Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Getting Multiple Codes After New Trans Installed
Feb 22, 2016
I finished installing an auto out of a 1999 beetle into my 2000 golf. I used the beetle TCM now it wont shift out of 3rd. If I manually start in first it will shift up to 3rd but nothing past 3rd. I had it scanned with a generic scanner and these are the codes. P1780, P1783, P0725. I researched the heck out of this and I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to take it and have a vag com hooked up to make sure the ecm and the new tcm are talking? It seems others have had these issues and I thought it might be solenoids but that's not what's coming up.
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So my car has been dropping multiple codes after I scanned her and found all five: p0303, p1128, p0172, p1300, p0301. She is just a simple five speed AEG and has no mods other than a SRI. I already replaced the MAF but that ended up causing more codes and I have checked the vacuum lines to no avail.
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I was driving down the road when my car (02 GTI 12v VR6) suddenly died. I pulled off and tried to restart it. It sounded weird, kind of metallic like maybe the clutch went out. It seemed to be firing, but would not turn over so I stopped trying for fear of damaging something. I thought the timing chain may have come loose, however I didn't hear anything catastrophic like valves breaking so if that's the case then hopefully it only jumped a tooth or two. I scanned it and a bunch of codes came back. I did have the battery out for a while before scanning so I'm not sure if some of the Central Convenience codes are due to that or not.
Here's the full scan:
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,16,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
[Code] .....
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I bought my 2001 Jetty w/2.0 only yesterday. While I was looking under the hood this morning, I noticed there was no fans running while engine was going so I took a trip to local auto parts store. O'Reilly's hooked up my Jetty and told me there was four error codes but they weren't sure what they meant. Here are the codes: P0302, P0301, P1128,and P1580. I have no clue of what these errors mean. I am not familiar with Volkswagen at all and there are no volkswagen dealerships close.
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The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
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Car was taking 3-4 seconds to turn over when I started it one night. After that, flashing CEL and then CEL stayed. Car idles ridiculously rough, thought it was just a coil pack but seems to be a lot more. What is going on with my car?
Performance mods:
APR intake (stage 1&2)
SPM track edition turboback
Stage 2 revo software
R8 coilpacks and NGK plugs put in 9-10k miles ago
Have 52k miles on the car if that matters
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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Im driving to waterfest with 3 passengers Will this do any harm to the bags with all the extra weight?
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I have a touchscreen that the dealership provided me but with the catch that I've got to install it myself, pretty sure it has something to do with the state the previous stereo was taken out, all I'm left with are a cluster of wires none of which I know are for what.
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My 2004 1.8T GTI is having a weird issue. It's had 3 coolant leaks in the past 3 months. Every time I get one leak fixed it goes leak free for a couple weeks, but then a new leak pops up in a new place.
First leak was a cracked coolant bottle. Second was a flange near the bottle on passenger side. The newest leak is on the driver side. Car hasn't ever overheated.
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It all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
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Replaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
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Okay just installed a newer 24v into my existing 24v VR6 GTI both with 135k. I have heard the motor run before it was pulled and sold to which sounded fine. Upon receiving the motor I put new timing chains, guides, headgasket and new gaskets all around. The timing was right on the mark and I tightened everything up to torque spec and I'm getting this noise which sounds like it's from the timing cover area. A code just popped on which I'm going to scan as soon as I get my hands on one. The car was running great for about 20 minute and I shut it off then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and experiencing these scary noises. I tried pulling each individual coil with no results to get the noise away. What could this be?
[URL] .....
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I am fixing up a Mrk IV Golf. One of problems I am having is that the brakes are not firm despite being bleed multiple times. The brakes work but the pedal does not inspire confidence, and I know there is braking performance being left on the table. The brakes are to large and the car is to small to brake as slow as it does. Are Golfs a cross bleed system? I have be bleeding them like I would on an old American car, which is what I normally work on.
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I have a 1999.5 Jetta VR6 12v, last week the car would not start. After some tests I determined the coil pack had gone bad. Replaced the Coil with a brand New aftermarket German made coil. Now 1 week later, driving at highway speed CEL came on, started to flash and obviously misfiring again. Ran Codes and now im getting these DTC's:
1)random multiple cylinder misfire detected p0300
2) cylinder 4 misfire detected p0304
3) ignition coil output 3 electric malfunction p1395
4) cylinder 3 misfire detected p0303
has this new coil gone bad already after a week?
New issue?
Plugs were replaced less than a year ago, wires were apparently replaced by previous owner about 2 years ago now. Crank sensor replaced less than a week ago...
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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Last Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
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Just today I noticed my car boosting to around 1.2bar instead of the usual 1.4bar. The car is boosting to around 1.2 then dropping off to around a bar.
The only thing that I did was install a forge splitter. I presumed that the splitter valve was the issue and promptly put my 007p back on but still had the same issue.
During the process of adjusting the splitter valve I got limp mode several times. I much prefer the 007p and will be keeping that and selling the splitter. What may have happened?
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After installing a new crank position sensor on my 05 GTI 1.8T would I have to recalibrate my ECM, my car will not start.
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just picked up this 99 Jetta with about 150,000 miles and while driving all of a sudden i had extreme power loss, shaking and shuddering, and the engine light came on. My code reader found multiple random misfires cylinder 1 and 4 codes P0300, P0301, and P0304.
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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