Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Jacked Up The Car But Front Wheel Didn't Lift At All
Sep 19, 2015
Feel this is a bit stupid, but whatever. I was jacking up the front wheel of the car today on the pinch welds (one part of it got super bent) and while the jack was almost maxed out, my front wheel didn't go anywhere. I must've had almost a foot gap between the wheel and the fender..
Took some pictures of where I jacked, and the suspension/wheel of the car. What it could've been or how I'm supposed to properly lift it so the wheel comes up?
can see the pics here: [URL].....
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One of the caliper does not fully retract when I don't push the brake, the wheel is hard to rotate when the car is on the lift.
I pretty sure it is the square ring the problem.
I know that those square ring worth only a couple of bucks.
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I noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
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So I installed coilovers a short while ago and now I need an alignment bad (obviously), but when I took it to get aligned, I was told my car is too low to drive up onto the lift , so I was wondering if I would be able to adjust my coils to a better height and then after the alignment just drop them back down a bit, it won't be too major of a drop back down but I just want to make sure I wouldn't be wasting my money. There is a place up the road that will do the alignment at my current height but for a pretty steep price considering how low my car is.
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I removed the old muffler but it was severed at the pipe so there was no issue getting it over the rear cross member. I dropped the center brace to remove the resonator from cat back.
My question is, is it possible to install a new OEM rear muffler without a lift? I have stands but I do not know of I can get it high enough, or if I even need to get it that high? Not sure the bend of the pipe before it meets the resonator.
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I bought a gonzo tune with no lift shift and launch control. I backfire during the launch but not when I no lift shift. It only happens once in a while. Mind you my friend had the same car with same upgrades and his was working better. Both gonzo tuned. What could be the issue?
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My car is a 99.5 Jetta 2.0 5 speed. Recently it had developed a squeak coming from the front right wheel. It speeds up/slows down based on vehicle speed. I jacked up the car to examine and once the wheel was off I checked everything and it appeared fine. Wheel bearing, tierod, and ball joint all replaced a few months ago, and brake pads and rotors replaced a week ago.
With the wheel off I spun rotor and it did still make the noise. That being said it rules out the possibility of anything to do with the wheel or any bushings. Obvious answer would be the brakes but they are brand new and appear fine. Anything missing?
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I just bought 07 es350 the outside left front door lock button is jacked up, can I get the rubber separately.
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I bought my 2010 Golf about a month ago (Certified Pre-Owned) and the air conditioner is already jacked up. I didn't notice it right away because it has been colder here and no use for it until now. I first noticed that the air conditioner was not blowing cold air at all! It felt almost like the heater was on, even with the knob turned all the way to the left, AC button pressed, set on 4. I was driving on the interstate and after hitting 70mph, the cold air miraculously cut on. That was too good to be true, the next time I drove the car, it was hot air again.
The worst part was when I was driving one day in rush hour traffic. The cold air started working again, so I turned the knob to 3 to test it out. In less than 30 seconds, my car flat out DIED on the interstate! I was able to get it started right back up, but that was still pretty freaky (and I drive an automatic...it's not like I just stalled it or something)
I took it back to the dealership to have it checked out and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. No fault codes in the computer or anything! My air conditioner still isn't blowing cold air (in fact the air is colder if the AC button is turned off) and I am pissed.
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My front right wheel began clicking a few weeks ago. It clicks under these circumstances...
- Usually when the car first starts rolling from a long stop. Usually stops after driving for a bit but does come back sometimes
- from 5-50mph (stops at high speeds)
- cornering does not seem to change the clicking. If anything it stops it rather than makes it worse
- clicking is in rhythm with wheel speed
- noise stops when brakes are applied
I'm thinking it's either a cv joint or I just replaced my brakes maybe it's the brake clip came out and is hitting the inside of the rotor?
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What are my options here.. One tech said he can pull it down and weld on new flex pipes..
any advice with do.. CEL is on and B1 S1 is popping up. if you lift the hood you can hear the leak in front of the firewall.. and smell it.. ???
