I bought a 03 GTI 1.8T. It was hit in the front so it needs a new bumper. The intercooler is smashed to bits. The car will start and idle but as soon as you go to drive into the shop it wants to stall and die out. Will not drive at all. Would the smashed intercooler cause this? No check engine light at all. Car is a 5 speed. All wheels turn free so nothing is keeping it from not rolling.
View 11 RepliesI recently put a fmic on my mk4 and a 3" dp... My question was : any kind or heat wrap on the down pipe or intercooler piping? I also didn't know if painting the ic pipes with ceramic paint would keep the temp down.
View 4 Replies2003 Jetta 1.8T (Manual Transmission)
It does this while driving. Seems like when the car is under load or lots of gas driving there is no sound, but when less gas pedal like coasting it makes this sound.
Car has leaking turbo seal. And bad catalytic converter.
Under load, the car shimmies back and forth. Left to right. But only under load. It will even do it in 5th gear at 1500 rpm. The problem goes away when foot off the gas, or in neutral.
Already did a drivers side axle, passenger side axle, and dog bone mount.
I removed the intake to inspect the transmission mount and this is what I found below. Should it be able to wiggle this much? I imagine the mount is original to the car. Which has 156,000 on it currently.
I'm getting misfiring after the engine is hot, but it only shows up under certain load. For example, if I'm in 3rd gear at about 2500 rpm and I give it some amount of throttle, it wont misfire at all but if I give it just a hair more (maybe past 50% or so), it will start misfiring badly and the blinking CEL comes on. The codes it's triggering are misfire on cyl 1 and multiple misfire.
I replaced the coilpack about 6 months ago, that's why I'm hoping for some feedback before I drop a few hundred dollars on another one. I had the plugs out very recently and they look fine. The shape of the wires are difficult to get multimeter probes on so I haven't checked them.
I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
View 10 RepliesOk so lately I noticed a horrific rattling coming from the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm in a high gear going slow with a load on the gear. It's sort of like the rattle that comes from the exhaust with the same gear load but it's much looser and rattley sounding, and it doesn't always do it. It almost sounds like a piece of sheet metal in my spare tire well rattling when there's a gear load and the exhaust rattles. But I checked in there and it seems tight.
View 5 RepliesAlright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
I recently purchased a 2003 jetta 1.8t 5 speed manual and it wasn't making this noise when I first bought it.. It's almost like a growling/grinding noise. It's sounds like it's coming from my middle console but it could be coming from the engine bay hard to tell, but the only time this noise happens is at 1900 rpms when the car is under load like if I'm going a hill it's pretty loud when I'm going slow, the previous owner had the water pump, timing belt, and clutch done 10k miles ago. I have a feeling it's from the clutch/transmission or maybe from the timing belt?
View 2 RepliesInfo: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 golf 2.0 with 82k on it. I am having a really weird issue with car pulling left under load and then going back to the right when letting off the gas. It's more noticeable at higher speeds....over 40mph or so. I did a quick check under the car at ball joints, cv joints and can't really see anything that would make this issue. Would a trans mount or motor mount cause this? Is there something I am missing?
View 2 RepliesI just bought this car in it's current state. I got a really good deal on it so I wasn't too concerned that it wouldn't start. And I did a compression test before I bought it which had really good results.
It's starting up pretty effortlessly. and its really consistent how it goes up to 2000, and then dies. I though it might be the immobilizer but the light turns off like it should.
The previous owner claims it was rebuilt 40k miles ago professionally. I think I believe it. the car has 210,000 miles and 190 psi compression.
It also has a bunch of preventative maintenance done to it. waterpump, timing belt, thermostat, clutch, lightweight flywheel. What it could be? it's got to be something simple. I'm pretty sure this engine is nearly flawless
I have a 2004 mk4 GTi 1.8t and this has happened to me a few times now, I came home from work shut my car off and like 2 minutes later went out to go out to eat and before I left my neighborhood I stopped at a stop sign and my car just died wouldn't start back up so I push started it and then stopped again and the same thing so I tried to jump start it nothing happened so I push started my car got it home came home like 2 hours later and my car ran just fine, the second time it happened I was on my way to work and-and I was coming up on a red light and right before my car shut off my oil light came on so I checked my oil and it looks like I had oil and it was never ticking or anything but the first thing I tried was adding oil and it started up right away and today I went to school to drop papers off and when I came back out my car wouldn't start so I just sat there for like 20 minutes and it finally started and then once again on my way home my car died as I was pulling into my driveway.
