Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Just Did Spark Plugs Now Check Engine Light On
Sep 5, 2015
I just did the plugs and now the check engine light is on?
View 6 RepliesI just did the plugs and now the check engine light is on?
View 6 RepliesI recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
I have a 2000 Jetta 2.8 VR6 (the 6-cyl) with 128k miles and I have oil on my spark plugs, only on one bank of the motor (the bank closest to the bumper, if that makes any difference). I am aware that it is most likely a leaking or worn out valve cover gasket, and I have a replacement and am prepared to replace it. What I need to know, and I can't find this exact part anywhere, is do I also need to replace the spark plug tube seals??? The gasket I ordered did not come with any tube seals, I can't find this part on any auto parts website at all, nor have I been able to locate anything useful on this, or any other, website. I know the 1.8 has plug tube seals, and they come with the gasket, but does the 2.8 also require tube seals? I imagine it would, but I just don't know.
View 2 RepliesI got the APR ECU Tune in June along with VW Racing air intake. Car runs great except... the engine is knocking under full load. The guy who did the install heard it right away but I just thought he was trying to up sell me. He suggested new spark plugs.
Well it's two (three?) months later and I've come to accept that I can't drive it in the 91 program anymore (I paid extra for the ability to switch programs - lucky!!). I was switching back and forth between 91 and stock and I can hear the difference.
Are spark plugs the likely fix, and how do I choose the right ones for my Mark VI Golf R? "one step cooler"??
So for the past few weeks my check engine light has been on. I have a mechanic friend that scanned the computer and says i have a running lean code.... says it could be anything. So i have been driving the car since and now the epc light and drive train lights are coming on... car revs up and down and sounds like is going to die... got the car scanned and says something about the throttle position sensor... before all the lights started coming on i got my fuel pump replaced..... could a faulty fuel pump be the cause? I had my mechanic, clean the throttle body and it ran good for a few days... now the problem is back... I have a 2004 1.8 gti. Do i have to replace the throttle position sensor? Fuel pump again? New throttle body again? I read somewhere on here that a guy replaced some wires near the ECM and the problem went away...
View 7 RepliesSo I get back from being stationed in Korea for the past 2 years. I get my car out of storage and the check engine light is on. I scan it and get P0601. I do some searching on the Tex and see that it's the ecu. I'm tuned on APR. the question is can I take it to a local APR dealer here in Houston and get the ecu looked at?
View 6 RepliesI'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
I was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?
Getting an emissions code. I deleted the emissions with the delete kit. Used the plug in resistors that came with the kit that is supposed to keep the cel off. Here's the code.
P1426 evap emission system purge control valve circuit open .
So I heard from a friend you can use a 330ohm 10w resistor to bypass a check engine light cause from deleting the evap and SAI? I have an 03 gti 1.8t
The buddy that told me drives an 01 gti vr6. He wired the resistor to the evap sensor and it cleared the evap code but now Has a code for the SAI. Any information on how to do this to my car successfully (1.8t)?
MK4 GTi - My check engine light came on a few days ago and when I checked it, it pulled code P0420.
Just this morning, the check engine light went away.
Is this a common issue? Or should I go get it checked just in case?
So my gf's check engine light on her 01 Golf flashes once in a while, and it misfires. But the thing is, it doesn't stay on, and it's once in a while (like once or twice a week). She has new spark plugs, and new wires. I have a feeling it's the coil pack, but I really don't know if it needs to be replaced until the check engine light actually stays on.
View 14 RepliesJust a few days ago I was driving and I noticed as I went over 35 mph my car would stutter and the check engine light would start flashing. And when I slowed back down the car drove fine. I'm wondering what the problem could be? Feels like the car is losing power. Car is currently at 119k miles.
View 1 Replies2004 VW jetta 2.0 ... So my vehicle stalled on me i replaced the battery, the alt, and then when i started it after installing the new alternator it didn't sound right so i checked it out and saw a spark plug wire was in very bad condition and was causing a spark where the spark plug and the spark plug wire connect so i bought a new set of spark plug wires and swapped the old ones for the new ones. Now when i start my vehicle the check engine light is blinking and the car definitely does not sound right. i am positive i did everything correct when swapping the spark plug wires but i am lost as to what could be the issue.
View 1 RepliesI recently got a 2001 Mk4 GTI from carter Volkswagen in Seattle with 113k on it last friday (it did come with the car fax). I drove it back home to Wenatchee and it ran fine and is still running fine... I think. Today as i was coming home from school the check engine light came on when i was in 3rd gear and the car just wasn't driving as smooth as it was the first day (it felt as if i was driving over really really small bumps or like something was loose and was moving around a lot).
When I would get to a red light and be in first gear the light went off but it came back on as i would shift into 3rd and stayed on when i got into 5th. It recently had its oil changed at 112,000 miles. Also when the car is just idling the tachometer is going up and down a little bit, it is idling at about 600-700 rpms. I got this car because i didn't want to have a car with problems any more (I had an 88 Isuzu Trooper before).
Just installed a short Ram intake on my 2000 Vw Jetta 1.8t. Had the Intake for about 250 miles and now the check engine light came on. Just pulled the code p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. Is this just cause there is more air going through the MAF sensor?
View 11 RepliesI just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)
2005 Golf TDI... I'm due for a smog check, and of course, in the last few weeks I've been getting some check engine lights intermittently. I'd rather take care of the problem before trying to smog. Anyway, here are the codes.
Confirmed
P0674 - Cylinder 4 glow plug circuit/open
P0673 - Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit/open
Pending
P0101 - Mass or Volume air flow "A" circuit range/performance
To be honest, I haven't learned all that much about my Golf TDI. Just normal maintenance. So, I don't know where to start.
I have a 2001 jetta 2.0 engine with only 130k on it. Yesterday I replaced the battery and everything was fine but then today as I started it up to go to work I started moving and the check engine light was flashing for catalyst damage. I heard that sometimes coil packs will pop if you change the battery.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 jetta 1.8t. Check engine light recently came on and the code is a PO1128. I replaced the maf sensor and that did nothing but make the car run worse. I've check for vacuum leaks and found a busted line at the egr valve, fixed the line, reset the code only to have the check engine light come back on with the same code. I am at a loss now.
View 3 Replies