Mine appears to be leaking where the rubber pipe meets the metal coupler. What actually secures the rubber to the metal? I will get a new 1 soon but will be a week or so as I'm all spent after a few other unnecessary car related items.
View 5 RepliesI was just outside next to my car and smelled gas. look under the car, and gas is leaking out of the tank where the neck meets the mass of the tank...I just filled up and topped off about 2 hours ago...is the neck connected to the rest as a separate piece, or is it just one big mold? really need to fix this or replace the tank before the leak gets any worse, or causes damage to anything else.
For reference, its an 03 GLi 24V....
Either one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
I have a 2011 F350 CC long box 4x4, with a 6.2, 93,000 km on it. I periodically get a P0420. I clear it and sometimes it comes back in 10 or 20 KM and sometimes it comes back in a couple hundred km. Been doing this for about 800 KM.
Yesterday I got an exaust leak at the joint where the exaust manifold meets the pipe beside the engine. Checked close, bolts appear intact, leak is on the outboard side blowing towards the frame. Looks like a gasket or donut seal failed.
I am wondering if the catalytic converter was plugged or restrictive, would this cause the P0420 and could back pressure from a restricted catalyitic converter cause the gasket to blow?
I was changing the engine coolant on my 2005 Prius today. When I went to fill up the tanks, I noticed a small pool of coolant right under the filler pipe. I thought I might have overfilled something, but when I jiggled the filler pipe, I heard an air leak. It looks like there is a bad seal between the filler pipe and the radiator. I also noticed that my coolant recovery tank was empty. I never noticed this before so I don't know if this issue is related.
View 12 RepliesSo the big rubber hose attached to my power steering reservoir is leaking and my mechanic told me to replace it. I went to a couple of different Autozone stores and they both couldn't identify the correct dimensions of it. They told me to take it out and then bring it to them. This is very hard for me since this is my only car and how to pull the bottom bit of the hose out from whatever it's attached to.
I've measured the length to be about 2.4 feet but I'm not sure on how thick it is. I've taken a pic of the hose here:
Ok I have an automatic 02 gti..the other night as I was driving home it started to overheat And fast..I had to stop about four times to get home so it can cool down a bit..the next morning I went to check for leaks but I didn't have any and my coolant level was good..I turned the car on and let it heat up and I noticed the fan didn't kick on..is the fan not turning on a good sign that it is bad? I ordered a timing belt kit from ecs which came with a new water pump and thermostat but I didn't get to switch everything out in time and now im stuck with a overheated engine..the only thing I did change was the coolant temp. Sensor because it was the easiest thing to change.
View 2 RepliesPutting a straight pipe from the cat back on 1.8T mk4? I was thinking going 2.5 inches from the cat back with a tip. But I wanna know how loud it is.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Jetta GL 2.0... For the past could of months I have had a mysterious oil problem. I constantly have to put oil in. I have changed it. Always put in the correct amount, right around 4qts. I have changed the head gasket, no leak there anyways and there still isn't a leak. I checked the exhaust and I'm not burning oil. I am completely stumped. What else could be happening to the oil? I just changed my oil about 1200 miles ago and I have already added another 2qts. That is just insane. I have gotten to the point where I am checking my oil every single time I drive to work and back, daily. I do all my own work and have never once noticed any leaks of any type. Something is sneaking by me though.
View 4 Replies98 Ford Escort SE... Was changing out fuel filter and noticed the bottom (filter sets upright) snap holder the broke. Would I be ok with just cutting off some of the metal line and adding flex/rubber and using clamps?
View 5 RepliesI have noticed that my car makes a hot rubber smell when under periods of extended boost. I live in CO and there are sections of road where, just to maintain highway speeds, my car will hit and hold 5psi as I motor up a mtn pass or very long/big hill...that could be a few miles with periods where it might just drop to 0 for a minute or two depending on traffic or a spot where things level out for a sec. (Downshifting doesn't really change this, only the rpm range...the hill/load stays constant)
Anyways, I don't notice this any other time. No visible oil leaks. The catch can is emptied. No smoke from engine or tailpipe. So I am fairly certain this is rubber I am smelling.
