Golf IV / Jetta IV :: How To Remove Lock Mechanism On Rear Door
Aug 11, 2014
I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
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I am having a problem with one door lock on my Golf. The problem is with the left rear door. There are no issues unlocking it using either the fob or the driver door button. It also locks using the driver door. However, it does not lock using the fob.
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My 2011 Prius apparently had a broken lock actuator on the driver's door, and knowing that the dealer would charge me over $500 for installation of a new actuator, I decided to order a new $5 motor off of ebay, and change the little motor inside the actuator myself. Everything was going fine until I put everything back together, and gave it a try. Now my door won't unlock at all. All of the other doors work fine. I've tried the little key from the keyfob, and turning it kinda feels mushy. My guess is that something is wrong with my re-installation of the cables.
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1999 Suburban
Although the key slides into the lock easily, it's a bear to turn the key left and right. I tried squirting some graphite into the key hole and working it with the key but that didn't do much if anything.
Is there a way to lube the internals that a homeowner--not mechanic--can do?
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My car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
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Can I disable the automatic door lock mechanism? Maybe pull a fuse? All of a sudden the locks start locking and unlocking over and over and the lights dim. I would like to disable the automatic and use the key to lock and unlock the doors. It is a 2002, F-250-Super Duty 4x4 SuperCab.
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i have a car with a busted out steering column (drunk PO lost the key and tried to screw driver the ignition to get the steering to turn so he can move the car). i ordered a new key by vin and i managed to find the tumbler casing(damaged) but all the tumblers (still in good shape). i have installed another column in the car now and i pulled the lock cylinder assembly with the immo induction ring out. id like to take the tumbler casing out of the induction ring and put in my old tumblers.
how do you remove the immobilizer induction ring from lock cylinder?
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Just replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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I put a new door lock actuator in my drivers door today. The key locks the door just fine but when I return it to center it unlocks the door. If I take the key out and just tap the key cylinder it unlocks again. Is there any adjustment I haven't found yet to the key cylinder or actuator?
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I just replaced my door latch module (drivers side) on my 2002 gti 1.8t. Now I can't unlock or lock my doors using the key fob or the door controls inside. I'm stuck....
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My wife and I just noticed today in our 2010 GTI that the rear passenger door does not lock at all. It does not matter if I use the remote or the one on the drivers door. Also when I use the remote, the alarm sets but when the back door is opened it doesn't go off.
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I am having issues with the door lock module.
I cannot open it with the remote or manually with the key. So i took the whole door apart and took out the actuator module thing and pulled it apart and checked all switches and solder joints and fixed them all and put back together to test and it still doesn't work. It doesn't seem like there is any power going to the module. I just plugged in the connector into the module and tried to test it and nothing.
I activate the micro switch for the door and the interior lights don't go on or off. They are off. Also when i put the key in ignition there is no noise and turning headlights on there is no noise. The last time i was working on the car was when everything was working and that was last Saturday. I opened the hood and shut the door and it locked itself but when i shut the hood the alarm went off and was a solid noise not a chirp or pulsation alarm noise. So i hit the unlock button on my remote and that fixed it.
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I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
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Before I changed my driver's lock module, when I removed my key and opened the door, the car would still have power to close the sunroof and windows, but now with the new module once I open the door the power's all off. I have to resort to everything closing when I lock the car (KVW100).
Why this is happening and how I can revert to being able to close the windows without having to leave the key in? Not that it's a huge issue; just felt it was a nicer convenience how it used to be.
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Like the title says, the door lock cylinder does not work on my driver's side door. I removed it and the doors lock unlock with a screw driver so it's only the lock cylinder that is bad. Is there a way to "rebuild" it or fix it without having to get a new one? All 3 of my keys don't work for the trunk or drivers door.
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For 6 months of ownership, the rear hatch apparently has never been locked. I can lock all other 4 doors, expect the latch apparently won't lock by itself. and I can't physically lock it with the key as it looks like the lock is seized. What are my options? Do I have to get a used rear hatch or is there someway of locking it from the inside?
Looking at some videos online, it looks to be that the actuator motor in the trunk could be the possible culprit?
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About 2 or so weeks ago, I picked up an .:R for a STEAL! I don't have all that much to complain about (because let's face it, it's an R32 ...) but I have noticed a few issues with it that I am hoping are related.
During one car ride I needed to charge my phone, but unfortunately the 12v port doesn't work (I checked all of the side panel fuses and even changed the whole jack, nothing). Another issue that I noticed, was that the passenger door lock intermittently works... sometimes it will work, and other times I have to unlock the door by opening it from the inside. On those freak occasions when it does work, than the driver's door lock won't work... That being irritating in itself, tonight I went to pop the hatch, and it wouldn't unlock! I had to put the key in to open it... that was the first time that I had encountered this issue...
My question is, could all of these issues be related somehow? I highly doubt that all of the lock modules are faulty.The PO did have a record about having the issue checked by the dealership, but they couldn't recreate it.
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra (GLS, I think). I was having problems with the factory alarm, and while troubleshooting that, I found that the lock on the rear door (drivers side) works well manually, but fails (won't lock or unlock) most of the time when using the key fob or the master lock switch on the drivers door. I'm pretty sure the actuator for the door lock/latch is going bad, and I'd like to take it off the vehicle for inspection and if bad, replace it.
So, I took the door panel off, and found there is a huge aluminum cover over most of the door, with about 9 bolts holding it on. I can't seem to get it off, to gain access to the interior of the door where the actuator is mounted. I've tried the local Hyundai dealership, local auto parts stores, but how to remove it. Removing the bolts lets me pry it away enough to peek inside, but I can't find what's holding that aluminum cover on.
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I own a 2005 prius that I purchased used this year. This morning I had my first issue. I turned on the car and it gave me the following error message:
"Transmission p lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car in a flat place and apply parking brake completely."
The parking break wasn't on and I was already parked in a basically flat parking space. I couldn't move my car because it wouldn't go into drive or reverse or neutral. (The car turned on, but the engine wouldn't start). I tried turning the car off, but the car also wouldn't turn off. I let the car sit for 5 minutes then tried again and the car turned off. When it turned back on, everything was fine.
My questions is: Do I need to bring this into a mechanic? The car seems to work fine now, but I don't want to be stranded again or do damage to the car by driving it with an issue.
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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