Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Gauges Intermittently Dying - Code P1650
May 15, 2016
This is on a 2001 golf, 5 speed, ALH.
Just went for a drive the other day and the ABS light started to flicker on, and then it was accompanied by 3 loud beeps, which I understand is the ABS warning.
Then the gauges all died like I turned the car off, but the engine was still running. No limp mode, no stumbling, nothing.
The needles then bounce back to where they should be, and various lights on the dash flicker, oil pressure, battery, etc. Not any pattern to them, they all just kind of blink on and off randomly. Then it will stop and run fine for 20-30 minutes (longest I have driven it like this)
Sometimes when I put the key in the on position before starting it, the gauges will do the same thing, without the beeping, and it is like I am cylcing the key on and off several times, needles on the fuel and temp gauge bounce between zero and their actual reading (other gauges don't move because I'm at zero rpm and zero mph)
I have replaced fuses 11 and 15, checked battery voltage with the car off, idling and at 2000 rpm, 12.3 volts with the car off, 14.3 with it idling and at 2000 rpm
The cheap code reader at the parts store gave me a P1650 code, which is intermittent communication error on canbus (paraphrasing) which makes sense for the symptoms, but I know on these cars sometimes a totally different system in the car can interfere elsewhere.
I am going to check/clean grounds, what else should I be looking for?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I have a mk4 jetta 2.0l with about 130,000 miles. The issue with my car is that is has a rough idle and dies out completely when I put the car in neutral. I currently have codes 16839- EVAP system leak detected, 16487- Mass air flow sensor, 17978 - Engine start blocked by immobilizer, and 16795 - secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. The secondary air pump was taken off the car before i bought it, so i do not think that code is responsible. Also all of my spark plugs and wires are new. I think the issue is either with my maf sensor or with a vacuum line. I have tried cleaner my maf and also unplugging it, and the car still has problem. Unfortunately i do not know where all of my vacuum line are. I have only checked the two the go into the sensor on towards the firewall. The one has vacuum, but the one coming for the egr valve did have any vaccum even when i tried with my other line on it. Im not sure if this is the issue, and if it would cause my car to die.
View 6 Replies
I keep getting the error code P0420. Cat below threshold.
I have replace both the front and rear O2 sensors and we reset the check engine light. While driving through the cycles to reset the sensors for them to be ready for DEQ, the check engine light came on again.
I am about ready to buy the Cat Converter, but it is really expensive and if there are any other things that I can try before replacing the Cat I would like to try that first. Any other issues associated with that code, or should I just replace the Cat Converter as my next step.
View 23 Replies
Check engine light is driving me crazy, comes and go depending on weather conditions.
When "ON" the code I get is P0441 and P0171. The engine hesitates for a second or two,then stabilizes.
View 6 Replies
My car battery keeps draining when my car is off, lights off, everything is off....... the only thing that ive figured out is that if i pull the fuse to my radio, it wont die, but sometimes if i dont pull the fuse it still wont die......
View 15 Replies
So, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
View 2 Replies
I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
View 2 Replies
So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
View 4 Replies
Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
View 24 Replies
My battery has been dying intermittently. Twice after a week long vacation I have come home to a dead battery. No lights were on in the car and no clear source of a leak. It charged up but would die again after 12 to 24 hours of sitting in the driveway. After the 1st episode mechanics said the alternator and all voltage testing was normal so they just replaced the battery. After the 2nd incident I took my car to a new mechanic and they are saying again the alternator is fine but noticed the battery is shorting (alternator output amperage too high and voltage too low - they put in the shop battery and all returned to normal) and they say I need ANOTHER new battery. I have a hard time believing this but no one can figure out why my car battery keeps dying????
View 8 Replies
My friend has a 2003 Buick LeSabre 3800 with approximately 80000 miles. He complains that the car will die while he is driving. I work at a local parts store and have access to code reading scanner. We've checked the fuel pressure at fuel rail several times and is okay. The only thing that seems odd to me is that he says the tach will quit working. It dies like the switch has been cut off. He can wait, sometimes 10 to 30 minutes, and the car will restart. I had him to come by work when the car acted up so I could scan it. It gave crank sensor out of range, and indeed the tach was not working. I turned the car off to scan, and restarted. The tach was working.
