Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Headlight Not Working When Switched On
Mar 31, 2016
I have an 01gti glx and my headlights are not working when i turn my headlight switch on. They work just fine when i release the ebrake just not working with the switch! I checked the fuses under the dash and all were good.
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In my 2001 2.0, my AC has been blowing hot air for a while now. It was intermittent at first but now is constant.
The compressor runs without going off when the AC is switched on. I can tell because I see the compressor clutch engaged and spinning.
I tested with AC manifold gauges and these are the readings I got.
Engine off : Low is 0, High is 135
Engine on, AC on full blast after running 10 min at 1500 RPM:
Low is 4, High is 135
Looks pretty bad.
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Went from this
to this
But now for some reason both of my reverse lights aren't working...
Since my first post the jetta has come a long way. still has a longer way to go.
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2008 Prius... The right side main head lamp sometimes does not come on when I switch on the lights, this started happening about 10 days ago, rarely at first, about 50% of the time now.
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So my headlight switch is literally On/Off. I disabled the DRL by folding down the pin inside. But I am replacing my headlights with a custom projector housing with HID lows, halogen highs, LED Fogs, and CCFL halos, so I'd like the ability to turn on just parking lights or just the fog lights to show off the Halos etc. If I pick up a Bora Switch that has these features, will I have to re-wire/run through fuse box, etc.
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I have the lights all taken apart but I can't really see how they would come out.. Are they pressed in? Screwed in?
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I replaced some TYC OEM headlights on my car with stock OEM Hella headlights and cleaned up the lenses really nice.
Once installed, I went to adjust the headlights to find out that the passenger outer adjustment just spins.
This is the one in the photo:
I am not too sure if I can fix this. The little wheel doesn't seem like it can be removed and it has some back and forth play on it.
Need to successfully repaired headlight adjustment?
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I got my jetta over a year ago, and during that time I've accidentally left the lights on a number of times. But just a few days ago it started making a tone when I leave the lights on. Is there some way to turn that feature on and off, or was something wrong that mysteriously healed itself?
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Headlight bulbs. So I am looking to replace my bulbs because mine don't seem to have that great of light output. I am not sure if it is the actual headlight or if it is just the bulbs? Is it possible to just replace the bulbs and get better light output? I am not sure of the brand of headlights I have but I am pretty sure they are some cheap aftermarket ebay headlights. I want to replace the headlights in the future but for now I was wondering if I can get away with just replacing the bulbs. When selecting the bulbs, are they all pretty much universal or do I have to buy specifically for the type of headlights I have?
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So car not turning over after replacing (right side) headlight assembly. Was turning over prior. Replaced the battery, same result.
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So sometimes my front drivers headlight and drivers taillight decides not to work. Sometimes one will work and the other wont and other times they all will be working fine. I've checked the fuses and the bulbs and they both are fine.
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My high beam doesnt work. I have a Euro Passat with H7. I bought new H7 yesterday but still no luck.
I have switched fuses to new ones.
Is there anything else I can check?
Is there relays on this model for the high beams?
Low beams works fine and everything else in lights.
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Last summer, driving my 2003 Audi A4, my A/C suddenly stopped working, and the "econ" button couldn't be switched off. I took it to my mechanic, who said that a loose screw had blown a hole through my A/C compressor (image attached). Not only was my A/C not working, but I had to pay $1400 right then and there to get a new compressor installed. As I understand it, the compressor in my car is run by the timing belt and if it jammed, it could ruin the engine. So I paid up, but still didn't get have the A/C fixed.
My mechanic told me that the hole blown through the compressor had sent shards of aluminum throughout the A/C system. So to fix the A/C, he'd have to flush the whole system and replace parts throughout the car... probably adding up to north of $3,000. Definitely not worth it, considering the total value of the car.
Any second opinions? Is there an easier way to flush the A/C system? As far as I understand, with my new compressor, all the parts of my A/C system work fine, but I just gotta get all the aluminum shards out.
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A fault has returned. Last spring the 1.6 diesel Golf (105HP) would not start.
The RAC first diagnosed a faulty battery and replaced it. Then they diagnosed a faulty start solenoid.
My local service garage replaced the starter. Had good reliable starting for 6months. Two days ago my car would not start.
RAC diagnosed a suspect poor engine earth strap. "Get it fixed."
