I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
2000 jetta 2.0
I had my a/c checked out as it would not come on nor would my fans come on when the interior a/c switch was pushed and yes the switch lit up.
The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
I have an 03 Accent. The all metal high pressure power steering line had a leak. So I bought a new one for around 70 dollars from Hyundai. This part has a curved shape and fits around the radiator. The old one was difficult to get off, but the new one is proving impossible to get on. I cant get it into place.
View 2 RepliesSo I think my A/c high pressure switch went out/failed. I came out from a shop and I had just bought 2 new front tires and got them mounted 1 hour prior and I though that I had ran over something. I felt around the passenger tire but didn't find a anything-but there was a hissing noise behind the passenger tire and the air smelled a little funny. So when I got in the car and turned the a/c on nothing happened/No cold air and I had just used the A/c on the way over to the shop. So when I got home I pulled these codes:
00792.Air Conditioner pressure switch F129
01274.Motor for Air Recirculation flap V71
I have a really small leak coming from the lower end of my power steering hose, it's super small, I was wondering if I could fix this by wiping it down really well and dry, and then layering it with plasti-dip. I think the leak is small/slow enough for me to get in a few good layers. Would this be an okay fix, or would the plasti-dip separate fast?
View 2 RepliesI have a mk4 TDI. Running 18" 225/40 and coil overs. My car began to have a loose steering wheel and was unstable at high speed so i did alignment and it was bad. when they fixed it next day it broke again. My front wheels end up being too open. If front left is straight than the front right is too much open, like i am turning right. i did alignment again in the shop, they made them straight and it broke again next day. What can cause that my allignment breaks every day? Shop doesn't know.
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to find the power steering pressure switch for a 2002 PT Cruiser. I have been under the car and located a pump on the passenger side with a two prong connector. The connector looks to be in good shape. I thought the switch was replaceable but there was nothing to screw out only two prongs going in. Am I looking at the wrong part and if so where is the power steering pump?
View 4 RepliesThis is the second time the car has died mid-drive. was getting off an exit on the interstate, popped it into neutral from 5th. suddenly had no power steering/brakes. engine just shut off. pulled over to start it, and engine just turned over. no starting-just the cheerful noise of a cranking engine. nice motorist pulled over and gave me a jump, which worked. The first time was the same story. going into neutral to coast down a hill, and it died. was about to get a jump and it started after sitting for about 10 mins. What is going on here?! fuel filter? pump? I'm at a loss.
View 12 RepliesProbably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
Windstar 2000, 260K, ABS not functioning, previously ABS light on all the time now of even with Key on Engine Stopped. While a long drive after 1600 KM failed to apply the Cruis. Horn not blowing. Retried cruise engaged but resume, horn, deceleration did not not function. Stopped, disconnected battery for half hour cruise and horn started functioning. Again after 400 KM stopped functioning. Now it is intermittent. Tail lights normally working. Cruise deactivating switch (switch unser the master brake cylinder) was changed by ford 5 years back, it is dry no signs of brake oil on it. Fuse no 10 is OK. Rapid repeated turning steering wheel has no effect. CEL On since 4 years code is for bank 2 CTM.
View 7 RepliesMy high pressure power steering hose just blew at the "B" nut at the pump. Meaning, the fitting is still in the pump but the line is out. Do I need to replace the whole line or is there a retainer I can swap out?
View 14 RepliesI just replaced my 3rd HP power steering line last night( 3rd in 300K, always blows the same point....fitting comes apart where it attaches to the pump.
I'll start, mine have gone about 100K plus or minus 10K, almost thinking about making it a 100K maintenance item.
How do you get the line back on to the rack? There is absolutely no room and I have experimented with a variety of tools with no luck. What's the trick?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 golf gti 1.8th awp with 160k miles. I was due for a change so I grab castrol edge 0w40 the euro formula like I normally do but the stp filter was on sale with it so i used that. a week later the low oil pressure light comes on when the cars fully warmed up but only at idle I can review it above 1000 and it'll go away. I decided to change the pressure sensor sense it's cheap and easy nothing. I also went to a Bosch filter which I had before same thing light comes on only at idle.
So I decided to drop the pan and clean the pick up there was some crap in it wasn't to over clogged. I did little notice plastic piece surgery in the pan but when I first got the car the dipstick was deteriorating and I know a few little prices fell in there. Also noticing a fairly clean looking motor and oil pump so I don't think sludge is a issue. Anyway I decided to try mobile 1 0w40 euro formula and I read k&ns 3001 filter is a good oversized filter. Anyway light still comes on only at idle, what next?
