Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Front Tire Clicking Only Above 20mph - CV Joint?
Apr 25, 2016
Had to get a state inspection this month, and originally failed due to front right outer tie rod and both control arm bushings -- i bit the bullet and had the shop do this work for me, since I am going on vacation this week and i plan on using my car.
Anyhow, got the car back, and now i can hear a light clicking or tapping noise, but i can only really hear it when i put the window down, or if im driving by one of those concrete median dividers. Its as if someone is taking the metal tip of a screwdriver amd tapping it against a hollow metal bowl -- it makes a clicking noise, not a clunking or whirring noise...
I can only hear it when i hit 20mph; any less and i cant hear the clicks. At 20mph, its a slow, faint click that seems to be closely related to the wheel spinning. At 40mph, i can hear it is much faster, but just barely louder. I hear it best at abouf 25-30 mph, before road noises begin to over power the clicks.
Turning does not seem to affect the clicking, nor does braking. Its just constant -- if the wheel is spinning over 20mph, its clicking. Whether i coast or accelerate does not matter. I checked for rocks/nails in my treads, and with the exception of quite a few tiny rocks (which i took out), there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable. I checked my CV boots, and i cant find any signs of tearing or leaking grease...
If it is my CV Joint, wouldnt the mechanic that did my inspection, who caught my tie rod and control a bushings, and who did my alignment -- wouldnt he have also noticed something odd about my CV Joint, if something is indeed wrong?
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My car now occasionally makes a click (actually closer to a clunk because you can even feel it a little through the fire wall and steering wheel) when turning the wheel to the right. It doesn't matter if the car is moving or not. It doesn't do it all the time, only occasionally.
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My car is a MK4 1.8t 2001 model.
Recently I've been losing a decent amount of coolant, and I noticed a puddle of water forming up right in front of my front right tire. I've inspected the engine bay, and the water seems to be coming from beneath the coolant reservoir itself, and forming a puddle under the windshield washer bottle. Which ends up dripping under the bumper in front of the right tire.
I didn't have any time to do more inspection, not even to take pics. The car is left at home as i don't want to drive it while it's leaking. Where to inspect or which parts to take off in order to spot the leak... No overheating has occurred, yet.
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My front right wheel began clicking a few weeks ago. It clicks under these circumstances...
- Usually when the car first starts rolling from a long stop. Usually stops after driving for a bit but does come back sometimes
- from 5-50mph (stops at high speeds)
- cornering does not seem to change the clicking. If anything it stops it rather than makes it worse
- clicking is in rhythm with wheel speed
- noise stops when brakes are applied
I'm thinking it's either a cv joint or I just replaced my brakes maybe it's the brake clip came out and is hitting the inside of the rotor?
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I've been having a problem with a popping/clicking sound coming from my front end for some time now. 2 days ago I replaced the top strut mounts thinking they were worn and this was the source of my problem, however, the noise persists.I have raised the car and have tried to physically move the wheels, up, down, left, right, but I get no play in any direction.
When the sound happens: If I go over small bumps in the road, or depressions, or speed bumps at slow speed I hear what sounds like a metal on metal sound, but muffled, not a clang, but a pop sound. I can induce it by stepping hard on the brakes, as the car lurches forward I get the sound. After stopping, when the weight moves back again I get the sound again.HOWEVER, I do NOT get the sound from acceleration. I have tried putting on the parking break and trying to take off, but I don't get the sound. The sound is their wether or not I'm in gear.
What could this sound be? My possibilities include:T ie-Rods, Axles, Transmission (loose bolts), broken engine mounts, loose subframe, or perhaps my control arm bushings (but they were replaced with poly bushings about 30k miles ago)
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I have a 2004.5 Jetta GLI 1.8T. 96K miles.
The sound just started a couple of weeks ago and is becoming more prominent. On cold starts (like in the morning or after sitting for a while), the front right of the car makes a repeated clicking/ clunking sound while in neutral. However, the second I apply any gas, the sound goes away. Only when my engine is idling at around 700-800 rpms does it make the sound. After driving the car around for about 10 minutes or so ("warming up"), the sound eventually goes away and comes back on the next cold start.
Yesterday, my ABS light came on and never went away. I have no idea if there's any relation. May be a separate issue. I've tried searching for a diagnosis with no luck. Thoughts on what I might be hearing?
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I installed 2 new axles and replaced the upper motor mounts in my car. Now when I turn to the right the left front tire is running against the coilover and making my car vibrate. I put a 5mm spacer to give it some clearance but it didn't make much of a difference. What could be wrong?
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Lowered my car yesterday. 23" FTG. I'm now hearing a clicking noise from my drivers side front wheel.. I mostly hear it when my foot is off the gas and I'm just coasting (usually at slower speed). Also, it gets louder (worse) and is accompanied by what sounds like a rubbing when I take turns.. Is it axle bind? Or should I be concerned?
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Front driver side area making a flat tire noise. Replaced the tires and axle and wheel bearings. Kinda lost on what could btw making the noise. Alignment done 15k miles ago when lowering springs and new shocks were put on.
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Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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I need to replace a cv joint on my mk4 golf and was wondering if I will need to get a front end wheel alignment done once I have completed the job...
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2003 Golf GTI Turbo... New to VW, I'm a jeep guy and bought a GTI for my wife to try rally cross in. It had some problems that I knew about when I bought it, had to replace CV shafts, control arms, fix broken trans mount, etc. I'm on to the last piece of the puzzle now.
