Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Knocking Noise When Installed New Motor
Jun 8, 2014
Okay just installed a newer 24v into my existing 24v VR6 GTI both with 135k. I have heard the motor run before it was pulled and sold to which sounded fine. Upon receiving the motor I put new timing chains, guides, headgasket and new gaskets all around. The timing was right on the mark and I tightened everything up to torque spec and I'm getting this noise which sounds like it's from the timing cover area. A code just popped on which I'm going to scan as soon as I get my hands on one. The car was running great for about 20 minute and I shut it off then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and experiencing these scary noises. I tried pulling each individual coil with no results to get the noise away. What could this be?
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I installed my sway on saturday and it went smoothly. The bushings were greased up, bolts were torqued to spec, nothing was rubbing or touching in anyway. Now I am getting a knocked noise coming from the rear passenger side. after driving it for a day or so i check under the car to make sure nothing loosened up and everything was just how it was when i installed it. What the issue could be, but the noise is really annoying.
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My girlfriends 2010 Golf 2.5 is worrying me. We went on a weekend vacation to Boston so the car sat for 3 days. I go to turn it on tonight and it just immediately stalls. I was like okay thats weird so I turn it back on and instead of stalling, the RMP gauge keeps dipping and then going back up and theres a strange knocking noise, so I turn it off and then decide to try again. Same thing happens so I go to open the hood and the noise is pretty loud. I noticed a strange smell outside the car while the motor was running, but I can't really explain it. So I turn it off for about 2 minutes and then start it again and its just back to normal, I'm so confused. I drove it about 5 miles and it seems fine, aside from idling slightly rougher than normal. What this could be?
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Whenever I let off the gas there's a rubbing/knocking noise under the car, the sound will slow down as the car slows down but as soon as i press the gas pedal it starts again, it also doesn't do it if I am stopped and in neutral and rev the engine not sure what this could be?
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WRD Coilovers on my MK4 GTI. I finished my install this evening, and on my first test drive I noticed a knocking noise in the rear. I believe it is the springs sitting a little loose. The front of the car is sitting a bit lower than the rear, so I believe most of the weight is shifted towards the front, therefore making the springs kinda free float? I jacked her up after the drive and kinda gave the springs a wiggle and they have a tiny bit of play, enough to hear the spring kinda TING against the perch. I suppose I'm going to raise the front a bit to try and distribute the weight more evenly.
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2001 vr6 manual... I have a popping noise that comes from my suspension. it is in the front, and it has gradually gotten worse over the last month or so. It used to happen when i back out of my drive way only, but now it happens when accelerating from a stop, quickly braking or turning at low speeds. Recently its getting worse and i can start to feel it in my steering wheel sometimes. It doesn't feel like a wheel bearing. Is it bushings? Tie rod? CV Joints? Strut Mount?
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Mk4 12v vr6 afp. 170k ish. No real mods except a cleaned up bay. Was death knocking LONG before I started the bay. Probably 6k miles. My car knocks/rattles bad in low rpm but promptly stops all noise at 4k and up. Makes the noise in any gear but only when throttle is applied. Even does it when revved up in neutral. No CEL other than one explained later.
Suspecting wrist pins as con rod bearings are brand new (replaced for no reason they were fine) and i removed head and no problems were found. Lifters tick a bit but that's all. Cleaned and put back with new headgasket. Shined up the pistons of course. Timing chains also done. <10k miles on oil pump. I even tried taking the shifter rod completely out and driving to verify if that was the rattle and no change. What could be left mechanically?
I was afraid the noise was preignition because I was getting codes for knock sensor out of range, so I replaced the knock sensors multiple times each, coil pack, wires, new ngk bkr5e plugs gapped correctly, fuel filter and pump. Have ran multiple tanks of premium 94 from different stations as well.
The ecu pulls timing back to 0 btdc and it is still knocking so I just decided that the knock sensors are picking up a mechanical knock rather than pinging. Only thing left is wrist pins or piston slap. Maybe injectors causing a lean condition?
Here's a pic of my car for attention ....