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So I just jacked up my car to check out how bad the bushings are on the control arms and the tire rod. They're bad. So I'm going to get the suspension stage 1 refresh kit from ECS.
Well I went to spin the passenger side wheel and I noticed that I can tilt it back and forth slightly, I checked the other side and couldn't do the same thing. I just got both wheel bearings replaced by a shop and I'm hoping its not the hub. This is just a CV joint or bushings or if it's actually the hub???
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I just purchased a 2004 Golf 2.0 for my daughter. The car seems to be in good shape but it does have a few problems being used and 153k miles on it.
1 - a/c switch doesn't light up and the blower does not come on. No airflow thru the vents at all. I Googled this and it sounds like blower motor and/or resistor?
2 - when using key remote to lock doors the right side marker light sometimes stays on. I have to hit the lock/unlock 4-5 times for it to go out. Is this short?
3- Front left wheel bearing was replaced but the previous owner just did that one side. The front is making noise so I plan to do the right ASAP.
Anything else I should be watching for?
I had an 85 Golf - one of my favorite cars, bought this in the hopes this one would be as good to my daughter.
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Lowered my car yesterday. 23" FTG. I'm now hearing a clicking noise from my drivers side front wheel.. I mostly hear it when my foot is off the gas and I'm just coasting (usually at slower speed). Also, it gets louder (worse) and is accompanied by what sounds like a rubbing when I take turns.. Is it axle bind? Or should I be concerned?
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I'm not sure if my car is an R32 but it is a mkIV GTI V6. There is a small radiator in front of the front passenger wheel and air is ducted from the front air scoops into the radiator. What is it cooling? I searched for a transmission radiator but nothing came up. I can only speculate that it is to cool engine oil or transmission oil. Is that correct and if so what is it called?
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I have a 2003 Jetta Wagon with 49000 miles on it. I noticed that when turning at slow speeds (like taking turns in a parking lot) I hear a klunk coming from the area of the left front wheel, and I think I feel it through the steering wheel. Yesterday I was going around a hairpin turn at a shopping mall and heard two clunks. Driving straight it doesn't happen.
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VWVortex, so I've had some issues with my MK4 recently (go figure). It started with steering wheel getting intermittent and random jerks to the right after driving for about 20 minutes on the highway at any speed any gear but only at around 1/6 throttle. I needed to do front end maintenance anyway, so I replaced both complete LCA's with ECS Tuning's ply ones, went stage 2 BFI engine mounts, stage 2 BFI dogbone mount, both ball joints, both tie rods ends, both axles, and an alignment.
Now I'm getting a shimmy in the steering wheel starting at ~80mph. I know my wheels are slightly bent and are being replaced in the summer when the weather is warmer, but it wasn't doing this same shimmy prior to all this. Just the jerking. Could it be they messed up on the alignment? Its really getting on my nerves considering I've dumped a lot of money trying to fix this problem just to have something else pop up.
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I bought these wheels last summer from ECS Tuning - Alzor wheels for my Jetta. I haven't driven too much on them since I was deployed to Afghanistan for 9 months. I've been home 4 months. I think I have about 10k miles on them. The issue is that now one of them leaks. I took it in to be checked, thinking it was the tire. There is no rock rash, I haven't hit anything. The wheel leaks from the area that the spoke connects to the wheel base. There is no visible sign of a crack at all so I don't know what the heck is up. The paint looks fine from the spot it leaks from.
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I have a bad wheel bearing but on the highway my steering wheel shakes. It is only on the highway not down residential streets. I'm pretty sure it is the driver's side wheel bearing. I already balanced my wheels and everything.
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I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
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I'm a new Prius owner (only 500 miles) and have experienced a lot of issues so far. Today I got in my car and both front and rear windows were fogged up. I turned on both defoggers and the front window would not clear. I set the vent speed to high and could hear a noise like the air was blowoing, but it did NOT clear the front window - I had to clear it with a cloth so I could see.
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