Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Intermittent Stalling - MAF Sensor?
Feb 9, 2015
2000 Jetta 2.0. 140k miles. Cranked, but would not fire. Sprayed starter fluid... nothing. No spark. Checked fuel pump and fuel pump relay, all is well. I let it sit over night. I tried starting it, ran for 4 to 5 seconds shut off. Disconnected MAF sensor, it ran. Put in a new MAF sensor, back to cranking no fire. Let it sit over night, started up again. Tried to drive, stalled. Unpliged MAF sensor, now its running. Drove around parking lot. Afraid to take it out, don't want to be stranded.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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MKIV 1.8T. Basically the engine turns itself off for 2-5 seconds while driving (quite dangerous!!), then immediately starts back up. For that 2-5 seconds the car is coasting and slowing down. Gas pedal does nothing, but the once the engine comes back on it was as if nothing happened. No CELs or anything else to indicate something is wrong.
The problem appears to happen like most others, with gas 1/4 tank or less (sometime 1/3 tank or less), cruising between 60-75 mph. I've already replaced all spark plugs, new plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, and the Crank Position sensor. I haven't yet changed or cleaned the fuel pump, gas tank or MAF ...
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0l manual. When the car is running the rpms jump up and Down from about 300 rpm to 900 rpm and I guess that's why the car will stall out every time I press the clutch to stop. Also the car won't run with the MAF plugged in. If the MAF is plugged in it will drive but will not idle the car will just stall.
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So my 2.0 Golf GLS Automatic has been having a few small issues lately.. Started out with engine stalling out when put into into Reverse. I was told to swap out the TB so I did. Didn't fix issue, next I was told alternator, installed a new one & it didn't fix the issue... . I finally decided today to throttle up the RPM's when I put it in reverse & guess what it worked!!! No more vibrations no more stalling (For now anyway). But on the even brighter side it finally gave me codes!!! P0725, P1780, P0740, P1850, & P1544. I know it seems bad but I finally have something to work with!! Only bad thing that really concerns me is that now I feel like I may need a new tranny....
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I have this issue from time to time where I will be driving and my car will randomly stall itself out and shut off. what could be the issue?
2nd I have an issue while idling, where if I am idling I feel a slight vibration like it is about to stall.
3rdly How big of an offset can i have on rear wheels that are 18x8?
The aforementioned questions are regarding a 2004 GLI.
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I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
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It will randomly not want to keep running when I goto start it so I just rev for a min and then it's fine after that. It doesn't happen to often. 2003 Jetta 1.8t
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Well first the exact car I have. 99.5 Jetta 2.0 AEG. It all started with one loud backfire with a stall at a stop light while in neutral. After that it was random stalling and jerking while driving. So I checked my everything and all seemed well. I replaced spark plugs because they where fouled and nasty. Cables are good. They're near new and tested them with a multimeter. Next I checked my injectors and they are surprisingly very clean.
I had also ran seafoam prior to these problems a few weeks before it all started. Next step was new fuel filter. Old one was nasty and black stuff dripped out. That didn't work. So I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner. Nothing. Visually threre is nothing wrong under the hood. So today I changed the fuel pump. Went for a test drive all seemed well. Can out of the bank. Then it won't start. So I wait like normally. And it normally gets me home. Nothing. Will sometimes start but if I'm not holding the gas it dies. I don't know what to do. My only other thing I can think of is the coil pack.
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New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
[URL] .....
It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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My car shudders (headlights flicker, dash lights flicker, and car feels like it's choking/almost stalling) when I sit at an idle. Today it got super bad and the abs light flickered on and off when ever it would "shudder".
Live in so-cal where we just had heavy rain the last 2 days so I'm thinking it may be a wet ground somewhere but I'm not an electrician so I wouldn't know for sure.
Car info: 2.0 golf
Nothing done to it except straight pipe and intake...
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I need to know but I'm not near the car.
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My friend's Jetta was running fine. One day about to drive out of the driveway it started doing 2 things:
1. Felt like it lost power braking, just stopping by manual effort by pushing down pedal hard.
2. Engine stalling unless you keep the gas pedal depressed and holding the engine to about 3,000.
Car currently sidelined until this is fixed... Having the brakes go like that at the same time is strange so where to start. Brake fluid level is fine.
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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I have a 2001 GTI VR6 5 speed. It has an intermittent no start. When you turn the key on it will start as long as the EPC light was lit before cranking. If that light does not come on, it will not start. I also can't communicate with the ECU via the OBD2 connector if the EPC light does not come on. So I am assuming that the ECU/ECM is not getting power when this condition occurs. Is there an ECU relay that is possibly out? If so, what is its location?
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2.slow bev engine / 2004 golf gl / 105k miles
The car sat in a garage for 9 days. It had no problems before. Now I have a p0441 code that comes back after being cleared, and an intermittent gas cap light. Is there a typical problem that causes this?
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I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
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Over the past few weeks my 2000 Jetta GL has been occasionally been grinding on start up. The car starts fine, but it sounds like the starter doesn't realize that the engine is running and it makes that oh so lovely grinding noise for an additional half a second or so. It doesn't do it every time, just when it feels like being ornery. Is the starter going, or what?
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I have a 2002 Jetta TDI Manuel. New to me from brother. While there are some issues I can deal with ....soft touch turned to goo, etc there is one thing I am worried about.
He said the lights(all electrics) will go out intermittently. Head lights, turn signals, radio, interior lights. He says the car runs fine while the electronics are out (except no headlights). Usually only happens for a few seconds but occasionally will last minutes. Longest it has happened is 10 minutes and the lights all come back on by themselves.
What could cause this and what needs to be done for fixing? He is a outboard mechanic and has kept the car up great, but he doesn't like to mess with wiring/electrics. I'm sure he has checked the basics.
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