Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Hood Doesn't Close - Latch Isn't Locking Into Place
Apr 27, 2003
I opened up my hood and now it doesn't close... it seems like the latch isn't locking into place and holding the hood down. I do a lot of car work myself, but after countless hours of trying to figure out why my latch isn't locking shut, I give up. I am planning to take it to a local dealer after I schedule an appointment, but that means that I can't drive for a few days... maybe weeks if they are booked... I don't want the hood to pop up on the highway or anything.
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The latch thing that you pull on to pop the hood has broken, any other way to open the hood up?
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I drive a mk4 GTI 2004 Stage 1 software. Just got home from being at sea for the last three months and my hood latch won't open. It pops exposing the tab, but the safety lock won't release the hood. I tried putting my hand in and pulling the the mech that the latch attaches too but it wont budge. I then tried removing the grille to have a better view and more access, but it doesn't look like its possible to remove the grille without popping the hood. Anyway, how to tackle it, maybe if there's a way to remove the grille without breaking it or getting from under it.
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Had a small fender bender the other day Only noticeable damage is my hood doesn't close properly now. Still latches and doesn't seem to pop open, but it's stuck in the position that it would be in after releasing it (after pulling the hood release under the steering wheel). Not sure what's broken. My car is a 2004 Ford Taurus SE.
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So I have an 05 MK4 GLI, my alarm has not worked since the day I got it. Hold the alarm button on the fob, no luck. when I lock or unlock the car, the lights don't flash and the horn doesn't beep. My ex had an 03 GLS 2.0, alarm/lock/unlock worked without a problem, so why mine doesn't work.
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I have been having trouble trying to release the lever under the hood on my 2009 Jetta. the interior lever seems to be working but when I attempt to depress the hood lever it won't budge! I like to check my oil on a regular basis and I have never had this challenge before. I'm also worried that if I am able to release it that I will not be able to secure it afterwards, rendering my vehicle inoperable. I am strongly considering just taking it for an oil change and "springing" the dilemma on the garage.
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Just got my MK4 R32, I'm trying to shut the hood and it just won't close all the way. The hood isn't getting as close to the VW sign as it's supposed to. Is there something i'm missing? What position does the latch have to be when I drop the hood to shut it?
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all).
Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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My car is a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. the car is bone stock, I can not hold boost and it fluctuates all over the place. the dv sounded like a flutter until I bypassed the n249 now it sounds like a steady pssh. car still would only make 4lbs of boost and drop to 1-2lbs after 3500rpm. I pulled the line off the n75 to wastegate and did a pull. it boosted to 8lbs spiked to 15 and held 4lbs, if the tires spun it would spike to 12-15lbs and drop to 4 again. I replaced the n75 today and now will still spike high if I spin, with traction boosts about 8lbs which I believe is stock but then drops to 1-2 lbs then up to 4 down to 1-2 sometimes up to 6, it seems random. I also pinched off the dv to see if that was the problem but same thing.
I'm wondering how my car could lose boost with the wastegate actuator unhooked, I can not find a boost leak(not saying there isn't one, but haven't found one), the car holds more boost with the n75 unplugged and under acceleration, with n75 plugged in it seems like 3 surges per gear?
Car throws one code p1473 its an evap code.
The wastegate sounds like its closing when I pull the rod and let it go, lots of tension on it.
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I own a 2004 Jetta 1.8t, about 6 months ago i had an oil leak problem and a cracked vacuum line. i fixed the oil leak and fixed the cracked line with 034 motor sports pcv hose kit. I snapped 2 more vacuum lines and repaired them with rubber hose. p0300, p0301, p0507, p0171, p0303. Are the codes I am currently having actually have had them for just over 6 months. I've replaced all plugs, I've upgraded to ecs tuning 2.0 coils. No fix, went back to oem coils which I am using now. It runs pretty good until i clear the codes. Then idles all over the place and the boost gauge bounces all over.
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I tried searching and couldn't find any info about this... the problem is that after my FMIC install my hood won't lock unless i force it down by sitting on it... I checked with tape and everything to see if my upper FMIC pipe was hitting the hood but its not, and nothing else is hitting the hood.
The hood mechanism is working since I went over it with a screwdriver to see how it locked and everything. The only thing that comes to mind is that since the same piece that holds the hood mechanism is the one that holds my IC that is sagged down? but everything seems to be tight and not moving.
