Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Fuel Pump Is Supposed To Go Off When Open Driver Side Door
Jan 4, 2015
At some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
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I have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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When I open the driver's door, the car does not register that the door is open: the dome light and other interior lights don't come on, the red alert light inside the door itself doesn't come on, and sometimes my alarm will go off when I start the car because it does not know that the door has been activated properly. When the passenger door is open, all the lights function properly. I'm thinking this is a fuse? Hopefully a simple fix?
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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I Have a 2000 vw jetta 2.0 that will not start with drivers side door open, no problems with other doors. I checked and cleaned the ground wires.
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My driver door got stuck, couldn't open from the outside but could open from inside. I went and read a few forums and they told me to adjust the plastic lug that has a wire connected to it that is attached to the module. It might be tight so I had to loosen it a bit, In the process it fell inside the door and not only did it not fix the problem but I cant seem to find any other way to get inside to find it.
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After sorting out a bunch of other things and basically rebuilding my engine, I'm down to 1 pesky problem. My engine won't run if the driver door is open...
With the door closed and engine on, its great. AFRs are high 13s to mid 14s, 19-ish vac, smooth and steady idle. But when I open the driver door the engine cuts off. I can pull the lever and hold the door close, its fine. When I release the door and it gets past a certain point, the engine stops.
I get a bunch of short to ground codes BUT only after scanning after the engine cuts off via the door. If I clear them and scan it before said occurrence, I only get an engine speed sensor code.
I can roll the windows up and down, door locks, mirrors, passenger door, sun roof, open the hatch, hood and gas door with killing the engine. Its ONLY when I open the driver door...
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I heard this noise on my mkIV GTI as well. When I unlock and open the car in the AM I hear a strange "whirring" sound. It sounds like a cell phone vibrating on a hard surface. I don't think anything is broken since it has done this on two different cars. I just want to know what it is. The sound happens as soon as I open the driver-side door.
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My trunk doesn't seem to open electrically any more - that is, the button on the driver's side nor the button on the key fob will open the trunk. All I hear when I attempt either of these methods is a click near the fuse box. I do not hear the actuator at all. It worked intermittently for a few months, but now it seems to be completely dead. My google searches led me down two paths - either the actuator itself is broken or the wiring going from the latch to the actuator is messed up.
I removed the actuator from the trunk and tested it using a different power supply. It seems to work fine when I apply 12v through the leads. I also connected my multimeter to the connector that plugs into the actuator (the connector is hooked up to the wires coming from the front of the car). When I push the trunk button on my key, it spikes to 11v, then drops back to 0. To me, this indicates that there is no flaw in the wiring.
I even re-soldered the wires where it tends to kink on the drivers side in the trunk (It looks like they have been previously DIYed so I thought something may have come loose there), but that doesn't seem to have worked. As far as I can tell, the wires seem to be working fine by testing through the multimeter, and the actuator seems to be fine by testing from an alternate supply.
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My key when I press the button will lock all of the doors except the drivers door, I can still lock the drivers door, but only if i put my key in the lock and do it manually. I know on my brothers 02 golf gls it would lock all of the doors with the button on the key.
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So last night, I went to close my car door and it just "Bounced" when I went to shut it. It did this a few times and then I got it closed. So I left it until this morning and now it won't close at all and just bounces. I believe the latch is broken. Any quick fixes to this?
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Like the title says, the door lock cylinder does not work on my driver's side door. I removed it and the doors lock unlock with a screw driver so it's only the lock cylinder that is bad. Is there a way to "rebuild" it or fix it without having to get a new one? All 3 of my keys don't work for the trunk or drivers door.
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
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When I open the driver door at night, the brake pump would dim the interior lights a little while running. Is this normal for a 6 month-old aux battery? All my trips are 30 mins or longer so it has plenty of opportunity to recharge.
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My driverside door will not open from either side. I opened it to get out, reached over to grab my phone, the door shut on me and now it will not open. it just barely closed, so i dont know why I cant budge it. its an old s10.
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I can unlock my car and open all the doors except the drivers door but when I am inside I can open it. Seeing as its extremely annoying having to open my back door and reach inside to open my front...
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Went to get into the car this morning & the my door wouldn't open! The handle will not pull towards me at all. Door can be opened from the inside though. I would like to avoid having to bring it to the dealer today.
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From inside it works fine. I pulled the interior panel and it looks as if the parts aren't close enough together. There is a white plastic barrel(?) attached to the lever for the exterior handle. When the exterior handle is pulled the white barrel moves down. It looks as if it should strike the lever to activate the spring and release the door. Barely grazes it. Can't seem to get this piece to move closer.
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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