Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Hard To Start In The Morning / Sometimes Idles At 500 Or Lower
Dec 5, 2014
So the car is a 1999 golf gti with a 2.0 AEG with a 5 speed manual. My brothers car. He has been telling me its been hard starting in the mornings for a couple months, sometimes it dies, sometimes it idles at 500 or lower, he has to rev it up to 1500 to get it to warm up then in kinda stays normal till he cold starts the car again, then does it all over. So he was driving down to my house to leave it with me to look at and on the way over he heres a big bang. has the car towed over here.
Cyl #3 has backed itself out and clearly a serious misfire, threads look fine so I put all new plugs in oem ngk three prong, runs ok still too low 400/600 stalling a couple times. this morning i installed new wires (Bosch)and a coil (aftermarket) and it barely wants to run now, stalled instantly. So I put the old coil back in and it stays running but watching the motor, its clearly misfiring. No codes as of yet and i have no access to vagcom. I've checked the firing order and wire placement on coil like 8 times to make sure it is correct.
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I'm not sure if this qualifies for a "cold start" but my 1.8T sounds imperfect when I start it for the first time of the day. It'll rev around 1200 RPM, instead of the normal 800RPM idle if I start it after it had recently been turned off for a short period.
It sounds almost like my old car that had an exhaust leak, but not as obnoxious. When it settles back down to 800RPM it really purrs and sounds great. Is this normal?
2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T, not sure if I wrote that in my profile yet. 41k miles and recently serviced for 40k milage. Has sounded this way before and after the service.
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ok so let me start by saying, my name is Tim, I own a 1999 Ford Ranger 6 cyl, 3.0L truck, I bought it brand new in 1999 and drove it for a few years and then took it off the road for 3-4 years then last year I went to put it back on the road and I couldn't get it running.
I took it to the dealer and they replaced a key switch module. since then the ranger seems to lack power. It also idles erratically when you first start it in the morning too.
not sure whats going on here but the engine light is on,
I get codes P0171 & P0174 (too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2)
I would also like to note that I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, transmission filter, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, PCV valve, EGR valve, TPS sensor, idle control solenoid, fuel pressure regulator & new plugs. I have also checked for vacuum leaks with no avail.
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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Recently, I have a weird issue on my car starting problem, 2005 I4. This happened after I replaced the upper engine mount (dog bone). When I left my car parked overnight and try to start in the morning, it makes a very slow start (Ruff Ruff noise). I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it starts. All the lights are still bright when I get to the car in the morning. The car has no issue at all when starts it during daytime or when I park car at work (about 8 hrs.). I checked and cleaned the ground terminals and make sure everything is tight.
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My 93 impreza does not want to start in the morning when it does it will not want to run very good till it warms up.
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I drive a 12-year-old Honda CRV with 185K miles on it.
Recently, I had the car in the shop to fix an oil leak in the engine. I also had the catalytic converter replaced, since its connection point was badly rusted. Since I got the car back, I have been experiencing intermittent trouble accelerating the engine when I first start up in the morning. The engine idle sounds normal at first, but when I take my foot off the brake and put it on the accelerator, nothing happens for several seconds. Eventually, the engine seems to kick in and accelerates almost normally, though a bit more slowly than it used to.
The problem seems better if I make sure to rev the engine loudly when I first start it up and worse if the weather is damp or it has been raining since I last drove. After a few minutes of driving, the problem has always gone away so far, but it is nerve-wracking to pull up to an intersection, stop, and then have trouble accelerating to get through it, especially when there is oncoming traffic on the cross street.
Does this sound like a problem with the idling, or am I experiencing the beginning of transmission trouble, or could it be something else? Is it likely to get worse over time?
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Last Saturday I got gas on my way home from work then let my car sit all day. Sunday morning i go to start my car and it starts terribly along with a very rough idle. The ride to work was hideous as the car could barely climb a hill (max 25mph and high RPMs 3000 to 4000). Along with bad hill climbing power the car could barely get to 60mph.
I added a bottle of Gumout as I thought I might have gotten bad gas this had no result. While trying to figure out what was wrong I also replaced the air filter.
Fast forward to Tuesday I decide to inspect the fuses in the car and under the hood (all of which looks in good condition). I started the car before i went inside and it seemed the same as it has been all week. Wednesday morning I go to leave and the car refuses to start. It tries to start but immediately quits and then shakes wildly while trying to start. I have since changed the fuel filter, replaced 5 ignition coils, and given it 5 new spark plugs. The car is still doing the exact same thing it was Wednesday morning.
This is a VW Jetta 2005 2.5 Engine
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I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra has great difficulty starting first thing in the morning if it has not been driven for a day or two. Once I finally get it started, it runs fine all day. My mechanic has finally traced the problem, after keeping the car over the weekend. He says 3 or the 4 injectors have very tiny leaks and so a few drops of gas are leaking into wherever. They put something in the injectors they thought might solve the problem, but I won't know until I leave it for several days and then need to start it.