Here is a pic for reference.........
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So, for about the last year, the whole time I have owned the car, the trunk latch wouldn't close when I shut the trunk. Basically I just lift it up again and try closing it, then it closes fine.
However, this morning, it took about 5 tries to get the trunk to latch. Now I am getting a little concerned. I have the bentley manual that I'm gonna have a look at ...
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When I open the trunk using the lever to the left of the driver's seat the trunk will open but will not latch close again.
I can open the trunk using the key or the Key FOB.
The lever in the passenger's compartment does not return to it normal down position. Upon examination of the latch itself, it appears operational with all parts moving freely when disconnected from everything else.
There is a spring-loaded cable return mechanism that is supposed to return the trunk latch and the cable to their initial positions. I have to physically move the spring loaded mechanism by hand in a counter-clockwise direction to get the mechanisms to return to their starting positions.
I think that this indicates that there is either a bind in the cable or that the lever in the driver's compartment is faulty.
Do I have to disassemble the interior of the car to check/change the cable and/or the lever mechanism? Are there any posted instructions on how to do this?
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Having a little issue w/ the wife's hatch lock mechanism as seen in the video below. The black lock arm isn't the culprit as in some other videos I've seen.
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OK, Two days ago, at random, my lock stuck and would not open. I looked on this site and the best solution was to try to reset by disconnecting the battery. However, yesterday before I could get home and try it, the trunk starting opening and would not shut.
This morning I did the battery d/c. I notice the latch would pull the trunk down and then release several times. It appears about 5 times and then stopped in the open position. I put a screwdriver in the latch hook to see if that would stop the latch. It would not. I did the battery d/c about 5 times and no avail. I also checked the emergency pull inside the trunk and it is fine. I checked the latch release inside the car as well as in the glove box and they both appear to be in good working order.
So, I am led to believe I have either a wiring harness or a motor problem. I am leaning to the wiring harness because the pull down motor for the soft close is also not working.
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I opened the trunk to put something in this morning and when I tried to close it the darn thing kept bouncing right back up. So I luckily brought it directly to the dealership who was able to get me an appt. at 11:30 the same day. By 11:45 I got a call that the trunk latch was faulty and had been replaced and the car was ready to go.It was really annoying because there is no way to actually tie down the trunk if it won't close, so I had to drive to the dealership with my trunk open! You'd think they could have put some type of clips or hooks to hook up.
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As the title says....sometimes the trunk does not latch unless I close it hard. Is this normal for a SC? Why?
I took some pictures of the hook and the latch so what is wrong:
First, the hook:
A couple of views of the latch:
I cannot tell if something is wrong....other than a slight dent on the outside perimeter of the latch housing?
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I have an 03 GLI and am having a little issue. My passenger front door won't latch. The tumbler, for lack of a better word, is in the proper position and swings freely; but it never catches. If I use a screwdriver I can push it all the way back; but there's not so much as a click when it gets all the way back and just swings back out.
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My latch wont open at all! When i first bought the car the trunk would open but Im not sure what had happened to it. The key doesn't work at all but every time I press the button on my key too open it or from the button on the floor it makes the noise that it unlocked but its still shut??!!?! Maybe I thought it was the fuse but I had changed fuse 15 still nothing any body experienced this before seems too be a common problem. Should I just go through the front and take the panels off for the hatch and diagnose whats wrong with it?
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I did my ball joints, and the drivers side oem manual locking hub was a bear to wiggle out but eventually came. When I put it back in after I finished, the wire retaining ring clicked into place but wasn't seated as far in as the passenger side (I could still see the wire). Didn't think much of it. Drove off. 30 miles later I heard a pop and saw the hub rolling down the road behind me.
Stopped and picked it up, went home managed to find a pair of locking rings i kept off my Dana 50, and I just cannot get it to go far enough in for the snap ring to fully seat in the groove. I tried tapping the axle further in, I tried tapping on the steel part of the hub with a deadblow, but it feels like it's in as far as it will go. Not sure what to do, driving without a locking hub right now.
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I had problems this morning opening my hood, the latch was real tight so pulled it and it released but not all the way. I tried opening the hood but it's stuck and won't even closed either. It's there a trick or some other lever I'm missing? I never had to do it before.
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