The expansion joint on the downpipe from the turbo is basically exploded. Not a big deal, just buy a new downpipe and biky everything together right? Not so much. Bought one the other day, it showed up and has 3 bolts on turbo side, mine has 4.
When I look at the other stock turbo downpipes, it looks like they have 3 bolts as well. What's going on? Did the previous owner put a different turbo on this? I just need the damn downpipe, but can't figure out which one to order.
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I have a 06 PT cruiser with about 70k miles.About a month ago a small click started near the left front tire. I thought it was a pebble and checked the tire to find none. It increases volume and frequency with speed. There's no vibration or grinding. Brakes are good, and I just had the bearings replaced about 6 months ago.
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I have a clicking sound on the driver side front tire. It only makes the noise when I am in motion and have the wheel turned. It does it reverse and forward. The CV axle is not turning, and it does it with 4x4 engaged and the cv axle turning. I had the front end apart not to long ago replacing the IWE Integrated wheel hub, and the bearing isn't to terrible old, and its a timken.
It didn't wobble when the wheel was up in the air, and seemed solid. All the other front end pieces have also been replaced. I also hear a rubbing noise when I am driving on that side. For awhile before I replaced my IWE Hub I thought it was the cv axle just turning ( I had the lined unplugged so it was engaged to prevent damage), well after fixing the IWE Hub it still makes the sound and the cv axle is not turning as it was before.
Wondering if the bearing is maybe on its way out? One thing I did notice is tie rod end I just replaced along with all my new front end parts (upper control arms, and lower ball joints) the boot is severed completely all the way around. However the tie rod appeared to be in good shape, just the boot has been cut or split some how. Which I plan to fix, but I don't see how that would cause a clicking sound. I have inspected to make sure no lines or vac hoses are rubbing, and they are not.
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I have had a Clicking noise on my 2000 x 4x4 since 6 months coming from the front right side tire noticeable over rough roads or over bumps and I went on a journey starting with ford dealer to almost all well recognized service centers and every body says your front suspension is ok and no one seems to know where it is coming from. I thought it was my hub bearing since it fails almost every year but when I was changing the bearing, I noticed a big Excessive play in axle.
See video : My AXLE Shaft - YouTube
Also I noticed oil mixed with grease the grease is prawny with a reddish sort of color or that is some thing else.
See photos ....
Any way after replacing the hub Bearing with a used one and butting every thing together I went on a test drive. Noticed that the vehicle drive line is not right the car seems to wonder and the noise still there so i didn't get far i came right back and park my x then a funny burned oil smell was present.
Is it some thing i did wrong or is it bad situation gone worst ?
Items Checked Or Replaced In The Last 4 Months ( trying to fix)
Tie Rods. Ok
ball joints. Ok
suspension front and rear. Ok
Front stabilizer bar. Ok
control arm bushings. Ok
stabilizer bar bushings Ok
steering linkage. Ok
brake pads. A new front set installed
Rotors . Both front changed with oem parts
body mounts + sub-frame mounts. Some replaced
shock absorbers . New 4 set installed
- Rear Monroe 911176 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
- Front Monroe 911175 Reflex Light Truck Shock Absorber
tires. Replaced with a new set off four
Hub Bearing. Second hand (that's when I saw it)
Spare Parts waiting list (Ordered):-
O ring ord part # 4C3Z-1K106-AA
(knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB).
and some other dust seals which i can't recall.
I am looking for how to fix axle play and get red of the noise. (this is a video from you tube for clearance)....
F250 wheel bearing, is this bad or not? - YouTube
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Every time we turned right in our 2013 elantra, I kept hearing a clicking noise, almost like a cv joint going out. So we took it in to the dealership to look at that as well as our peeling steering wheel. They informed me I have a bent rear cross member (I coulda swore that noise was coming from the front). I'm not sure if a cross member is the right word, because its the structural piece that connects the two rear wheels together, so ill call it an axle. The drivers side rear wheel was bent in both directions; the top was bent out and the front of the wheel was bent in I think. They showed this to me, and it was definitely bent all out of wack. The thing is, neither me nor my wife can recall a time when we hit a significant enough of a pothole/curb in order to do this kind of damage! Either way, it has to be fixed.
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I noticed a clicking noise while parking my car this weekend and looked to see that indeed my CV boots were torn and grease is everywhere. I know the easiest way to go is to replace the axle....
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I just purchased a 2001 Accent GL, while driving at highway speed it sounds like knobby tire noise on the road, when i turn to the right the noise goes away, does this indicate left CV bad ? is there any bearings up front or is it all CV axle ?
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My wife's 2007 Mazda3 is making a very slight clicking sound every while coming out of left turns. It's somewhat intermittent, only happening every few turns. I did a quick visual inspection and noticed that there was grease around the CV boot. The problem started about five days ago (or at least the noise started appearing five days ago). Three weeks ago I had the struts replaced, so I'm wondering if they could have torn the boot while replacing the struts, or if they didn't notice the issue.
Is the CV joint shot, considering this is only an intermittent sound, or is there something else that could be happening? Also, what is a typical repair cost for a CV joint (or half axle replacement) on a 2007 Mazda3?
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I have the most annoying high-pitched squeak/whine coming from my front left tire. For those who cant see the video, its making a high pitched, metal on metal noise... at all speeds... especially when making slight turns... my foot was not on the brake when the video was taken (coasting around the parking lot at around 10 mph)...
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What in the world is this clicking/ticking noise? It is the loudest thing in the engine bay, and as you can hear, it does NOT sound normal. It appears to be emanating around/under the fuel rail.
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