But when I got home and switched off, I noticed that the radiator fan had turned on at full speed. and ran and ran very noisily. I switched on the ignition and the fan went off.
Switched off the ignition and near silence, A little background hum and this stopped when the dash went out about a 20second delay. Then about 30seconds later the fan came on at full speed.
I checked again about 15minutes later, still full speed.
Attached my battery charger, so that I would not have a flat battery in the morning. It finally went off after about 40minutes.
Last night I came home and the same fan on after a delay of about a minute after switch off.
This time the fan was still running after 90minutes. Attached the battery charger again and went to bed.
The fan was off at 0730hrs, but at 0745hrs it was back on after standing in sub zero conditions all night.
Even with the charger working the battery is virtually flat, because the fan is drawing more current than the charger can supply.
I disconnected the battery and it's on charge now. Hopefully It'll have enough charge to get me to the shops and back (22mile round trip and typical of my running, the nearest big town is 20 miles away). What is going on?
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So according to the manual that comes with the car, "ESC is switched on all the time." There are only instructions for turning off traction control.
Why Electronic Stability Control sucks: "Then there is the ESP. I don't even plan on bringing this car to the track until this is resolved. Last thing I need is the car thinking it needs to pull my throttle or apply the brakes because it thinks I'm 'out of control.' That is just an accident waiting to happen."
So how to turn off stability control yet? I'm kind of hoping APR (or any other tuner) would include some sort of flash with their tune that makes the 'ESP OFF' button also disable stability control (and not just traction control).
These guys disabled ESP by pulling a fuse. the only problem is that it also disables ABS and a couple lights : [URL] ....
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem?I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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Today I pulled off the front bumper assembly to install an oil pressure gauge. The wire that goes from the sender to the gauge I pulled through A rubber boot that had a cluster of wires located next to the driver side windshield wiper, I pulled the wire through with a coathanger or I could've scratched another wire which is causing the gas pedal not to work? Or could it be when I pulled off the bumper assembly something unplugged or broke? VW GTI VR6.......
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After a long day at disney, we walked to the car, and couldn't remember where we parked. I kept pushing the panic button looking for the car (I read pressing buttons too many times out of range can cause it to un-sync from the car, might not be true though?). Well now my keyfob won't do anything except start the car. I normally wouldn't care at all but I can't lock my driver door.
For some reason my key won't turn right to lock the door, and will only turn left to unlock (not sure if that's just how it's supposed to be). I tried something that I was pointed to in a thread on here [URL].... but could not get it to work. I don't have 2 keyfobs, just one and a valet key. I put a brand in battery in the key hoping that would work, but still nothing. I don't live in the best area and I'm desperately trying to find a way to lock my door without having to go to a dealership and shell out a bunch of money.
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About a week ago I turned on the Climatronic a/c in my 99.5 GTI for the first time since I bought the car. Everything worked fine until a bug splattered my windshield. I sprayed washer fluid and the wiper moved extremely slowly to the halfway point and then stopped. The wipers have always moved slowly since I got it about 6 or 7k km ago but have never become stuck. I turned off the a/c and let the car sit for a while turned off. When I turned it on again, the wipers worked fine but the were noticeably slower then before.
Cut to a few days later, I turn on the wipers to test it out and it gets stuck again, this time about 3 inches from the bottom. I can hear them clicking as if they are restarting the cycle, but it only twitches.
Cut to now, the wipers try to move every time I turn the key to ACC, as well as twitching when the car starts. When I start driving, after approx. 2 minutes my ABS light comes on and doesn't go away until I shut off the car.
I have provided a video. This is my only car and there's rain coming up in the forecast ...
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A couple months ago my Key Fob stopped working. I tried using the button and then tried to use the key to unlock the door. I'm trying to figure out if there is a possibility that the immobilizer in my fob is junk or maybe its something as easy as changing the battery (which is another issue in itself because I cant open the fob for the life of me) Once again just curious if there is something I can do to fix this issue without contacting and dealing with the dealership. Would like to be able to lock my car again at some point.
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My, auxilary cooling fan isn't working. However, the bigger (primary) fan is working fine. Fuses, looks ok and i see clutch is engaging fine too. well, the a/c is working but not as it used to before. Its cold but very faintly. I suppose this could be because of the not working auxiliary fan.
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