Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Hesitation Like Feel Between 2000 - 3000rpm
Apr 20, 2013
I am going to be looking into this a little bit tomorrow with an oil change and noisy hub bearing.
Car : 2002 Jetta GLS 1.8t stock 5spd ~165k miles
Symptoms : Light acceleration (day to day), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to 2-2500 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Moderate acceleration (casual hwy on ramp, stoplight fun), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 25-2800 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Hard acceleration (short hwy on ramp), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 28-3100 range. I do not feel any symptoms noted above.
The hesitation felt is enough to cause the car to feel like it had a short loss of power. This does give a jerky feel.
My thoughts : I know there were issues with the coils in this model/year. I have verified through the deal that the vin had received the replacements but unsure if they are the actual replacements. My dad thinks it may be turbo related (which is also stock and never pulled apart to my knowledge).
I found that this KO3s turbo should be fully spooled about 2200rpms. It seems to coincide with my lower rpm accel that maybe I am loosing some of the spool and feeling that?
Other Info : Am I way off or is there anything I can check for easily? I am not very knowledgeable in turbos beyond their basic functions. This is also my first turbo car. I have owned the car 2yrs now. It seemed to have always been there but I don't recall noticing it on the initial test drive. The trans has been replaced since noticing this for other reasons but did not correct this.
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So,I have a mk4 GTI vr6 . I've got an idle that moves about 25 rmps up and down. As well as the throttle hesitation between 2.000 and 3500 rpms only at mid throttle. Has a kinda new maf. That I cleaned. clean THrottle body kinda new coil pack and wires , new plugs. Tried a lot it all worked but it's still there.
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I just purchased a 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg with the 1.8T, 5 speed, and 169,000 miles. I need to figure out the engine hiccups. The check engine light is on. The car seems to hesitate between 2000-3000 rpm when the motor is lugged (pulling a hill, passing, etc).
I had the codes pulled at Autozone and came up with the following.
P0172 (Bank 1 System Too Rich)
P0300 (Random Multiple Misfire)
P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
P0420 (Catalyst System Below)
P0455 (Evaporator Emission)
P0411 (Secondary Air Injector Incorrect)
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I noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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My car has the wavy acceleration feel and sometimes hesitates a bit. It is way worse when the a/c is on. I wonder if this is a octane or spark plug issue. On my old cruze 1.4t the gap was wrong from the factory. It came with all four gaped under .022 but the manual called for .028. Everyone gaped to .035 with great results. Checking the spark plugs?
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What are the symptoms of a bad o2 sensor, 2.0.. My son is having some problems with his car hesitating when he gets into the throttle and the only codes we are getting shows bad O2 sensor pre cat.
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Have a 2004 Jetta, 2.0L BEV auto..has 124,800 miles on it...when cruising on the highway the car seems to momentarily lose power like as if i let off the gas. Car has the original everything for the most part. Did the water pump and timing belt 2k miles ago. Maybe alternator? fuel delivery?
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I have a VW golf 2.0L AEG with 5 speed manual with 150,000 miles. Lately, it has been hesitating when I accelerate, not all the time but intermittently. It also shakes when I downshift, especially in lower gears. I have replaced the dog bone, the spark plugs, fuel filter, clean the MAF and tried another ignition coil. Nothing really worked. The only that worked a little (like a day) is when I disconnected the MAF sensor. I tried to do it again without much success. I scanned the car with VAG COM and I have no code.
The original clutch and original fuel pump are on the car. I checked the timing belt and it is in good shape. I was thinking that I may need a new clutch but I don't have nay slipping, just the vibrations when I downshift. I thought maybe the motor mounts are bad but I don't see excessive play when I rev up the engine. I sprayed the spark plug wires and ignition coil with water without any issues. What I should do next? Motor mounts or clutch? Bring it to VW for diagnosis?
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Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
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I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
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I decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
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2003, Jetta 1.8t, 5 speed, 76,500 miles ... The other day I was driving and all of a sudden I had a hesitation in 3rd gear. I have relized since that this hesitation occurs in 3rd 4th and 5th gear, but not 1st or 2nd. I am going to change the spark plugs tomorrow in hope to fix this problem. The hesitation occurs whenever you get into the gas and begin to accelerate(typically around 3000RPM and up). There are no dash lights on at all and the cars is running fine besides the hesitation.
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The Electronic Power Control light in my 1999.5 Jetta GLS VR6 came on a day or two ago. Now it hesitates like crazy even after I've already pulled out and am trying to accelerate. Is there any common problem/malfunction that would cause the light to come on, and is there any correlation between the light and this symptom? Also, the check engine light came on.
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I switched my front rotors 4 times in the last 4 years.
I know you probably thinking its the driver. I've owned the car since 2012 and have only put on 46000 kms.
The rotors vibrate and have that weird stop and go hesitation when braking.
Is it simply OEM or nothing?
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I had a motor go bad, overheated, replaced it with another motor. Got it all back together and upon test drive I am having a low rpm (below 3k) bad hesitation/misfire. The engine runs just fine at wide open throttle.
First thing i checked for were plug wires and vacuum leaks. The only difference between the old block and the new block is the fact that i replaced the MAF with a new one, as i was getting a maf code on the old engine. I can't get it to throw a code...
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I have been experiencing this one for quite a while now. The car is a 2003 GTI VR6 24v. It is stock other than a 3" hole in the bottom of the airbox to pull in cooler air.
When I am sitting in traffic, and in 1st or 2nd gear, keeping a consistent speed (10-15mph) and application of the throttle (not moving my foot at all), the car sometimes just decelerates/hesitates/bucks a little by itself, and kind of feels like it is hiccuping or not getting enough air or something.
At high rpm, or in any gear above 2nd, I don't feel the hesitation and the engine runs great and pulls hard. No MIL lights on the dash, and no other problems with it.
Is this normal for manual VW's? Or maybe the hesitation coming from the engine not getting a consistent airflow from the hole in the airbox?
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So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
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Recently I switched from Revo software with 440cc injectors to Unitronic with Siemens 630cc injectors. After swapping, the car has developed a hesitation issue. It only happens when driving a consistent speed in one gear, for example going 45 in 5th, the car will feel jumpy and hesitate to accelerate with a seeming loss of power. Replaced spark plugs with new ones and the problem still persists. Problem never happened with old software and injectors.
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When i got my 2000 jetta vr6 it has a CEL for misfires. Searched this board and google already. Im thinking injectors (havent checked yet) I noticed something weird the other day. At a light i get the CEL flashing. Then after a bit it will come on and stay on. I plugged in my generic reader and deleted the codes. When the CEL is on I get loss of power and hesitation. When its deleted the car runs better. I get my power back. I looked in the coolant tank and see no bubbles. Could this be the ECM? Im still going to get injectors but want to buy the gasket and anything else I am going to need to put it back together. I already cleaned the MAF, replaced some vac lines, coil pack, wires and checked plugs (gapped at .28) ...
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I replaced the thermostat in my 2000 3.1L Grand Prix SE yesterday. I had to remove the throttle body to get access to it. After putting it all back together, my car now idles around 3000rpm in Park or Neutral. It drops to around 2k when driving which is still a little high. I can definitely feel it taking off faster and it seems to buck a little bit here and there while driving. I did hear a loud hissing sound when I first started it up right around the throttle body area. I don't hear the hissing sound anymore, though. It justs sounds like it's running a lot harder. So my question is, would a leak around the throttle body (I did not use a new gasket and it's possible that the gasket wasn't properly seated) cause these symptoms? On the plus side, my car seemed to heat up super fast!
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