i am trying to wire a cooling mist W/M kit, and it says to connect the com terminal to the ignition "KEY ON POWER". which i assume is the wire that powers on when they key is inserted into the car.
ive searched and i cant seem to find info related to the key on power that's referenced in the instructions.
2003 Jetta, has a bad clutch so has been sitting for about 6 months. Unfortunately, it is not the most water tight car, so it is a little humid/damp inside. Here's the issue, put the key in, try to turn it, won't budge. Shot some lock ease in, still no turn. What to try next?
View 5 RepliesI bought a mk iv 2.0 GTi last week and twice now I've heard a sound what i can only describe as someone stamping on an empty can after switching off the ignition and opening the driver side door.
The sound, sounds like it comes from under the bonnet.
The car runs sweet engine is all clean sounds ok no other knocks or bangs.
What could be causing this? It seems to happen after the engine is warm and I've given it some throttle but only when the engine has just been turned off.
I am having a little issue with the ignition in my car. I had the typical no headlights/wipers/heater etc. so I ordered up a new ignition switch and when I went to replace it, the switch fit perfectly and had the correct part number but when I put my key in to try and start the car I couldn't even turn the key but when I put the old switch back in it would turn just fine. Also when I removed the old switch I noticed the red wire going to the switch was slightly burnt right at the terminal.
Here is the basic procedure I did:
-Unhook negative battery cable
-remove lower dash/ center console
-remove switch
-install new switch
Whats this little metal piece? I did not see that when I did mine...
OK, here's the update so far.
- new battery
- all fuses fine in panel, all fuses fine on battery pack.
- am getting power to trigger switch upon engine crank (tested w lamp and volt meter).
- did the 'mechanics tap' on the starter motor body
Still no crank when key is turned, instrument panel/gauges light up as normal
So am I right in thinking that I've narrowed the problems down to:
1) bad solenoid
2) bad starter
3) bad connection between battery and starter
or have I missed something?
Also, is there a way to directly test the starter (or indirectly test the solenoid) by applying power to the starter?
Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?
View 1 RepliesOne night i get into my car its a 2002 mk4 golf 2.0 engine and i turn my key to start it and i turn the key all the way and i am getting no sound at all no clicking or even the engine trying to start. the key just turns all the way and thats it my stereo turns on and my interior lights turn on but my headlights dont turn on and my cluster gauges needles dont move at all . its like my ignition is not sending any signal to the engine or my cluster gauges. the cluster lights work but that it. when i turn the key to start i am getting nothing . What this could be?
View 8 RepliesWent to start my car today but couldn't move my steering wheel at all??
Ignition still works and i can turn my keys but not the wheel?
2001 Golf with A/T. 130,000 miles. Daughter went to turn key, heard a "snap" sound, car wouldn't start...no "click" from any electrical contact, starter apparently not getting any "juice". key now turns in switch too easily...can't feel the usually resistance when turning key. Key fob works, steering wheel turnable, can move trans lever out of "Park" into all positions with foot on brake. Broken key cylinder, or some link to ignition switch? Car at repair shop, waiting it's turn.
View 3 RepliesSo I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
View 6 RepliesSo a while ago I had no power. The car seemed to idle fine but when I would accelerate, there was no power. Being I just took this into the dealer for the same issue, could I have a bad diverter from the dealer or a possible bigger issue.
View 8 RepliesWhen I drive, especially in 2nd gear it has no power at all. It sounds like air is leaking because there is a real loud "hissing" noise when i add gas and the car barely moves. I know tdi's aren't quick at all but i drove my cousins (same year same model) and I could feel a difference in the power. I had a few people look at it but no one is 100% sure on the problem, from what I've been told it could either be the vacuum, it needs an egr cleaning, the turbo needs to be replaced (however there is no check engine light on), or a cable maybe not be plugged in.
View 7 RepliesMK4 Jetta, 4cyl 5spd, and while driving the EPC light comes on, and it looses power. Doesn't matter if shifting, stopping, going, in town, on the highway, the light comes on and it drastically looses power. If shuts it off while driving (it's a 5spd) that sometimes fixes it (sometimes for days, sometimes for minutes). Sometimes it takes 35 minutes to get a distance that normally takes 5 minutes to drive. Is this a common problem? What to check/replace, while I still have access to the car (and a Autozone and a VW Dealership)...
View 24 RepliesNot sure whats going on with it, but just today i checked my oil and it was bone dry so i put some in, then I noticed it leaking off the oil pan. I don't know if its coming from the oi pan or if from somewhere else. Also I've lost power had a lot of codes for too lean of air and misfires in 3 cylinders. When I accelerate I hear what sounds like a lot of air either being sucked in or let out. Also I replaced the maf cause, I saw that a lot of people fixed similar issues by changing or cleaning the maf.
View 1 RepliesI think I blew a power steering hose. I lost all my fluid and lost power steering. I'm at work. Is it safe to drive 3 miles home with no fluid?
View 4 RepliesI have a 3inch cat back exhaust, cold air intake, and a stage 1 apr tune. I just installed a front mount intercooler. When I spool my turbo in 1st gear the car loses all power at 4 grand and just bogs out after that. Rpms keep climbing but the speed doesn't move. What's going on?!
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Jetta 2.0 5 speed. Some months ago I was driving in a little snow and turned my wheel at just about full lock, in reverse. All of a sudden I hear a gushing sound coming from around the steering wheel/floorboard. Power steering officially ceased to work. Ive drove with it like that for a while now. To the point where the rubber around my steering wheel is all falling off. But it's getting old.
I've replaced the pump four separate times. Nothing. Can't hear the pump try to work. Fluid comes in to the drivers floorboard. My whole carpet is soaked with it. Also, I refill the reservoir to keep the pump lubed and everything, but for some reason if I turn my AC on it makes the pump instantly burn out. Complete with smoke and the pulley snapping off. Ive looked for leaks, loose hoses etc.
2000 jetta 2.0
so far i have replaced 2 fans ; thermal switch in radiator ; ran all the tests i can find ; all fuses and relays seem fine ; jumped compressor and it engages .
key on & car NOT running there is no power to the compressor.
I wanted to check the low pressure switch but every test is for a 2 wire set-up.... mine has 3 wires. which wires do i jump?
Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).
I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.
As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)
I have a 2004 Jetta wagon 2.0. About 2 years ago my compressor was replaced with a used one and the a/c was working perfectly fine. Last year the air from the a/c began to get warmer until it completely stopped blowing any cold air. A couple of weeks ago we checked the freon lines and they had plenty of pressure in them. We also checked the fuses in the car and on top of the battery along with the fan control module. The compressor spins from the serpentine belt but the clutch does not engage and there is no power in the wires going to the compressor. There is power at the high pressure switch but the condenser fan does not come on unless the switch is jumped. Could the culprit be the ambient temperature sensor?
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