Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Front Strut Mount All Sorts Of Crooked?
Aug 4, 2016
Was tinkering on my car this morning, and at first noticed one side had a bigger gap than the other. Ok, I really need to change strut mount bushings, no big deal. Then I actually looked closer, and they both have some lean to them, but the drivers side is much more than the other one. Is this normal? I've never noticed any play in control arm bushings or anything. So what could be causing this? I would assume they are meant to sit flat but maybe not?
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I just installed my brand new coil overs. I went to drop the car from the jack and as it lowered I noticed my strut mount fully popped out of the strut mount housing. I can't even close my hood. Did I do something wrong?
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I had my ST coilovers installed a while back. I love the ride, but a really annoying squeaking/groaning sound developed several weeks ago from the front strut mount area. The noise is heard at low speeds as I roll down the road (most likely high speeds, too) and sounds like its coming from both sides of the upper strut mount area. If you lift up/push down on the car, you can also hear the sound.
I purchased a set of 034 Density upper strut mounts from AMI Motorsports in hopes of eliminating the sound, but the sound got worse!! I still do not have a resolution. At this point, I'm thinking about putting the stock strut mounts back in, as the sound wasn't near as bad with the OE mounts in place.
I've lubricated the sway bar bushings and installed shorter end links (thinking the sound may be sway bar related), but the noise is still there. I even disconnected the end links all together - sound is still there. Could this be faulty coilovers? I tried to file a warranty claim through ST - they don't think their strut is faulty, and even if they did, I'm having a hard time with warranty coverage (long story). If it's the struts, then why did the sound get worse when the new 034 Density upper strut mounts were installed? Could it be faulty mounts?
At this point, I think it's either the mount or the strut, as I did not experience any issues prior to the coilovers.
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So I changed the front struts, springs, mounts, bearings, etc with factory Toyota parts. The car is a 2007 Camry LE 4 cyl with over 200k miles. While the car does not pull to one side, the steering wheel is now at roughly the 2 o'clock position for the car to be driving straight. Nothing else was changed, replaced, or modified. I do notice the car sits much higher now than it did before (old struts leaked oil and needed to be changed).
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I just got a H&R Sport Cup Kit installed along with new strut mounts and bearings on my 2001 GTi. My front right side strut is making a popping sound whenever I accelerate or brake slightly hard and sometimes when hitting a bump in the road. What's causing the sound? Could it be I have a bad strut? Also the left side is fine and doesn't make noise at all..
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Setup: WRD Street Advantage Coilover kit. Installed and sit at 24.75" all around. 034 Density mounts and new bearings. 19,xxx mi.
7 weeks ago I installed WRD Street Advantage coils. The install went great, no problems. Drove a week or so and decided to replace the strut mounts with 034's density strut mounts and new bearing to get rid of the creaking sound at low speed. Ordered them and put them on this weekend. After driving it I realized the creaking of the old weaker strut mount was gone. However, I inherited a rough clunking or knocking sound (as if something is loose and moving around), which seems to be coming from my passenger side. This happens at all speeds and not specific to turning the wheel. I unistalled/reinstalled everything in the front 4 times and went through everything with a fine tooth comb, but can't find anything loose. All bolts are torqued to spec.
I even removed the sway bar end links and drove it, still there. So it's not the end links. I also tried using the OEM endlinks which are longer than the ones from WRD to increase the space between the axle and the sway bar, possibly thinking it was hitting and causing the noise. No luck, still there. The only thing I noticed is that with the car on jack stands the strut mount is tight to the body but I still have slight play in the spring and it's perch. Is that normal? I'm assuming under load it's tight again. So the only variable in my situation is the new Density Mounts and bearing, can these cause heightened noises due to the increased heardness of the mounts?
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I recently picked up a 2001 MK4 jetta and Have some issues with door locks. Upon searching I'm thinking I may have a faulty door lock module.
Symptoms are that the doors will randomly lock for no reason when I unlock the door and sit inside for a min or two. PO broke the drivers armrest control and glued them in place and I think some glue seeped into the lock button as it is very stiff and no longer works. Going to replace the door card and controls but wondering if the problem may be due to typical burnt out soldering points?
For my window issue, passenger window appears to possibly be crooked in the window clips as it stops 3/4 of the way up and will reverse back down as if stuck. I have to keep pressing it to get it to go up. Does this sound like typical broken clips and glass is about to fall? Would I just undo clips and reattach?
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My upper strut mounts have been failing after a year (about 12,000 miles, typical highway and local street driving, no off-road!). This seems to have started when I replaced shocks with Bilstein slightly stiffer variety. I also put a stabilizer bar on it at that time. Do you think the shocks are the fault? What else might I look for?
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I have purchased an UltraRacing strut bar for my hyundai accent 2005... The problem however is that my intake manifold sits higher than the throttle body and as a result of this i am unable to mount the bar... The bar has been made for an 03 accent but all points are identical, the only difference that i was able to see is that in the previous accent the throttle body was NOT plastic and sat FLUSH with the throttle body, whereas mine IS plastic and does NOT sit flush with the throttle body.
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I have a rear rattle that I cant figure out had the wheel off and levered and pounded on links bushings etc. How can I access the top strut mounts to check them? Nothing found on youtube. Original struts on rear show no leaks or broken spring. Bouncing car does nothing neither does grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9 position.
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I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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I have to replace the torque strut mount in my 2008 Avalon XLS V6. I can't find the torque specs for the two bolts in my Haynes manual or at any online sites. Also, should I use either threadlocker or anti-seize on them?
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I hear a a series of "clunks" rather than "rattles" (not high pitched) when driving slow over bumpy roads. The noise is coming from the rear only. I think it is more evident in cold temperatures, but I'm not sure. I'll find out if it ever gets above freezing again in MN. Strut mounts? If so, DIY project?
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Is this possible? I recently installed raceland ultimos and I get this weird muffled noise from the top of the rear suspension. Took it all apart, cut the bump stops shorter, and lubed the strut mounts. Sound went away for about 10 mins of driving, went for another drive and the sound was back. The next day the weather was warmer and the noise was gone. Should I just get new strut mounts?
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So I just picked up this mk4 it had D2 coilovers I believe and I'm putting racelands but I'm having trouble actually fitting the strut to the beam it doesn't want to go in because it's too small? So how would I open it up ?
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Are the bolt and nut holding the strut to the wheel bearing housing the only things that need to be replaced when removing the strut? Anything else I should change while I'm in there? So far I'm just doing 034 strut mounts and bearings.
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I have a set of ST coilovers, installed on my tiguan s4motion they ride great but have noticed clunk noise coming from tight strut and I'm pretty sure it's the pillow mount plate, is there anywhere to get replacements or a better plate? ST website doesn't have them separately...
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I have a 1999 cadillac Deville that my mechanic says needs a new front strut mount. My symptoms are mostly in cold weather a very slight groan when parking the vehicle or turning into my driveway. It seems like it happens when the steering wheel is on its return back to center and it can be felt slightly in the wheel and heard as the sound a zip tie makes when pulled together with a slight groan. The car has been recently aligned and rides pretty good but sometimes can be a little noisy over bumps.
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What hardware I need to install the passenger side motor mount spacer from Euro Image Tuning. Been sitting on it for a while and cant find the hardware that it came with. Would like to install it, but dont remember what it came with..
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
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