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The last couple days the truck has been a hard start in the morning. about 28 deg F. I thought the glow plugs were getting weak or a couple of them were out.
Hooked up my AE and pulled codes, one of them was P0261 # 1 inj. Truck is fully warmed up and is running fine. Did a koer glow plug test and it came back ok. Power balance looks good now.
Probably looked different when I finally got it started this morning. Took 3 cranks to get her going and it sounded like crap till it got a bit warmer.
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I have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
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Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
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I just replaced my injectors in my 12v vr6 and now having some problems. Mainly having issues with start up. Having to feather the gas to get it to start and still runs rough for a min or two.
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2004 PD TDI. been a little hard to start these days, hot or cold, and suddenly dies on me in middle of the road. Tank pump is working, new fuel filter so lots of fuel. Replaced engine speed sensor as there was no tach function. Glow plug light comes on, so ECU has power. Not a hiccup. Don't have the advanced VW diagnostic software, just generic scan tool. No engine codes.
I checked the wiring diagram in my manual and it shows 3 wires to speed sensor, one of which should be ground. getting various resistances across all 3 to ground (measuring through the ecu end of the connector, sensor unplugged), but no direct to ground which seems strange, but I'm not sure I trust the Haynes manual as the colour codes listed aren't the same as in my car - I've got white brown and black, and none show direct ground. Not sure if it matters as it's only a shield anyway.
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I have a 2008 2.4L Sonata GLS with 96K mi. It is hard to start and idles rough. I cleaned some components and changed spark plugs. I disconnected the negative battery cable to see if it would reset and relearn settings. Took a 15 mi drive and read codes and P0016 was pending, it was still idling rough and acceleration was still under par. I then cleared the code. I purchased a new cam sensor and compared the Ohm readings between the old and new Cam position sensor. The Ohm readings were different by 50% so I assumed the old was indeed bad.
I installed the new sensor, repeated battery disconnect for 10 min, then restarted engine. It was still idling rough (maybe a little better) so I rechecked for codes. P0016 was still a pending code. I cleared the code and P0016 cam right back. The battery is good (no charging issues), timing chain is original (no noise). Is there a way to test the crank position sensor before buying a new one? I've also seen in posts the Oil Control Valve (OCV) affects timing and seems to be a problem for these vehicles, however I have not received that code (P0011). I can limp it to work but will have to take it in if I cannot solve this soon. If it ends up being a timing chain problem what ballpark price should I expect to pay to have it done.
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After sitting engine cranks longer than it usually did before it starts. idles a little rough. engine light comes on after it been running about 30 sec for 1 min. after that seems to run fine.check codes po446 and p1633 always come up. if you let sit a bit with key on starts right up.replaced gas cap checked evap lines, and changed filter no luck. Did notice with lines off evap solenoid key off or on i can blow through it. that doesn't sound right.
Checked fuel pressure. key on jumps to 90psi then falls to 55psi and stays. turn off key and leaked off 10psi in 5 min.start engine while watching gauge does the same as when the key on except it falls to 30 to 35 psi and bounces between them. i think this is way low. What is the correct pressure? Shut off engine and drops to 20 in 5 min. Next I plugged line on test tee going to fuel rail and tested same results as key on. the convinced fuel pump was bad since regulator and check is there. replaced pump. problem still there.
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1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
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i have a 1994 mitsubishi diamante 3.0 sohc hard to start and idles real rough. it has new plugs,wires,cap,rotor button,fuel filter,and air filter.fuel pressure is between 45 and 50psi which is good i have good compression on all cylinders timing belt is good and i am getting spark to all plugs. with the car running i pull the plug wires off and cylinders 1 3 5 makes a difference but 2 4 6 their is no change.the car was setting for two years.it dose have new gas.the check engine light is not on and has no codes.
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Having trouble with my '00 Jetta 2.0 A/T w/ 98K miles. Had the water pump replaced @ a year ago (for the 2nd time, the 1st replacement died after <15K miles.) The car has had issues with rough idle when started, especially with a cold engine, since before the 2nd water pump. I've replaced the coil pack, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor in the recent past in addition to the water pump & timing belt.
The gas mileage sucks, and when it's idling rough it doesn't "idle up", & will stall if the gas pedal is pressed with 30 secs. of starting. Otherwise it seems to run fine. The coolant temp. sensor was replaced after a CEL indicating it was bad. The CEL went off after it was replaced, but it's now throwing a P1296 Cooling System Malfunction. I have noticed the temperature gauge fluctuates instead of staying around the "middle" since the 2nd water pump replacement, and will run "colder" in colder weather. Since spring is here, the temp. gauge stays around "normal", or the middle.
Some research online says thermostat OR coolant temperature sensor. Since the gauge registers normal now, I'm leaning towards a bad temp. sensor...?
Does the hard start/rough idle and the cooling system malfunction CEL could be related?
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
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