Addition info the the car it's a stage 2 apr tune with euros ports pcv hoses turbo inlet pipe 42dd's catless exhaust recently had a leak in radiator so replaced that and the fuel pump went out within the last month or two
One of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
View 2 RepliesAssociated symptoms include no power steering, complete lack/absence of stability and traction control. This has happened to me a few times in the past, but has never stayed in after multiple start ups (and other remedial action). 2-3 times it's happened on startup, and cleared after a restart, one time while driving, and cleared on its own. This is going on the list of issues with less than 7k on the car.... 2012 3.6 sel
View 17 RepliesI bought my GTI used and don't know what software its running but I have some questions about the boost pressure. When I'm in Idle the car will only boost to about 7-10psi when i rev the engine in neutral, But when I'm driving it will boost all the way to about 17-20psi if I really stomp it, 15psi if I'm just giving it a bit of "go". The car takes off and goes really quick, seems like it has a lot of power so I doubt there's a boost leak but I'm wondering does the car boost differently in Idle because it knows its not moving?
View 2 RepliesHow to remove the "high pressure" power steering hose. I have drained the fluid, disconnected from the pump, and also from the rack. Removed the center clamp, and got it all "loose". However, I cannot seem to figure out how to "fish" the hose out. There is a long piece of metal tubing that connects into the rack, and it seems to be resting above some cross member that is not removable. Went to the library, and searched the AllData Online manuals. On the "How to replace the High Pressure Hose" page, it only showed a diagram of the power steering system, with no written description on how to remove the hose. I am not on a lift, but jacked up and supported and on my back under the car with the right wheel removed. I am stumped, and the new hose is due to arrive soon.
View 2 RepliesJust had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
View 4 RepliesI've been experiencing an annoying intermittent condition on my '07 Sonata (Lambda V6). I wanted to share this in case any of you are experiencing intermittent rough idle complaints in your Sonata (4G) as well. I was finally able to get it into the dealership during the malfunction; in my case, the MIL never lit. Here are the symptoms: ONLY after being fully warmed up, when coming to a full stop, or using just idle speed to, for example, pull into a parking space, or inch up to a stoplight, I would experience a very rough idle (I could hear the engine sputtering with the window down), see the RPM gauge bouncing, and feel the vehicle going "putt-putt-putt" as it tried to keep running under what seemed to be a misfire or too much load. The problem occurred more noticeably with the A/C off but still did occur with it on as well. While exhibiting this problem, acceleration from a stop gave a slight hesitation as well, but once going faster than 1,000RPMs, the problem went away totally. I thought it must have been my imagination until one day, I pulled up in front of a glass window and could see the reflection of my car lurching forward as it struggled to keep idling. Getting it to the dealership while it was behaving badly was the hardest part.
Once I got there, I got a tech to ride with me and finally, after 3 visits to the dealership, someone else witnessed the problem. Up until now, I've been asking people, "Do you feel/hear that?" "Huh?" I digress... The tech immediately said he thought it was a power steering issue and he thought there was an upcoming bulletin on it. I was sure he was wrong, I was thinking it had to be the spark plugs, wires, MAF, or TPS.
After getting the part in for me (Power Steering Sensor Switch) they put it in today and my vehicle is just as new again. It was never a serious issue, but was rather embarrassing to try and show off my Sonata and have it stutter and sputter like that it idle.
This part is complete speculation; maybe a more knowledgeable person can jump in here and correct any logical errors: Apparently, there is a switch in the Power Steering Unit that detects highway speeds versus slower speeds. When vehicle speed is above a certain limit, the power steering pump is either turned off or "turned way down" (so people get the stiffer feel of the wheel at highway speeds). When the vehicle slows down to idle (to be detected by this switch), the vehicle expects the power steering pump will draw full power from the engine and needs to have a slightly higher idle speed to compensate for the load. My switch was malfunctioning; it was not registering to the ECM that the power steering pump was under load when it actually was; the vehicle then did not bump up the idle speed appropriately, and thus, the rough idle and hesitation.
I am having a problem with my car today. When I started it today while going home from work I noticed that it's idling a bit rough. Then i noticed that the pressure is going under -0.8 bar. Golf 4 1.8t boost going under 20 hg at idle. While driving it is normal but when i slow down it hesitates like it's gonna turn off and the pressure goes less than -1 bar .. What the problem may be ?
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