My car battery keeps draining when my car is off, lights off, everything is off....... the only thing that ive figured out is that if i pull the fuse to my radio, it wont die, but sometimes if i dont pull the fuse it still wont die......
View 15 RepliesI have a mk4 jetta 2.0l with about 130,000 miles. The issue with my car is that is has a rough idle and dies out completely when I put the car in neutral. I currently have codes 16839- EVAP system leak detected, 16487- Mass air flow sensor, 17978 - Engine start blocked by immobilizer, and 16795 - secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. The secondary air pump was taken off the car before i bought it, so i do not think that code is responsible. Also all of my spark plugs and wires are new. I think the issue is either with my maf sensor or with a vacuum line. I have tried cleaner my maf and also unplugging it, and the car still has problem. Unfortunately i do not know where all of my vacuum line are. I have only checked the two the go into the sensor on towards the firewall. The one has vacuum, but the one coming for the egr valve did have any vaccum even when i tried with my other line on it. Im not sure if this is the issue, and if it would cause my car to die.
View 6 RepliesI'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
Car shut off while driving. Saw it wasn't getting fuel. Replaced fuel pump. Got fuel. It will crank. Still won't start. Replaced crankshaft position sensor. Still no luck. No battery. No luck. Timing belt is perfectly fine. I checked the ecm relay and it seems to be working. It won't get a spark. It will try to crank but will not get a spark in any of the cylinders..
View 18 RepliesToday my car for one of the many times has shut off while i was braked at a red light. Car will be running fine and then i see the cluster shut off, car bog down and then the ignition is killed. I then have to put the car in park and turn over the car. Happened about a hand full of times over the past year. Why it might be happening? Possibly fuel line replacement?
In addition, the car also is having an electrical issue somewhere that makes the car shut off the ecu and restart it. From that, the cluster resets the time , the trip counter resets to zero with the radio shutting off completely, and wiping the AM/FM presets. I believe this could be from a short somewhere in the alpine stereo system the car has and the possible LED floor lights that are tapped into the 12V Cigarette lighter in the dash.
04' Golf Gl 2.0L, Auto, 87xxx miles.
I have a 03 jetta 1.8t the asr light comes on and stays on and i cant shut it off if i turn the car off it goes off and then like 10 min later it comes on. Why its happening
View 5 RepliesSo I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
View 5 RepliesSo I was driving down the road today and my car just shut off. No turning back at all. It is still trying to start. Battery is fine, terminals are fine, it acts like it wants to start but won't start. It's been running fine for a long time now. I think it may be the fuel pump. I'm going to take the fuel line out when I get home and see if it's getting fuel.
Door doesn't make the buzzing sound when you open the door. The car is also on air ride...
I have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L. I was pulling out of stop light and the car sputtered for a second and shut off, and now will not start. I thought I heard a clicking noise coming from under the dash or the engine bay right before it shut off. The engine turns over and cranks fine, I replaced the fuel pump relay and checked the fuse(28) and both are good, I can hear the fuel pump run when the key is in the on position. I swapped out the coil pack and checked the injector fuse(32), both are also good. I pulled the line off of the end of the fuel rail and it's getting gas to the rail. The immobilizer light is not on but the EPC light is lit when I turn the key on, I can't remember if it was lit or not before starting when the car is running normal.
View 6 RepliesMy 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
View 9 RepliesSo I am having this weird electrical issue when connecting VCDS. Every time VCDS begins to scan, the door seems to receive an unlock command and then the car will stall and shut off. I have tried doing different things but no luck. Possibly a bad ground somewhere? Also, when the car stalls out, VCDS then picks up a few codes. I can clear the codes just fine but every time this happens, the codes return. Here are the VCDS codes:
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-018-AEG.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 018 J
Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9.2 AT V06
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 00066
VCID: 2959A211D3043F762A-4AE4
8 Faults Found:
17633 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 1 (N30)
P1225 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17634 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 2 (N31)
P1226 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17635 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32)
P1227 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17636 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 4 (N33)
P1228 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17859 - Secondary Air Injection System
P1451 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17829 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112)
P1421 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17833 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1425 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
It seems that only the engine controller is being affected. Assuming that the car doors run under the same controller?
