Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Level Fine But Oil Light Has Come On
Oct 21, 2014
So I was waiting in line at a drive through, because Fast Food is the breakfast of champions. And suddenly my Oil Light started blinking. It beeped, then blinked. It didn't stay on solid.
So I figured I was suddenly low on oil. I then noticed my engine temp was pegged to the max. So I abandoned my Egg McMuffin (Not an easy choice by the way) and I pulled out of line into a parking spot and shut down my engine.
I gave it a few moments to cool down and checked the oil level. In the past my oil light has come on if I was low on oil and a 1/2 quart or so was all I needed. But after 20 minutes of cooling down, I checked the oil level and it was fine. Not even close to low.
I made some calls, talked to some people, ate a McMuffin and checked the level again. It was still good. So I restarted the car now that it was totally cooled down. It warmed up fine, right to normal temp, no overheating, no oil light and all seemed well. So I drove it home (About 12 miles) without issue.
Also, Prior to this issue (within a couple months) I switched to Synthetic Blend. And it may just be a coincidence, but my AC also failed about 3 days ago.
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I removed my washer fluid reservoir and saw that I can just twist together the wires and it would keep my light off. That lasted a few days. And now the light is on. I tried soldering them to see if it was a bad connection but still the light is still on. How I can get it off?
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Oil level is fine. Doesn't appear to be sludgy. I want to check the pressure but when I looked under the motor to find the sending unit I could see one that had a white wire running from it. I need clarification on where and which place to hook up to. If the pressure is fine what indicates a good pressure? Should I replace the sending unit? oil pressure switch? oil pump? The book I bought didn't have but one picture, black and white wasn't that useful.
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I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
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I've got some problems going on with my 2001 VR6 Jetta. I was driving home from my way to work this evening and all of a sudden the indicator light came on and told me to stop and check the coolant level. Within about three minutes the car was already up to about 200. I pulled over to a gas station and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. So I began to pour coolant in the reservoir and fill it up I notice I was pouring a lot of coolant so I went to the hood looked on the driver side below the bumper and water/cool was pouring out everywhere. I inspected as many radiator hoses as I could and did not find any cracks. The water seem to be pouring out from around the thermostat housing. My question would be since I don't know whole lot about cars would they crack thermostat housing because you need to have this problem?
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I just got done with a complete engine rebuild on my 02 1.8t jetta, had everything hooked back up and went to start it for the first time and it wouldn't. I went back looking for loose connections, nothing. Worked and banged my head for a day or two, I had fuel and spark but couldn't get it to fire. Finally I "choked" the intake to see if it was getting too much air and it fired right up. I unplugged my map sensor giggles and it starts up perfectly. I then hooked everything back up and what do you know it starts up and runs fine, but if I plug the sensor back in it kills the motor after about 10 seconds of running and won't start until I unplug the map again.
Car runs and drives but wont boost over wg pressure but that's probably because sensor itself is unplugged. I just wanna know what could cause it besides the sensor itself being bad. I ordered a new one waiting for it to get here (hoping it fixes the problem).. And I'm talking map (manifold absolute pressure) not maf (mass air flow), just in case people are confused.
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2002 Jetta GLS 1.8T (engine stock except diverter valve) 171k miles
It's done this a couple times now. Both while raining out/high humidity. Prior to this, I could hear the pump "growling". Sounded like maybe starting to go. You could hear it prime when opening the door or turning the key forward but would stay sounding like that even when the car was started. Without the radio, you can hear the pump running.
1st time- The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit a few minutes, turned key, heard it prime,tried again, started right up like there wasn't an issue and I couldn't hear the pump this time while the car was running.
2nd time-The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit for an hour, opened door (couldn't hear prime), checked fuse 28 (good). Figured wth, let's try anyways. Turned key, couldn't hear prime, started right up. WTF. cold idle normal (1000-1200rpm), light revs to 3000 ish normal. Turned off car, let sit for a minute. Turned key, heard prime, car started without issue and I couldn't hear the pump again while the car was running.
My dad is thinking to replace the pump right away. Is there anything else to try? The relay is working... at least sorta. With the somewhat intermittent issue, where to start? Either way, relay or pump, I will be replacing fuel filter.