View 2 Replies
My Toyota Corolla, 2006 keeps dying after long periods of sitting. Coincidentally (?) the issue has only occurred on weekends, after my 8-hour afternoon work shift. The first 2 occasions it made a quick clicking sound when I tried to start it (6 and 5 weeks ago, respectively). I replaced the battery; it was old. Then, the same issue happened two weeks ago. I had the battery checked at the site of purchase, where they also checked the alternator. Both reps advised me the parts showed up good on their meters. It died again the next day. So, I had a mechanic check every fuse and relay in the car to look for a draw on the battery using an amp meter. Readings indicated no significant drop in current draining from the battery while any were unplugged. . . I don't use a remote control unlock button (one professional seemed to think this might be relevant), and I have checked to make sure no lights were left on, even in the trunk. (Also note - I have seen no drop in performance when driving vehicle, nor any change in air conditioning or light brightness). I'm lost where to take it from here.
View 11 Replies
Got an 07 Camry V6 XLE - the dashboard is intermittent sometimes one gauge works, sometimes all gauges work, and every combination you can think of......
Car seems to run ok - battery has good voltage Alternator seems to work - discontented and clean the battery - checked all fuses....
View 6 Replies
I've been browsing around and researching the problem where the gauges shut down and the abs among with other lights come on intermittently anywhere from a few seconds to 10-15 minutes because I'm currently having this issue. From what I've found, it is the abs ecu.
View 4 Replies
My oil sensor light goes off under specific conditions, and it's consistent and 100% repeatable.
It's an MK4 Golf GTI 5-sp Manual, and whenever I'm slowing down and the engine is under 2000 revs, the sensor light goes off. This includes stopping, slowing going down or up hills, and really anytime the engine is lower than 2000 revs.
I've replaced the oil sensor, no dice. I don't know what else the issue might be?
View 1 Replies
My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I found others having a similar issue on Google but no fix or confirmation of the cause.
View 8 Replies
So my little brother bought a 2005 Vw gli, and it's been pretty good on him so far however, one day he was coming back from work and the car suddenly shut off on him and we haven't been able to get it to start.
(Haven't really been able to actually diagnose it fully since this is his second car)
Did the typical unplugging of the air mass sensor to see if it was that. Checked the relays to see if they clicked Checked all the fuses Checked the ignition switch Checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors Checked some of the grounds( can't locate all of them)When I turn the key, the rpm needle moves a tiny bit
View 18 Replies
2000 Dakota, 4.7 V8 ... The 'CHECK GAUGES' light comes on intermittently. As soon as it comes on, the voltmeter gauge drops to zero (it is a brand new battery); the temperature gauge does flip flops; the truck dies right now. Walk home and come back later, and it starts up again. When you get home, you sure don't feel secure in taking it on the road again. The shop checked it and of course there was nothing wrong when they had it Where do I start the troubleshoot? Is it computer or?
View 1 Replies
last weekend I was closing my sunroof and it went all the way shut, then started going back, just like your garage door does if you leave some stuff blocking the door. I stuck my hand in there and whisked around to see if there was anything blocking it but found nothing just dust. I didn't look closer because I was going down the highway 75mph at the time. Them the issue went away by itself and I left it shut.
View 6 Replies
I had my A/C and dryer replaced because the last one basically wore itself out after 135K miles on my '01 TDI.
After I got the car back, whenever the air condition is turned out, I sometimes get a very loud intermittent vibration.
I made a video: [URL] ....
What could be the cause of this?
View 15 Replies
My car sat for 2 days this week and was completely dead when I got back. I had the alternator and battery tested and they were both fine. I put everything back and ran a vag-com and it still shows running voltage at 9.7 volts. ABS and traction control lights are on intermittently. It seems to be having trouble starting which leads me to believe it's a bad starter but I don't know how that would drain my battery. The car also has a sunroof drain leak which got water on the monsoon amp. I've tried with and without the amp connected. No difference.
View 24 Replies