I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
View 1 RepliesThe fuel gauge sender quit the other day so Im replacing the pump assembly. I believe in replacing fuel and ignition related parts with factory equipment. So I was going to get a Ford Motorcraft pump, but my wife checked for one through her work(local parts store). The counter guy found one that said original equipment, called them and was told "It is the same pump that gets installed on the assembly line". Well it came in today and its a Delphi. I was expecting a Ford pump. I associate Delphi with GM and I know GM pumps go out all the time. I know Ford pumps go out too, but I know several people with GMs that have replaced pumps multiple times within 100000 miles. Is Delphi worth taking a chance on?
View 6 RepliesDriving on my original tank from dealer today from Upstate NY to NYC. On the way my C had 4 bars to begin then went to 3, then 2 after about 90 miles of traveling at avg of about 55mph. I watched the cruising distance go down to 1 but I still had 2 bars on my fuel gauge (and my crusing distance was conservative compared to my mpg reading the whole trip, which was hovering around 58mpg).
The gauge went from 2 bars to one flashing bar in about 1 minute. I pulled into a gas station about 2 miles ahead and put in about 5 gallons... this put the fuel gauge up to 3/4s or about 3 bars above the halfway mark. What gives? I know there are fuel gauge issues but I thought with two bars I would have had plenty of time before I needed to fill up on these roads with these mpgs.
I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
View 14 RepliesFuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
View 1 RepliesI have finally gotten my 93 Explorer back on the road. Now I have a few things that I am trying to get fixed.
The first things that I need to get repaired is my Fuel Sending Unit replaced. How hard is this and what kind of pitfalls am I looking at.
The problem that I am having is that my fuel gauge is never right. The other day I ran out of gas, but the gauge said full. Go firgure.
Anyway I have been told that the problem is my sending unit in the fuel tank. So is there any advise on this repair.
MY 2000 300M has a problem with the fuel gauge. When over 1/2 a tank and just under the full mark the gauge will randomly drop down to empty and turn on the low fuel light then go back to the correct reading and will do this over and over again. my mechanic has looked at the car believes it's the sending unit. Just wanted a second opinion before I spent the money for a fuel pump module for the car.
View 7 RepliesRecently I bought a aem fuel pump only to find out it was for a vr6... go figure. so i said no big deal took it off and put my old one back on. Everything worked fine before now but now that i have put the old fuel pump back in i am not getting any fuel at all.
View 6 RepliesI just worked on my car for a week and it was jacked up with the rear end squatted down and now when i corner the fuel gauge goes down.
2004 1.8t jetta ....
So lately have had few symptoms of fuel pump going out and all that but tonight randomly wouldn't start and I mean no power, no lights, no turn over, no anything like my key fob won't even set my alarm or unlock car is this another symptom.
View 12 RepliesSo after a long trip from my vacation I ended up running over a dead deer on my 2004 VW Jetta GLI 1.8T AWP. As soon as I hit the car turned off. I was looking around to see what the damage was and everything looked intact but my car still wouldn't turn on. I checked some things and came to the conclusion that there was no fuel running to the engine (whenever the key would be on the "ON" position the fuel pump didn't make the usual "whirring" sound meaning it was on).
So I checked the fuel pump fuse, that was good but when I checked if there was current in the fuse, there wasn't. Then I disconnected the fuel pump to see if there was current going through the connector and there wasn't. This led me to check the fuel pump relay. Relay looked good and when I checked to see if there was current going through to the relay, there wasn't. So my issue is that the car is not turning on because there is no current going through to the fuel pump and no current to the relay and fuse.
I am having an issue with my speedo and the fuel gauge on my 2002.5 24v vr6. First it started with a speedo that would bounce and dance around. it went away then came back and so on for awhile. Then i notice the fuel gauge would go up or down and would flash that i need to fill as I would go around turns. Also the odometer doesnt work either. I know that the vss could be the cause.
View 1 RepliesLong story short, my car died on me shortly after pulling out of the driveway a few weeks ago. Initially I thought it was my fuel pump because it wasn't priming when I had the key turned to the "ON" position. Here's what I know for sure:
The fuel pump works. It was tested and is not the issue. The relay is good.
The fuse from number 28 is good. There isn't any power at the fuse. The shop has been tracing wires and looking at diagrams and cannot find any breaks in any wires.
The ECU has been swapped for another one. When I turn the key to the "ON" position, the check engine light and EPC light come on, then turn off after about 3 seconds. They do not stay on.
What else could it be? Car in question is an 01 Jetta 1.8T AWD motor code.
1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
Its a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Volkswagen GTI with 80k miles. Just yesterday I went to school and the car drove fine. But when I came back and tried to start my car, it stalled out after a few seconds. Now I thought this was a bad fuel pump until I checked it and found that the fuel pump wasn't receiving any power. I checked the fuse and it was intact. So then I went to check the relay and found that if I unplug the relay and plug it back in, the fuel pump momentarily receives power for about 2 seconds then nothing. Any clue what the interference could be?
View 1 RepliesOk so I disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pumps when I turn the key to on and when I crank it it's not pumping gas ..
Changed the relay
Changed the crank pos sensor
I'm at a loss what would cause the fuel pump not pump when cranking?
04 jetta 1.8t
apr tune 1.6v
neuspeed 4bar fuel pressure regulator
3" turbo back
APR TIP
This is the second time this happened to me. First time was about two weeks ago where i was just driving and the car stalled. Tried to start but it sounded like it just wasn't getting fuel. Brand new battery, terminals are clean) Got it started and it was revving high like a cold start, normal but why after driving for 30 mins? EPC light came on also which was strange along with the CEL, a buddy checked the code and it was for the secondary air injection pump. (I have not had that go off in a while. Code po4011 secondary air injection. Had this issue a while ago with that code when i did a short ram intake. Tuner cleared it so i can pass emissions. ) Now today it died about 2 miles from my house. Same thing but no CEL. EPC light came on and car was revving high, luckily 3 cars behind my buddy was there and he give me a push into the gas station. Once again it wanted to start but i felt like no fuel. waited a few minutes and it started right up again until it almost died in my drive way. Cluster comes on when it dies. ignition is good.
My big question is the stalling part and the EPC light coming on, then the car revving like it is a cold start but not stopping? and i need this car to be working.
R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connecter and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning. I've searched and searched without being able to narrow down a solution.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine came to me and decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connector and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning.
View 1 Replies