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
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The brake light came on randomly yesterday, flashing foe about 5 seconds, then shut off. Hasn't come on since, but I looked at the brake fluid resovior and the level is about .5cm (.2inches) below the "min" marker.
Can I just open the resovior, pour in the fluid, recap it and go? I remember hearing from someone that if you open the resovior cap at any time, air rushes in and you must bleed the entire system before you can drive again
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I took my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0 5 speed it a certified mechanic shop that I have used before. This scan show a speed sensor (which I already replaced) and the ECU. He said that the ECU is discontinued and that he could not do the repair.
The car will run fine for 10 minutes then will stall, wait 5 minutes and it will run again for 5-10 minutes stall and repeat the process. Question, what is involved with swapping the ECU with an identical numbered one from a junk yard? Also could swapping out my headlight assembly have any effect, this started to happen shortly after the new headlights were installed.
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I just bought a 2002 Jetta 2.0L with automatic trans and about 98000 miles on the odometer.It drove fine on a short test drive. It drove fine on a 45 min drive home after which I parked it for a short while (about an 60-90 mins.) Then I tried to restart it . It cranked fine but would not start. After 3 or 4 attempts I let it rest for a min and then it started. And the CEL came on.
This was a few days ago. Today I finally got a chance to scan it with these results:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 Running on Windows 7 x86
[URL] .....
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FR
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 4070
Software Coding: 00003
[Code] ....
I'm new to MK4's and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start. It looks to me like there's a problem with both the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor. But what to make of all the short to ground codes. Could they be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
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My brothers car is a 2000 VW Golf 2.0 that recently started starting rough in the morning, when the motor is cold it will struggle to even turn on and will act like its only running on like 2 or 3 cylinders for a second and most cases stall, he is having to pump the throttle to get it to even stay cranked until it all sudden just starts idling fine and it idles perfect but still acts boggy if you try to rev it right away as its warming up, after about 10 seconds of it idling the motor can be revved perfectly fine and you can turn the car off and it will start back up immediately..
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My sunroof opens and closes correctly. but when in the closed position it will be sunken into the cabin of the car a few MM not sealing to the body of the car tightly. how do I fine tune the sunroof to sit flush with the body when closed? some kind of adjustment screws?
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The cluster works fine in the car. MFA works. The immobiler does activate but my ecu has an immobilizer defeat so it doesn't kill the car. I'm not having any of the usual issues with cluster swaps. I'll get the immobilizer issue recoded later. My issue is with the fuel level indicator. I have half a tank of fuel and it is reading full. I've researched and found out the r32 has 2 fuel sending units and this may be where the problem is. If so is it a matter of re-adapting the cluster or is it slightly more complicated than that?
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I just posted how happy I have been with my 2004 GTI 1.8t, then something strange happened. I was coming up to a light at night, turned on my turn signal and hit the brakes. The engine stopped abruptly and then began running fine without a restart. It was only for a split second. The lights went out, car died and began to run again very quickly. I noticed later that the clock had changed to the wrong time. I have noticed that lately at night the headlights dim slightly when I brake. That's the only clue. New battery, Alternator checks out fine.
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The AC on our '04 RX330 has started acting up. Refrigerant level is fine. When the system works it's ice cold. It'll run more often than not, but occasionally the AC compressor just won't kick on. I searched the forum and found issues in other toyotas and lexus models with the magnetic clutch relay but for the life of me I can't find where that is on the RX. I also saw reference to an AC "servo" in another thread. What controls the AC compressor and what to check?
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Just did an oil change on the R32 and while the oil level looks fine (if anything a little high at the moment) we can't get the oil level warning icon to stop blinking on. I don't get it. We have level up to where the manual says it should be but the icon will not stop blinking on and off.
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My coolant level keeps dropping really low underhood and the light comes on on the dash, but I went and bought coolant, opened the hood, and the level was back to normal. Where is it all going? Should I add any when it's low if it's coming back? This just seems weird.
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4000 miles and I got the Check Oil Level light come on! I know it should not be on this early on. I have not had the 5k service yet. What oil I need to put in there to top it off till the oil change?
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About a month ago I noticed the coolant level looked a little low. I attributed it to the fact that the engine was warm after driving. Tonight the coolant light illuminated and the mfd states the level is low. Sure enough it's quite low.Is this normal for the R? I know my MK5 GTI burned oil like crazy. Should I be concerned?
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