I am wondering if perhaps it's just the turbo getting hot enough to make the stock boost hose smell? It seems obvious to me that it is directly related to turbo heat. All searches I have done lead me to crayon smells or burnt oil...this is neither. Car runs fantastic otherwise, but this smell just sucks.
I recently put a fmic on my mk4 and a 3" dp... My question was : any kind or heat wrap on the down pipe or intercooler piping? I also didn't know if painting the ic pipes with ceramic paint would keep the temp down.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 1.8t Jetta with a rusted out flex pipe. The leak is causing a bad smell and also a lot of noise -- What's my best option to replace the downpipe (but also other parts if need be) without having to weld it?
View 6 RepliesFiancee's 04.5 GLI is leaking from the sunroof drain into the front passenger footwell.
The Tubes are clear, but the front passenger drain is leaking from the upper portion of the tube. I pour water down the drain and 90-95% comes out the door nipple. The other 5-10% comes down the Pillar, and then out the bottom of the glove box.
I know its coming out of the top of the drain, not the nipple at the door because I can visually see water drops inside of the pillar.
What if I make a small plug to close off the 1 corner of the drain? I understand the correct solution is to pull the headliner and reconnect it.
BUT with the holidays and chaos of this week, would a temporary solution be to close off the 1 hole? I'd do a small delrin or aluminum plug with an oring on a lathe real quic so its a water proof seal
OR if I plug it, will the water level rise too fast inside the sunroof and pour into the car? I don't know.I think the plug would be a safe solution.....
I can't seem to figure it out. I've been having a water leak in my gti. Here's the facts
-rear drivers side floor is soaked wet, nowhere else.
-I pulled up the carpet and carpet pad and wiped the floor dry.
- poured water in sunroof drains and didn't see any new moisture, water ran out of the drains on all 4 corners.
Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
View 14 RepliesAs shown in the photo, the metal pipe that runs behind the exhaust manifold is leaking coolant. I can't see the leak (obviously), but I can feel it with my hand (after getting burned on the exhaust!) It is NOT leaking from the right hand clamp of the metal pipe. How do I remove this pipe to inspect? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to it, or simply remove the right side clamp and some bolts?
View 15 Replies2002 Dodge Durango 6.9 R/T... I had my bearings replaced 3 weeks ago. And about 1 week later after 40 mins in stop and go traffic I started smelling this hot metal and rubber smell. Then my breaks got really tight when I pressed the paddle. Is this related to having my bearings replaced, what could be causing this to happen every time I am in the car 40 mins or more. It's happened 4 times now and the first time it started smoking. I'm really nervous to drive my truck in stop and go traffic.
View 3 RepliesSo I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
I have a '02 Jetta Wagon with 180k miles. The plastic coolant pipe on the side of the head had been weeping (as they do) and I decided to replace it last night. The pipe replacement went smoothly and uneventful. When I removed the pipe as usual a normal amount of coolant spilled from the head down onto the trans area. After the replacement, I hosed down the top of the tranny with the garden house. I then took the car out for a drive.
First thing I noticed that my CEL was off (it had been on for a small emissions leak) and that seemed odd. Then about quarter mile down the road I noticed she was not shifting. It would hit maybe 30 at 3000 rpm and just stay there. So I pulled over and turned her off and looked under the hood...all seemed well. Started it back up and the CEL comes on right away. I drive and still stuck in gear.
I get home and run a cheap CEL check and get 00281 and 00652. Which seems to be fault codes for the VSS G68 sensor. So I check my connectors, take apart and make sure they are clean and dry...all seems good. I clear the codes and start it up and codes are right back again and stuck in gear.
It is late so lat thing I do is check the resistance of the G68 and get pins 1-2 800ohm, pins 1-3 800ohm, pins 2-3 1600ohm. I also check pins on G38 and get 1000ohm there.