My car is ''remap'' from 1.4 to 1.8 golf iv.. I think that immobilizer don't work,can I change speedometer from 1.8 gti without make encode the new one? Only to take the new speedometer and fit it on my car.. Also how can I understand if my immobilizer works? I have vag com...
View 2 RepliesMy one original switchblade is long gone and the other no longer works. It starts the car of course but none of the functions work, battery change did nothing.
Question: Do any other model year keys work with the alarm and immobilizer?
So the other day i hit something on the road and all of the sudden when im coasting in gear i hear a "thududududududd" noise from mid engine.. you cant hear it when the windows are down, only when they are up and it doesn't happen in neutral or when the clutch is pressed in. also after i shut the car off and turned it back on i had a CEL for the A range vehicle speed sensor which i replaced yesterday but still the speedo doesn't work and the gas gauge is moving around bends. when letting off the gas to shift the car stops almost like hitting the brakes and shifts kind of hard. It also backfires like a shot gun in 4th gear only. I recently had a stage 2 south bend clutch put in but everything was fine after that installation.
View 1 RepliesI am proud new owner of a 03 Mk4 Bora GLI. I have some issues that I could use a hand with. My symptoms are as follows:
1. Speedometer stopped working.
2. Fuel gauge goes on the fritz (rapidly declines) when parked on an incline or going around corners.
3. Cruise control does not work. "Cruise" light come on the dash but the set/reset button on the stalk does nothing.
Note: All fuses are in tact.
My buddy with his 2000 jetta 2.0 that starts then stalls. The immobilizer light turns on and off again as it should during the starting process. Tried reprogramming the key with the 2 key programming process, also tried removing power from the battery and touching the leads together but these are fixes for the immobilizer but the light doesn't stay flashing. Is there anything I can try while waiting for my vag-com scanner to be delivered....
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2004 Golf 2.0 GL.....and for some reason this morning out of the blue when I tried to start the car to go to work it fired right up....and then about 1-2 seconds later immediately dies. I tried several times to start it....but every time it fired right up, then dies in a second or two. I also noticed that I'm getting the Immobilizer light on the dash....I'm guessing this is the problem.
Why would I get this all of a sudden? Did something happen to the chip in my key? Could the sensor in the steering column by bad? I don't want to have to load this thing on a trailer and take it to the dealership. Why would this happen out of the blue??
i have a car with a busted out steering column (drunk PO lost the key and tried to screw driver the ignition to get the steering to turn so he can move the car). i ordered a new key by vin and i managed to find the tumbler casing(damaged) but all the tumblers (still in good shape). i have installed another column in the car now and i pulled the lock cylinder assembly with the immo induction ring out. id like to take the tumbler casing out of the induction ring and put in my old tumblers.
how do you remove the immobilizer induction ring from lock cylinder?
So like the title states I have a MK4 VR6 Jetta that was running before I ran into this issue and was idling but wouldn't reach over 2k before sputtering and stopping acceleration and the EPC light would turn on. Now the car starts for a second at a time before dying which to me sounds like the Immobilizer but the vehicle shows no blinking immobilizer code while starting. What I can check to get this straightened out. I miss my VR6 ... I have been thinking it could be:
1) Fuel pump/ Fuel pump relay
2) Ecu Issue
3) Crank/Knock Sensor
I'm just confused because it was throwing no codes before, the temp sensor worked as the car warmed and the only engine light occurred upon reaching operating temp and due to me being catless upon restarting the vehicle it threw an o2 fault code. Just so confused ...
I am going to remove my Instrument Cluster for an illumination LED changing, to convert them to the white colour. I found out that Immobiliser is located on Instrument Cluster, is there anything I have to be careful?
It's 1999 Bora. I think Immo 2 on it.
I found one Thread that someone had the problem with Immobiliser after cluster removal (it was also for LED job), a car was not starting, he suffered some time tried lots of things, but then everything went OK, even though he wasn't sure what was wrong.
So, do you think there is a high potential risk to take it out? Do you think I have to cut battery connection beforehand?
