Golf IV / Jetta IV :: GLI 1.8t - Loss Of Power / Misfire Under Acceleration
Aug 27, 2014
I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
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When i got my 2000 jetta vr6 it has a CEL for misfires. Searched this board and google already. Im thinking injectors (havent checked yet) I noticed something weird the other day. At a light i get the CEL flashing. Then after a bit it will come on and stay on. I plugged in my generic reader and deleted the codes. When the CEL is on I get loss of power and hesitation. When its deleted the car runs better. I get my power back. I looked in the coolant tank and see no bubbles. Could this be the ECM? Im still going to get injectors but want to buy the gasket and anything else I am going to need to put it back together. I already cleaned the MAF, replaced some vac lines, coil pack, wires and checked plugs (gapped at .28) ...
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I have a 2002 VW jetta 1.8t recently I've noticed that in 5th gear around 35-45 mph its losing acceleration. its a tiptronic so i can just downshift speed up a bit an o to 5th, however I don't want that to be the permanent fix, what this is or why its doing it?
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Situation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
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2002 AVH Jetta Wagon. When I got the car back in 2012 it had 121K and I changed the wires (ngk blue 57021) and plugs (ngk platinum) and she drove like a dream. A couple of months later I started having issues with wet weather and moisture causing misfires so I did the JB WELD fix and though I'd still get the occasional misfire in hard rains it lasted me pretty much until very recently, when I decided I needed to put in a new coil because the problem was getting worse (hardly starting up after a rain and bucking wildly till things dried out). Yesterday, I replaced the BERU with a new HUCO and the car started up fine and drove fine all day. I think there was a lot of moisture in the air last night and possibly some rain but this morning, SAME PROBLEM with a new coil. Misfiring like crazy, no acceleration.
I thought the NGK wires and plugs I got were rated to last beyond 20,000 miles. At this point should I assume the wires are to blame? Split somewhere or something? It's definitely related to water and the electrical system.
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Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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Today i come here for a AC/Compressor trouble: The AC on my Jetta 2000 2.0 works very well, however it seems that the engine loses a lot of power when the AC is on (the acceleration becomes very slow), and at the moment of turn on the compressor, the engine revolutions down to 400 rpm for a couple of seconds (after back to normality, 800rpm on idle).
I know that the power loss on engine is "normal" with the AC, but in mi case, seems excessive, and the fuel consumption, when the AC is on is vey high too. I think that maybe the compressor is stuck, but I'm not sure about that.
As additional information, i scanned the engine codes an throws P0422 (related to oxygen sensor)
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I bought a 2000 jetta gls vr6 5-speed. Only had the car about 4 weeks, already I am in, ball joints, struts, brakes, core leaks and my half shaft fell off at the transmission. Now, driveabilty issue.
Severe loss of power, sputtering bad. when i shift, the car revs a bit. installed new O2 sensor due to a rich code and a out of range code. Now the EPC light is on with an implausible brake switch signal. Replaced switch still comes back on. Still running like poop. Changed the plugs also about 1k back. I just ordered a MAF.
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My car has been throwing a code P2178
P2187 System Too Lean at Idle (Bank 1) DTC.
Checked the intake, checked maf, checked injectors.
Today after leaving show n go. Stopped at a gas station (never turned off the car) leaving the gas station the car was loosing power, I thought I was in 3rd instead of first. No, I was in 1st. Driving and car was sputtering and wasn't getting any power. After a few blocks it sounded like its gonna shut off. Pulled over to the side. Car died, doesn't wanna start again. Got spark, got fuel to the injectors, discoed the sensor to maf, still cranks but doesn't start. Got it towed to NY from NJ. Still no start. Few people said crankshaft sensor, starter, clogged cat or fuel filter. Car isn't throwing any codes now (probably cuz the motor didn't start) any clues on what it can be?
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Started my car (02 with a 2.0) this morning and as I pulled away the EPC light came on and the car lost power, almost stalling. I kept on going, and then the check engine light came on.
Got to a stop sign and it died on me. Battery light came on at this time as well. Started back up no problem but idled rough and kept dying. Just kept restarting and moving bit by bit until I could get home. EPC and check engine stayed on through all of this.
I also noticed that it would buck like crazy around 3000 rpm and not increase past that point. What could be going on here? I'm going to pull codes when I get home.
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I have a 2005 jetta 2.0 Once it gets under half a tank I lose power, it acts like it's running out of gas. It only does it in warmer weather (this started in march when we took it to Florida, once it got back in the cold weather it didn't do it again until 2 days ago when it was in the 70's). I took it to he mechanic I've used since I got the car (he works exclusively on vw and audis). It didn't do it to him in the two weeks he had it, he couldn't find anything wrong that would cause the issue.
He did do a complete tune up, replaced both of my fans and coolant. I ended up replacing the coolant temp sensor myself since that decided to go bad after I got it back. It lost power after getting the car back again warm weather and just under half a tank of gas. Prior to the Florida trip the water pump, timing belt and starter were replaced. I had my fuel pump replaced in 2014. It is an automatic with 157k miles on it.
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The past couple days when driving to school in the morning i've been noticing that my car starts to rattle and struggles to accelerate once I pull out of my driveway. Once i get to the next stop sign to take off the car runs fine like nothing ever happened. My check engine light doesn't come on though. I usually let the car sit for about 30 seconds to a minute before i start to move the car. Mods I have are Unitronic stage 2, Forge 007p DV with yellow spring, and 3" downpipe.
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just picked up this 99 Jetta with about 150,000 miles and while driving all of a sudden i had extreme power loss, shaking and shuddering, and the engine light came on. My code reader found multiple random misfires cylinder 1 and 4 codes P0300, P0301, and P0304.
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Last weekend, I was riding my Golf 2.0L when it started losing power, then a thick blueish white smoke started coming out from the engine all the way through the exhaust. Stopped the car on the side of the road and had it towed back home. I've looked for loss of any oil or coolant but the levels are ok. No mixed fluids from sight. I've had a check engine light for oxygen sensor for a year or so, but I've been told that would not be the problem. I started the car a few hours after it was towed home, it was now cool so the smoke wasn't as thick. The smoke doesn't smell like coolant fluid. I took out a spark plug and there was a bit of oil onto it too. My engine runs normally. People have been telling me to look for head gasket, valve cover gasket, engine head, etc. A week later, I still can't find what it could be.
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I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
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Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
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So a while ago I had no power. The car seemed to idle fine but when I would accelerate, there was no power. Being I just took this into the dealer for the same issue, could I have a bad diverter from the dealer or a possible bigger issue.
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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I have a mk4 TDI. Running 18" 225/40 and coil overs. My car began to have a loose steering wheel and was unstable at high speed so i did alignment and it was bad. when they fixed it next day it broke again. My front wheels end up being too open. If front left is straight than the front right is too much open, like i am turning right. i did alignment again in the shop, they made them straight and it broke again next day. What can cause that my allignment breaks every day? Shop doesn't know.
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I've been experiencing power loss at random times while driving, idling, With almost always flickering headlights on my mkiv 1.8t gti. Also on what always seems like the exact same spot on the freeway I'm losing all power to the wheels and it feels as if my plugs aren't firing for about 10 seconds Which causes me to bog down. At which point I down shift and play the throttle until my motor then begins running normally again.
I've semi recently replaced my battery and terminals, due to corroded terminals and worn out battery. Is is possible a ecu reset could solve this problem?
Also when the power surges during driving my traction control and hand-brake lights on the tachometer will flash and the car will beep three or four times (same as when the hand-brake on beep).
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