Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Knocking Noise While In Neutral - Bad Throw Out Bearing?
Feb 4, 2016
so lately I've been noticing a slight rattling/knocking noise coming from my car while it is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed it. When I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I've read that this could be a sign of a bad throw out bearing? Is this right? If it is the throw out bearing, how long can I expect until it completely craps out on me? It seems to only do it on cold starts and sometimes on the uneven ground. I figured I should start saving some money to have this done because I'm not comfortable doing it myself.
Some other questions I had is my car is a 24v VR6 and it has 144k original miles. The timing chains and guides have not been replaced (to my knowledge at least). I know that replacing the throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission and so does doing the lower timing chain. If I get my throw out bearing replaced, should I have them do the chains also since they are already in there? I have no noise coming from my chains at all so there are no signs that they are going bad. Also, should I have my clutch replaced while they are in there? Again, no signs of a bad clutch either.
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I have a '10 manual trans gti. Only 16k miles on it. When starting cold and on an incline/decline at a certain level of clutch play, the transmission emits an odd chirping/whirring noise. Aside from the noise, the transmission is butter.
I brought in into the shop to get inspected and was able to replicate the noise for the technician. His thought was a bad throwout bearing.
Here's where it gets interesting. They quoted me about $600 labor just to confirm the issue. Should it be the throwout bearing, the replacement would be covered under warranty. labor would also be included. However, if they found it to be a wear product it would obviously be on me and stupid expensive.
Some people also thought maybe the clutch plate fingers are slipping? (I don't know that much about cars..)
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I have a clicking binding noise while at idle, with the clutch out it goes away, when depressed its there. So, is this a bad throw out bearing? Clutches and flywheels?
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I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
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20thae with a UR 7lb flywheel and spec stage 3 clutch. Got rid of the dual mass flywheel and installed a lightweight flywheel and spec clutch now i have a god awful noise that is dead ringer for a throw out bearing noise. talked to the spec guy at waterfest today and he told me that the dual mass acts as a dampener and this just doesn't make any sense in my head. touch the clutch pedal in any gear at any speed and the noise disappears.. uy at spec said it was in the trans and the only option was to change for a thicker gear oil. p.s. i took out the clutch and everything back apart and measured everything is oem thickness and the throw out bearing is in good shape.
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My throw out bearing makes a faint chirping noise since I bought the car, but now that the weather has been in teens, it seems to be louder.
I was wondering if it is possible to grease the throw out bearing or something without dropping the transmission.
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Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
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Wondering how I would take the A/C pulley off to change the bearing or fix the chirp squeal it is making.
I have spun this pulley by hand and it is the culprit making the noise.
It has an inner pulley and an outer pulley(belt pulley). Both spin freely and are not bound up. Just want the terrible noise to go away.
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Whenever I let off the gas there's a rubbing/knocking noise under the car, the sound will slow down as the car slows down but as soon as i press the gas pedal it starts again, it also doesn't do it if I am stopped and in neutral and rev the engine not sure what this could be?
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Okay just installed a newer 24v into my existing 24v VR6 GTI both with 135k. I have heard the motor run before it was pulled and sold to which sounded fine. Upon receiving the motor I put new timing chains, guides, headgasket and new gaskets all around. The timing was right on the mark and I tightened everything up to torque spec and I'm getting this noise which sounds like it's from the timing cover area. A code just popped on which I'm going to scan as soon as I get my hands on one. The car was running great for about 20 minute and I shut it off then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and experiencing these scary noises. I tried pulling each individual coil with no results to get the noise away. What could this be?
[URL] .....
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WRD Coilovers on my MK4 GTI. I finished my install this evening, and on my first test drive I noticed a knocking noise in the rear. I believe it is the springs sitting a little loose. The front of the car is sitting a bit lower than the rear, so I believe most of the weight is shifted towards the front, therefore making the springs kinda free float? I jacked her up after the drive and kinda gave the springs a wiggle and they have a tiny bit of play, enough to hear the spring kinda TING against the perch. I suppose I'm going to raise the front a bit to try and distribute the weight more evenly.
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2001 vr6 manual... I have a popping noise that comes from my suspension. it is in the front, and it has gradually gotten worse over the last month or so. It used to happen when i back out of my drive way only, but now it happens when accelerating from a stop, quickly braking or turning at low speeds. Recently its getting worse and i can start to feel it in my steering wheel sometimes. It doesn't feel like a wheel bearing. Is it bushings? Tie rod? CV Joints? Strut Mount?
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Mk4 12v vr6 afp. 170k ish. No real mods except a cleaned up bay. Was death knocking LONG before I started the bay. Probably 6k miles. My car knocks/rattles bad in low rpm but promptly stops all noise at 4k and up. Makes the noise in any gear but only when throttle is applied. Even does it when revved up in neutral. No CEL other than one explained later.
Suspecting wrist pins as con rod bearings are brand new (replaced for no reason they were fine) and i removed head and no problems were found. Lifters tick a bit but that's all. Cleaned and put back with new headgasket. Shined up the pistons of course. Timing chains also done. <10k miles on oil pump. I even tried taking the shifter rod completely out and driving to verify if that was the rattle and no change. What could be left mechanically?
I was afraid the noise was preignition because I was getting codes for knock sensor out of range, so I replaced the knock sensors multiple times each, coil pack, wires, new ngk bkr5e plugs gapped correctly, fuel filter and pump. Have ran multiple tanks of premium 94 from different stations as well.
The ecu pulls timing back to 0 btdc and it is still knocking so I just decided that the knock sensors are picking up a mechanical knock rather than pinging. Only thing left is wrist pins or piston slap. Maybe injectors causing a lean condition?
Here's a pic of my car for attention ....
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I have a 1998 Ford F150, Manual transmission. It has set for 1 year. Upon driving it for the first time yesterday, it gradually came to a stop. The clutch never smelled hot or appeared to slip. Today I took the inspection cover off and found a rather large nest has been built in the clutch and pressure plate. My question is could this nest cause the throw out bearing from allowing the pressure plate to make proper contact with the clutch. The truck will move in 1st gear and in reverse as long as there is no resistance against the truck.
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my P has recently developed a knocking noise coming from the front right when I go over a pothole. My first guess was a worn anti-roll bar drop link, but I've just taken the drop link off and it looks absolutely perfect. (I noticed that they have updated this part since my last 2008 P which had aluminium inserts in the rubber bush and easily distorted - now they have a stainless steel insert.)
It sounds like the "clunk" comes from high up on the front right suspension. I have looked at all the bushes on the arms and they look fine. If this was a "traditional" car I would have guessed that the top suspension mount bearing had failed, but am I right in thinking that the P doesn't have one of these bearing mounts ?
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So, I'm having this weird knocking noise on front left (drivers) side. It appears when I'm accelerating and stops immediately when i press clutch.. The noise gets stronger if i accelerate fast and gets faster, faster i go. Surprisingly the noise stops when i lift my car up and starts again at my drive height. Could it be driveshaft joints? And which one more likely? Outer maybe?
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I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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Chasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
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I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
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2005 Jetta. My passenger side door emits the most high pitched, eye-gougingly disturbing noise when opening. I don't have any wd40 handy, would it be okay to just spread dome Mag1 wheel bearing grease over the hinge? Might be a stupid question, but that won't damage anything right?
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Not sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
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