Well last night on my way home after work (2:30 AM) I was on the turnpike and puff my car shut down and anti theft immobilizer light started blinking and the car won't start got it tow....
View 3 RepliesI have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
My vw jetta 2.0 mk4 runs perfectly fine till i hit 70mph then it just bounces slightly between 70-75mph and stays there. Everything else on the dash seems to work fine. my rpm is working fine, odometer is working fine, it's just the speedometer that gets stuck once i go past 70mph. I can tell that i'm going faster than 70mph yet it wouldn't go past 70-75.
View 3 RepliesMy speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
This morning, I wanted to drive to work, but all of my coolant was gone. In the last couple of weeks, I had some errors with my speedometer and had it replaced a week ago, which did not fix my problem (the P0722 sometimes still came up).
Could it be that my coolant leaked over the last weeks and somehow messed with my speedometer, or are those most likely independent errors?
My car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and at this point I don't want to put too much into it any more. If you need more input, let me know.
My car (jetta 2002 1.8t) have the error code p0501 even if the speedo is working. I replaced the speed sensor just to make sure.
If I erase the code, and drive no matter how far/fast I go, the check light doesn't turns on. But as soon as I turn of the car and drive again it does comes on.
So my girlfriend got a 2002 Jetta Wagon 2.0 automatic (PRND321, no tiptronic). She noted when she was driving fast on the driveway highway one day her speedo stopped climbing and would wiggle around 60mph and not go any further even if she was going 80+.
I would have thought first that the speed sensor would be messed up. Went to the junkyard and pulled 2 speed sensors for cheaper then 1/4 of new. Put the newer cleaner part on and the same exact issues. Locks up and wont climb past ~65mph and the needle wiggles. I am guessing its not the sensor. Question is what could cause it? Could it be the actual internal gear in that meshes with the transmission? Ill try replacing, i have extra i think. But could this be a cluster or a computer issue? And the odometer is also off. When it gets stuck at the slow speed, the mileage won't count at the full speed. She drove to a friends at a known 80 miles away and it only said its was low 70-something on the gauge when she got there. So there is a discrepancy of mileage count too.
I am going to head to the junkyard soon and thinking of pulling a cheap cluster to try it out, but I also heard you might need a VCDS for the immobilizer in the cluster. And the mileage is stored on the cluster or not? What should I pursue next?
I am having a slight issue with my cluster. When I turn the key on or start the car, the speedo needle goes crazy for about a minute then stops above 0mph (points at 5mph when im not moving). While that's happening, the other needles don't work until the speedo normalizes. It also does this when i turn the car off. What this could be? I heard about the VSS can cause speedo issues but what about the rest? I also heard the mk4's can have cluster failures. it's a 99' mk4 vr6 jetta 5spd.
View 3 Replies05 GTI 1.8t
Neuspeed chipped (yeah, bring the insults, car came with it, peaks 24psi so neener-neener!)
Other than that it's mechanically stock.
Last time I had the oil changed, I drove roughly 30 miles to work the following day. When I went to leave work the car beeped a few times, no lights went off. I pulled over and checked oil, it was a half quart low. Topped it off and didn't have a problem after.
Yesterday I had the oil changed, drove to work today and as I left I got that same beep. This time it looks like it's not low on oil. No lights went off, I pondered for a few minutes and took the streets home. No following light or signs of trouble.
What could be happening? My oil pressure sensor is relatively new, replaced it last year and I checked the connection today. I searched around but keep coming across common oil pressure threads. I'm planning to get an oil pressure gauge, guess I'll get one sooner than later for peace of mind.
My car was running fine and it was due for a new oil change so I decided to do it myself. I changed the oil and oil filter and I started my car after I did this and it ran fine. I shut my car off and a few minutes later when I went to start it again, it cranked over and was sputtering. I tried again and now it won't even sputter. It will just turn over. Also the car is a 03 vw gti vr6 with 126xxx miles on it.
View 24 RepliesI read through the manual but can't figure out how to change to mph on the speedometer. I saw the full size Prius has a button but I see no button on my Prius-c.
View 17 RepliesI just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
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