I believe this fuse has to do with radio and convenience options? 2004 mk4 GLI 1.8t. A few weeks back, the fused popped. I replaced it, and drove fine for a few more weeks. Shut off randomly, so I put a fuse in, try to start, it cranks like usual, but doesnt start. Tried with several different 20a fuses. It pops all of them the second I crank the car. Obviously there is a short somewhere. Where? Or know where fuse 37 goes?
View 2 RepliesI went out to my car this morning and the fans were both running full speed. That's before I even got to it then they carried on doing so when I started the car and still ran after I shut it off. I have stopped them by pulling the 30A battery top fuse for them but what has caused it and how I can fix it? Preferably not too expensively as I am moving house next month typically.
The car is a 2003 1.8t GTI with climatronics ....
I got an 03 vw gti. I was driving to work and car just shut off and hasn't start ever since. Check my fuses and relays there all good. I thought it would be my fuel pump so took the old one back to auto parts and got a new one. That didn't work. I also just replace my crank sensor cause my car won't crank at all, but it back fires after the first attempt to start it and i did some research and ppl had that same problem and said it was the crank sensor but that didn't work either.
View 6 RepliesSo I bought a 2004 Jetta with the 2.0 engine yesterday. I got the car pretty cheap and was told that the issue with the A/C was because it was low on freon. I've never owned a Volkswagen before, but I assume A/C units are all similar. So I go to put in some freon into the low end of unit. I get about half of a 12 oz can or so in and I hear a loud Psst or shooting of the propellant. I look down and it looks like the the side of the compressor shot the oil filter with the coolant. I'm not sure if I sprung a leak of if it was just a valve that releases when there is too much pressure. I've only driven it for about 10-20 mins since and I can still occasionally hear the Psst sound. It is 96 degrees in my area if that makes a difference or not?
Some other information, I noticed that the compressor kicks on, but only for like a second or two and then it shuts off for about 15 seconds or so and then repeats itself. What could be wrong?
If I have the switch set for the lights to turn on when I open the doors, they don't turn off when the doors are shut they just stay on all of the time. Also, sometimes they don't work at all and sometimes they do. My 12v outlet doesn't work either but I am guessing it's the fuse..
View 2 RepliesWas driving just a few hundred feet up the road to local mini mart. On the way home after pulling out of the shop, my battery light flickered once and twice before staying on. I circled around the block to see if it would go away, but it was still on when I parked in my driveway. I noticed a ticking noise in the engine bay, but decided to turn it off.
About 10 minutes later, I turned the car back on. Battery light still on, noise still evident in the bay. I popped the hood and it's coming by the serpentine belt. That seemed to be running fine over there and couldn't see anything that looked out of the ordinary. I went in the car to rev up the engine a bit and turn on my lights, and that's when the symptoms got weirder. My RPMs jumped to about 1,000 and stayed there (even when I let on the gas a bit); my blowers would work (but not the screen showing the temp); CD player turned off; and I got a cluster full of lights on my dash. The car would idol rough when turning lights on and off.
It eventually shut off, and now there is no crank or nothing. All lights still work, alarm works, but no turn over or clicking. I'm going to try and get it jumped when able to, but I'm not sure what the problem could be. I can't find the exact paperwork, but I had the alternator replaced at around 85,000 miles.
Car Specs:
2003 GTI VR6 24V
110,000 miles
So last night, I went to close my car door and it just "Bounced" when I went to shut it. It did this a few times and then I got it closed. So I left it until this morning and now it won't close at all and just bounces. I believe the latch is broken. Any quick fixes to this?
View 2 RepliesMy MK4 golf has the rear passenger door shut, cannot be opened from inside or out. The outside handle has no tension, just floppy.
I managed to take the card off, even though I cannot open the door.
So my issue is if I keep dismantling til I get to the door lock, is there any simple way to open the door ? I've seen lots where people can change the lock if the door opens but can it be opened if the door is closed or do I somehow have to smash the lock ?