Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Gear Changes Started Clunking Really Rough Suddenly
Jan 14, 2016
I have a 2001 mk4 golf 1.8T, tonight I was driving and all of the sudden the gear changes started clunking really rough ( it's an automatic) and then it would pulse for power only give it to me at random not when I gave it gas, coming to the next stop sign I pushed the accelerator to go and for the first 3 seconds nothing happened until it jumped in revs spinning tires and shooting me forward, so I shut off all the electronics in my car which seemed to work with the not getting power issue but when I finally got to where I was going it now won't turn over, you turn the key you hear the starter try but that's it it just won't turn over, there's no check engine light and I already have a call into my mechanic.
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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So yesterday my car was running as fine as it always has. Then today came around...Car started fine, shifted into first and second fine, but when I hit 3rd it started to sputter in the low rpm's. Around 3000 it picks up a bit. This then continued happening through all of the gears. I noticed that the engine light was flashing for a few seconds and then went away completely. It still putters, struggles, and shakes when accelerating in the low rpms but its not throwing any codes. I know there are a few things it could be i.e. vacuum pump, bad coils or plugs, are maybe something more serious (fuel pump maybe?). I'm at a loss, especially since the car is throwing no codes (so there is nothing to scan for). I was hoping vortex could give me somewhere to start on this, I don't have a VAGcom so getting it scanned means $$$ and I want to get a start on the problem before I go that route. Here's some basic info:
Its at 182,XXX miles. Its never thrown any engine light or cel code in the 2 years 40,000+ miles i've owned it. I run 0w 40 eurpean car formula oil through it every 3-5k. I run seafoam through it every 6 months. I'm NOT sure when the last time the coils have been replaced.
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I have a Jetta Mk IV, yesterday I went to go drive it and just as I pulled out of the driveway it started running rough, so I pulled back in the driveway and the coolant temperature sensor light came on, then the check engine light. and then it died. Then today I tried starting it, and it will only start and run if I have the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it runs really rough. Then it will die. I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor since the light came on. I replaced that, and it still does it. I'm leaning towards a head gasket.
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So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
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I have been puzzled to why my truck isn't running right. We were driving down the highway one day and*then all of the sudden it starts running really rough. I changed MAF sensor, plugs and plug wires, oil change, fuel filter and air filter. Still doing the same thing. What this could be? 2003 ford sport trac..
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
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I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
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I Own A 92 Chevy Silverado, 154 K Miles. Runs Great! My Problem? I Experience Rough Shifting At First Take Off, After She Warms Up The Shifting Is Smooth. After Parking And Starting Again, Rough Shifting With A clunking Sound.
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2006 E-350 Dually Ambulance Chassis with the 6.0... Approx 125000 miles.
Recently, the truck started an issue. its an every once in awhile thing but has been doing it more recently. The OD light will start flashing and the vehicle will start to have clunking in the tranny and start shifting rough. ABS kicks in making it hard to stop. Once you turn the truck off and back on, Its fine until it does it again. Im connecting to a scanner tomorrow to see if i get any codes.
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Coming home from the coast last night, my car started to hiccup and lose power. I had to pull over to the side of the road as no matter how much throttle I applied the car kept losing speed. The car was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Once stopped on the side of the road I revved the engine for about a minute and it picked back up. I drove the remaining forty miles home without further incident. Went out today to drive to the car and my car won't start. It will turn over, but will not start... again feels like it's not getting any fuel.
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I was driving my r yesterday, cruising down the highway in 6th. I let off the gas and I heard a clunk from the tranny. The shifter moves forward with the noise after I let off the gas pedal. It does it most of the time and I didn't know if this was a problem with all Rs or something mechanically bad.
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Setup: WRD Street Advantage Coilover kit. Installed and sit at 24.75" all around. 034 Density mounts and new bearings. 19,xxx mi.
7 weeks ago I installed WRD Street Advantage coils. The install went great, no problems. Drove a week or so and decided to replace the strut mounts with 034's density strut mounts and new bearing to get rid of the creaking sound at low speed. Ordered them and put them on this weekend. After driving it I realized the creaking of the old weaker strut mount was gone. However, I inherited a rough clunking or knocking sound (as if something is loose and moving around), which seems to be coming from my passenger side. This happens at all speeds and not specific to turning the wheel. I unistalled/reinstalled everything in the front 4 times and went through everything with a fine tooth comb, but can't find anything loose. All bolts are torqued to spec.
I even removed the sway bar end links and drove it, still there. So it's not the end links. I also tried using the OEM endlinks which are longer than the ones from WRD to increase the space between the axle and the sway bar, possibly thinking it was hitting and causing the noise. No luck, still there. The only thing I noticed is that with the car on jack stands the strut mount is tight to the body but I still have slight play in the spring and it's perch. Is that normal? I'm assuming under load it's tight again. So the only variable in my situation is the new Density Mounts and bearing, can these cause heightened noises due to the increased heardness of the mounts?
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen jetta, recently my reverse has went... Not sure the reason.
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Clunking happening when accelerating and braking, but is not noticeable if I shift without too much kick between 1st and 2nd. Clunking is heard right under my feet and sounds like its dead center in the car. Some slight metal scraping sound can be heard like a bolt is loose (none found).
Replaced: Tie rod assembly, both axles, doggone mount, struts, strut mounts, strut bearings, sway bar bushings.
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At low speed driving and hitting a small bump I hear a clunking noise in the front on both sides. But when driving at faster speeds and hitting a bump it makes no noise at all. I can't seem to figure out what it is.
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I am trying to find origin of clunking noise, but it is difficult to do as there is no visual signs and no excessive movements in any components.
Little bit of details and video. Noise occurs when moving rapidly steering wheel on stationary car with running engine. Not noticeable when at speed. Wheel is not vibrating and cv joints not clicking. Very tiny free movement in steering wheel about 1mm, but I am not sure if that is related maybe a completely different issue there. Mot tester make an advisory note that steering system slightly rough, but its not that useful to find an issue.
[URL] ....
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I have replaced the ball joints(a year and a half ago) and put in the the ecs tuning control arms with the solid bushing. Recently, I have had a clunking sound, from the left wheel, when turning right. Kind of sounds like the ball joints when they were bad. This noise only occurs when I turn right under about 30mph. It also feels like the wheel might be doing a quick "wiggle." Do you think it is the ball joint again? Could a bad wheel bearing be doing this? I have replaced the right wheel bearing, but have not done the left one yet.
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I've been having a problem with a popping/clicking sound coming from my front end for some time now. 2 days ago I replaced the top strut mounts thinking they were worn and this was the source of my problem, however, the noise persists.I have raised the car and have tried to physically move the wheels, up, down, left, right, but I get no play in any direction.
When the sound happens: If I go over small bumps in the road, or depressions, or speed bumps at slow speed I hear what sounds like a metal on metal sound, but muffled, not a clang, but a pop sound. I can induce it by stepping hard on the brakes, as the car lurches forward I get the sound. After stopping, when the weight moves back again I get the sound again.HOWEVER, I do NOT get the sound from acceleration. I have tried putting on the parking break and trying to take off, but I don't get the sound. The sound is their wether or not I'm in gear.
What could this sound be? My possibilities include:T ie-Rods, Axles, Transmission (loose bolts), broken engine mounts, loose subframe, or perhaps my control arm bushings (but they were replaced with poly bushings about 30k miles ago)
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Last Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
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