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so lately I've been noticing a slight rattling/knocking noise coming from my car while it is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed it. When I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I've read that this could be a sign of a bad throw out bearing? Is this right? If it is the throw out bearing, how long can I expect until it completely craps out on me? It seems to only do it on cold starts and sometimes on the uneven ground. I figured I should start saving some money to have this done because I'm not comfortable doing it myself.
Some other questions I had is my car is a 24v VR6 and it has 144k original miles. The timing chains and guides have not been replaced (to my knowledge at least). I know that replacing the throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission and so does doing the lower timing chain. If I get my throw out bearing replaced, should I have them do the chains also since they are already in there? I have no noise coming from my chains at all so there are no signs that they are going bad. Also, should I have my clutch replaced while they are in there? Again, no signs of a bad clutch either.
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Car doesn't seem to want to start when warm.
1.8T AWD, 02J swap, no clutch switch (I can start without pressing the clutch).
Cold start, cranks and starts on a dime, after the car warms up and I've turned off the car, say went for a quick grocery run, the car won't start afterwards.
No cranking, nothing. Fuel pump primes, then not a sound. Everything on the dash lights up just fine. No starter motor noise, no clicking.... nada...
Fairly new starter motor pulled from a junkyard donor. Can't think of anything else.
Last time I got stranded in a parking lot, I gave it a few whacks with a tire iron and the car started just fine. Could it be a bad solenoid?
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So, I'm having this weird knocking noise on front left (drivers) side. It appears when I'm accelerating and stops immediately when i press clutch.. The noise gets stronger if i accelerate fast and gets faster, faster i go. Surprisingly the noise stops when i lift my car up and starts again at my drive height. Could it be driveshaft joints? And which one more likely? Outer maybe?
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I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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I've had this strange knocking noise ever since may coming from my motor. I thought, it might go away if i push the car a little. But it's been 6 months, and the thing is still going hard. What I'm experiencing is kind of a knocking noise, something akin to marbles being shaken up in some kind of jar, and it is only at partial throttle. Starts at 2000 rpms and goes all the way until redline. What it could be? Engine sounds perfectly fine at idle, power is still there. MPG's are the same... I've also read a couple threads that indicate that it could be my intake manifold, I am really not that good with cars, shameful but i admit.
Btw while i was browsing found a repair manual on the net [URL] ....
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I have a touchscreen that the dealership provided me but with the catch that I've got to install it myself, pretty sure it has something to do with the state the previous stereo was taken out, all I'm left with are a cluster of wires none of which I know are for what.
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I have an 04 F150 Lariat with the 5.4. I get alot of noise out of the top of the motor. I hear lots of stories of sludge issues, is that the problem or do I need to have the motor gone through? the knock is not horrible but when the motor is warm the noise is pretty apparent!
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I finished installing an auto out of a 1999 beetle into my 2000 golf. I used the beetle TCM now it wont shift out of 3rd. If I manually start in first it will shift up to 3rd but nothing past 3rd. I had it scanned with a generic scanner and these are the codes. P1780, P1783, P0725. I researched the heck out of this and I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to take it and have a vag com hooked up to make sure the ecm and the new tcm are talking? It seems others have had these issues and I thought it might be solenoids but that's not what's coming up.
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I have a 2000 celica gt... My motor is making a loud knocking noise at all time.. The other day it completely stop working. It started back after a couple of attempts... I think I need a new motor but idk... What kind of motor will fit and how much or what can I get for the car if i sale it..
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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Last Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
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Just today I noticed my car boosting to around 1.2bar instead of the usual 1.4bar. The car is boosting to around 1.2 then dropping off to around a bar.
The only thing that I did was install a forge splitter. I presumed that the splitter valve was the issue and promptly put my 007p back on but still had the same issue.
During the process of adjusting the splitter valve I got limp mode several times. I much prefer the 007p and will be keeping that and selling the splitter. What may have happened?
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After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
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So the other day I replaced my N75 valve and upgraded my DV to the Forge 007. For some reason the turbo doesn't spool like it did before, it's lost it's pep.
I've tried the Yellow and Green springs, also I tried them with the shim too. No luck. The car got turbo back exhaust, intake, and stage one program.
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