I'm bench testing my starter and wanted to make sure that it's working as it should before I install it. The plunger comes out and the gear spins as expected, but it takes a second for the gear to pop back in after I disconnect it. I'm worried that it might get stuck on the flywheel if the return spring isn't working as it should.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
View 12 RepliesI recently changed my starter and disconnected the battery and tried using a memory saver connected to the cigarette lighter socket with a 9v, but after I got the car back on there's no sound coming from the radio. Comes on no problem, but no sound at all in tuner, bluetooth, or cd mode. This is also an aftermarket radio and I have disconnected the battery plenty of times before and never had this problem.
This is the first time I used a memory saver though, so not sure if that had something to do with it.
Now that the summer has finally arrived the southern Finland I found a problem with my climate control. When the car gets hot from the sun and the climate control starts cooling it takes up to 2 minutes until I get cold air from the vents. It doesn't matter if I let it run on the AUTO-mode or that I turn the temperature all the way to the LOwest position with full "thrust".
I checked the service history of my car and the AC has been serviced and filled last summer. (the basic fast service method). I didn't want to service it again since I'm afraid that all that money would have gone to waste. I haven't found any leaks tho. The radiator is pretty beaten up from all the debris and road salt tho.
The backup camera under the vw logo staying open. Mine takes at least 10 seconds to close, and if I don't wait and turn off the car, it will remain open which prevent you from opening the hatch. It's become extremely annoying, especially Christmas shopping in the rain!!
View 11 RepliesSo I'm also noticing my car occasionally makes a huge thud sound from time to time when I put it into two certain gears. From park to reverse it's not loud but there's a little noise, but from any gear into Drive it's sometimes a loud boom and the car shakes. My pops mentioned to me this is dangerous because of how the engine is moving underneath the hood when it happens. I just recently changed the dog bone mount, could it be the others? I'm ware that it's wise to change all 3 if you change one but I was on a budget & it was a lot worse before. Someone mentioned it might be my torque converter but I did some research & the two symptoms don't add up. And I'll add once more that this happens occasionally & not every time I switch to a different gear. What it may be?
View 11 RepliesI have a 03 vw jetta gli and whenever the engine is warm when it was recently on, takes a while to start like 3-5 second but normal when it is a cold start..
View 6 RepliesI had the reverse and seat belt beeps changed by the dealer before I took delivery. Now I want to install some mods which would entail disconnecting the 12-volt battery. With pre-2010 Prii the beeps would go back to the default settings. Will this happen on the 2010+? I don't want to make another trip to the dealer.
View 10 RepliesSo I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
View 6 RepliesMy A/C hasn't been seeming too cold lately. It works, it just takes a lot longer than I remember it last summer to get cool. I checked my low-side port using a "EZ chill" gauge I just bought. Doors open, AC max cold, hi, recirculating and it was about 35 PSI - which I think is supposed to be about right.
But I've seen it's dependent on ambient temperature . It was 90 degrees outside. According to the "EZ chill" gauge, it suggests 45-55, which seems way to high to me.
Often times, after the ICE has fully warmed up, there is not enough stopped time at a red light for the ICE to go down to 0 RPM and enter stage 4. Would switching to "R" force the ICE to stop sooner and thus enter stage 4 sooner?
View 1 RepliesNo codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
View 4 RepliesWe've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
View 7 RepliesWhen I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
It seems to me that the RCF is very poor at downshifting. I have owned the car for around 4 months now. If I am cruising along at around 30 to 40 mph and really push the pedal to the floor it honest to God sometimes seems to take a full 2 seconds to respond. It pauses, then downshifts and picks up a little speed, and then it finally goes. It drives me crazy! If I am already in a lower gear and punch it, it goes immediately.
View 14 RepliesI have the jbl stereo and when I start the car it literally takes 2 solid minutes or so to connect sometimes i have to turn the radio off and then back on to get it to connect always has done it. Tried with other phones also i use a iphone 6.
View 7 RepliesSo lately I've been noticing that it takes a really long time for my water temp bars (on the dash) to go down to 0. At first I noticed this during the same time I discovered I had coolant leaking from the valley plate. I took the car in and had that sealed + fresh coolant added, but I'm still noticing that it's takes a really long time for the coolant to cool down, and I'm talking about leaving the car untouched for 3 or 4 hours, and the bar is still half way at operating temps, meanwhile the oil bar is completely at 0.
It hasn't been hot at all in SoCal lately, so I don't think this is attributable to weather. I checked the surrounding of the radiator and there doesn't seem to be a buildup of gunk that decreased air flow. During normal drives on city and highway, the temps are completely fine and don't seem to exceed the normal operating temp.
At this point I'm wondering if there's an issue with other supporting components like the temp. sensor, radiator ran, maybe the water pump?
Other relevant info: MY2011, 67k on the odometer.
Recent leak at valley plate, was resealed and fresh coolant added
As of yesterday evening my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 1500, shuts off while im driving. Takes about two to five minutes to get it going again (has shut off a couple times) Starts up fine idles great, problems start about a mile or two of being driven.
View 1 RepliesFrom stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 Replies