View 1 RepliesSo I have a 2.0 jetta and I'm having this problem where my rpms fluctuate at idle and sometimes the car dies unless I give it gas.but when I'm driving if I'm not in gear and stop it sometimes dies.
I'm getting 5 codes : P0445, P0135, P0037, P0418, P1473
I checked all my grounds I changed the 02 sensor on the manifold checked for cut wires and nothing ...
I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
So here's whats going on now. My girlfriend has had her car for about 10 months now, and besides the last 3 weeks it has been a perfect car. In these last 3 weeks though her car has been a real pain.
Her car randomly dies while its being driven/at a stop. It doesn't matter how fast she is going or how long she has been at a stop.
It first started 3 weeks ago when i was driving it to the mall with her and the car started to slow down on the freeway, going about 65. I pushed on the accelerator and got no response. After about 5 seconds all power came back and we were off. At no point in time did the power inside or the headlights dim/turn off.
Next time it died it wouldn't get going again. Battery was fine. My first assumption was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine.
A couple days later the car did the exact same thing, except this time the battery was completely shot. Took a look at it and it was almost 8 years old. Went and replaced it.
The following day it died again, this time it was the battery again but since it was a brand new battery we knew it couldn't be the issue. So i went ahead and replaced the alternator. Turned on the car and it ran perfect. While it was running i even disconnected the battery just to make sure the alternator could still power the car, no issues.
A few days went by with everything working perfectly fine, not a single issue that is, until tonight. As my girlfriend was coming to pick me up her car died. She was coming up to a stop light and starting to slow down when her car lost power again. All the lights and radio stayed on but the car died. Battery light came on as well. I walked to her car and told her to try to start it. Fired up right away and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Drove it to my house without another issue.
At this point i'm stumped. The CEL is not coming on, which is a bummer because that would make this much easier. I cleaned off the terminals for the battery and the connecting wires (which weren't dirt or corroded).
My friends car suddenly quit running while he was on a trip, he went through the carwash and as he pulled out the car died. He had it towed to a shop and they charged him $400 to run a few tests and replace the fuel pump relay thinking it would fix the problem, obviously didn't or i wouldn't be typing this. At this point the car cranks but won't start.
This is what the sheet from the shop says, "retest through PCM to locate problem. Ran diagnostics per flow chart. all power, grounds and G28 engine speed spensor output to ECM test good excepting pin T121/86, wire color Lilac/yellow. Signal between camshaft position sensor to ecm. No voltage signal recommend replace PCM and RETEST."
I've put a used ecm (ecu? i've read both terms used) in and the car cranks, starts, gets to idle and dies. If i give it gas after it starts it'll rev up once, then die. I'll call it progress, but i want this damn car out of my driveway.
I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
I am at a complete loss as to what could be wrong with my 2002 VW Gold Cabrio GLX automatic transmission. In the last month the car has been to 3 different mechanics & none of them could solve this problem. The basic scenario: The car starts up fine. The engine will run & everything works fine (AC, radio lights etc).
If I put the car in Drive or reverse...it will idle & move. However, the moment I touch the gas pedal, whether in reverse or Drive, the car jerks & dies. If I put it in park & try to start it up again, the engine will turn over & the car will start, but the moment I touch that gas pedal again, same thing, jerks & dies.
Things that have been replaced so far: ignition coil, fuel pump, the catalytic converter has been removed. spark plugs replaced. Now they are saying that the problem is electrical & are working with the fuzes & wires. The car ran fine for 3+ years & I've had no problem with it.
Yesterday the mechanic called me & said the car was ready for pick-up. I go over there, pay him, I reverse out of the driveway & the minute I press the gas, it jerks & dies. Is this problem really electrical? Or is this third mechanic also grasping at straws?
2004 PD TDI. been a little hard to start these days, hot or cold, and suddenly dies on me in middle of the road. Tank pump is working, new fuel filter so lots of fuel. Replaced engine speed sensor as there was no tach function. Glow plug light comes on, so ECU has power. Not a hiccup. Don't have the advanced VW diagnostic software, just generic scan tool. No engine codes.
I checked the wiring diagram in my manual and it shows 3 wires to speed sensor, one of which should be ground. getting various resistances across all 3 to ground (measuring through the ecu end of the connector, sensor unplugged), but no direct to ground which seems strange, but I'm not sure I trust the Haynes manual as the colour codes listed aren't the same as in my car - I've got white brown and black, and none show direct ground. Not sure if it matters as it's only a shield anyway.