Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Heater Control Valve Replacement
Jul 13, 2016
Replacing a heater control valve for a 2004 Jetta? My car's vents only blow hot, and I checked the cables and saw that the control arm was disconnected. I tried to put the cylinder piece back in and had some luck, but I can't get it to sit tightly in there and it keeps falling out. Also, it still wont change the temperature coming out of the vents. I assume that something broke on the inside piece that the cylinder connected to.
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Here is an example of what mine kind of looks like, but mine is way more loose.
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I did a valve cover gasket replacement. Changed all spark plugs and coilpacks. The car is still misfiring. I also just did the timing belt and water pump. Why it's still misfiring?? I'm new to this whole forum thing so bear with me lol. I'm wondering if it would be my cat, fuel pump, fuel filter. Or could it be a sensor?
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In order to replace the valve cover do the spark plugs have to be taken off ?
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Just replaced one outer tie rod end on my 2003 GLI yesterday. (ran out of daylight to do other side, now have another problem)...
Everything came apart and went back together fine with really no fighting. Got the alignment close, but will still need one done once I finish up.
Anyways, I am wondering what I possibly could have screwed up, because after a few miles of driving the traction control light (circle with triangle in the middle) came on and now won't go away. I didn't screw with any wires while I was in there. Pretty straight forward job, so I thought. I don't have a VAGCOM but there's no engine codes stored.
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Where Gen5 Camry heater control tab/valve is located? I can't seem to find in engine bay. Is it in cabin under dash? Under drivers side dash, I can only see heater control valve cable. I have got a hot coolant coming to heater core, so heater control valve must have gone bad.
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While diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
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Bought my Ranger brand new, and I try to maintain it well. Most of the 90,000 miles are highway. Anyway, the OEM coolant was supposed to be good for 100K miles, but since I hadn't done anything in 89K, i have a lengthy commute and the coolant was getting discolored, I figured that no harm would come in having a drain/refill. This was approx. The heat worked flawlessly. Fast forward two weeks, and my local shop performed an oil change (not the quick lube that did the coolant replacement). I was informed of three things:
1) my coolant was low,
2) my heater control valve was leaking (which I was shown), and
3) when hoisted I was shown that a slight residue of coolant -- not necessarily fresh -- was on my water pump.
I was told that 'down the road sometime a water pump could be in my future'. Again, the heat worked flawlessly, and I didn't want to be out-and-about in winter and run out of coolant. So, the shop replaced my heater control valve and topped off the coolant (approx. 1/2 - 1 gallon). Heat worked flawlessly. The last couple days, I noticed two things.
First, heat trickles out on low and medium setting, and second, it takes a long time to warm the vehicle. So, my limited research tells me two things. If coolant is present, and I have heat (of some sort), then, the water pump and heater core are probably fine. Diagnosis says to check the thermostat first, correct?
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My 06 accent GLS has become difficult to start only after refueling, which I'm guessing is related to a bad purge control valve from what I've read. Where exactly is the valve located, and is this something that someone with relatively little automotive repair experience could do on their own? I think I've located it on the backside of the engine near the air intake.
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02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
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2004 Prius, 98K miles ... I recently replaced the coolant control valve (received code P1121) and added coolant. Trouble codes were cleared. I am now getting the red triangle intermittently. When I drive the car, after a few minutes, the red triangle comes on. I can shut off the car, and turn it back on, and the red triangle comes back after a few minutes. The car seems to drive normally.
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I just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
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I was getting a check engine light with a P1112 code, so I had a mechanic replace the coolant flow control valve. There's a TSB on that and it seems to be the thing to do. But after the replacement, I'm getting overheat warning light whenever the engine needs to work hard. Also, the cabin heater only works when the gasoline engine is not running... when the engine is off, I get heat (though it's not as hot as I'd think when I have it on max heat), but when the gas engine kicks in, the cabin heat disappears.
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We have a 2010 corolla S and the heater knob control bulb is gone. How do I replace this?
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I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
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The heater control knob cracked on my 2011 Ford F150. Where I can get a replacement and how to take that off?
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I have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
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A couple months ago I was hearing a hissing noise under the hood throwing the same code replaced the Valve cover, after there was no issues. Yesterday saw I had CEL and I was throwing P0174 code and there is a similar vacuum leak sound coming from under the hood but the Breather in the valve cover is not sucking in air. The Oil cap comes off but the engine starts to bog, what it could be now?
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I was driving today and had my heater on.. and after a while the control panel went out.. no lights no nothing.
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I bought a Jetta 1.8t few month ago and a hose is missing on the n75. The car run great but it boosts inconstantly (someday it boost at 16 psi peak and another day it doesn't pass 10 psi). Today I bought a hose that I connected to the turbo inlet pipe and now it never pass 10-11 psi. Did I do something wrong? Or my car isn't chip and the previous owner did that to increase the boost?
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I connected the hose there ....
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Just got this vr6 a week ago and noticed what sounds like a valve clicking, I thought maybe it was low on oil or something, so I just changed the oil and filter yesterday, clicking was gone from what i could hear. Start up today to go to work, clicking is back, I've noticed after the engine heats up the clicking subsides, but when you first start up I'm hearing it tick in the same area. Thinking maybe a intake/fuel cleaner next? My other 24v never did this. I've never taken it over 3k or anything until after it's warmed up.
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I drive a 2003 24V VR6 GLI
I recently did a valve cover repair to stop the dreaded misfire problem. Well, I'm still waiting on a few things but during the spark plug change obviously some of the oil from where the valve cover leaked previously fell into the pistons because I couldn't really clean it all out efficiently. This seems like it would cause a lot of problems? Do you think I should throw old spark plugs in there and let all the oil burn up before finally replacing them? I really don't want to foul up my brand new NGK's.
Also, I pulled p0300, p0305, p0306, so I am guessing oil in the spark plug/coil pack connection may cause some of the misfires, but do you think two of my coil packs are bad still? My plan was to move them around to see what happens after I get the new parts and am actually running again.
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