As title states, I scanned my gti and got P0420 (nothing new here) and P1136. I did some searching and looks like vacuum leak can cause this, however I also read that it'll affect my idle. I replaced MAF 2 years ago with a brand new OEM one, my idle is NOT rough, at all.
View 1 RepliesI suspected I had a vacuum leak somewhere, was told it wasn't likely. Just installed a tune in the evening drove it 15 miles was pretty sure I had one.
Installed Forge DV the next morning it was evident I had one by the sound the DV was Making. I checked the car head to toe and found two lines had broken apart. I replaced them will silicone lines and it appeared to be fixed.
Drove it 5 miles and the 'turkey sound' came back. (This is the sound that I originally heard and confirmed I had a vacuum leak somewhere)
I searched all over there car, had a second set of eyes that was mechanically inclined and we found nothing obviously causing a problem. We ended up just taking off the Forge DV and testing it by hand it held up and re installing it and securing it.
Strange enough that fixed the problem (no other hoses were tampered with while we were inspecting)
Drove the car home about 15 miles and stopped in a drive through. At some point while sitting something happened. Cause when I left the drive through then I noticed the car seemed to be lacking at low end, turned down the music and I could hear the turkey call. I left the car alone for the night. Thought maybe heat jas a factor in this. Drove it this morning and it was just how I left it. I inspected the hoses and found no change. I took the DV off and inspected then re installed. I noticed the turkey call was not as predominant but still completely present.
I need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
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Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 05 1.8T Jetta 116,000miles. and need diagnosing it. It misses all the time. Has new plugs I tried two other sets of coils (from my 2.0 a4 and my dads passat) and it made no difference. The SAI was taken out but nothing is blocked off. Also the coil pack wiring harness has cracks on the big brown wire where it goes down along the block. I'm getting these codes on my vag-com.
16687 cylinder 3 misfire
16686 cylinder 2 misfire
16688 cylinder 4 misfire
17766 cylinder 2 open ignition circuit
17763 cylinder 1 open ignition circuit
17769 cylinder 3 open ignition circuit
17772 cylinder 4 open ignition circuit
So am I correct in thinking that it's from the cracked harness? An not a vac leak?
I bought my mk4 GTi about a year ago. The paint around the rear wheel well all the way down to the rocker started to bubble quickly and I can see now it's all rotted. Looks like someone covered it up for a quick sale as it all happened very quickly. Anyway, I'm now looking to repair this and want to make sure I take the best route. I linked some pictures. I've been told to cut it out, weld a patch panel, and epoxy primer then build with bondo and go through painting procedure.
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I'm owner of a VW GTI 2011 Stage 2 APR
Chip Stage 2, APR Intake
Today I got a Check Engine light, I plugged my scanner and read: P2404/009220 EVAP Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit: Implausible Signal. But I realize that I have 2 tube near the motor that doesn't have anything on it.
Got a CEL tonight while driving. Originally I was driving and the light came on saying that my gas cap was loose. I corrected the problem when I got home and tightened again. The light stayed on however. I ran a scan with the OBDII and it gave me a code for EVAP- Very Small Leak .
I was reading around and some people suggested the MAF. Which would make sense because I recently had all of that stuff off and gave the engine a deep cleaning while it was exposed. I just don't see how the MAF could relate to the code my car is pushing?
Had a P2181 come up twice now... both on startup on a cool morning. Came on again this weekend. Monday morning I noticed a small coolant leak under the front of the car directly in line with the passenger headlight, but it only leaks if I park the car with the front down a slope. I parked uphill on Monday night and no leak in the morning, but I backed in facing downhill on Tuesday and had a small leak when I checked late last night.
So, last night I broke out the UV/black light -- G12 seems to fluoresce yellow'ish. I couldn't see much, so it is a small leak. There is some wetness on the bottom passenger side of the rad that's dripping over the back side of the front bumper/lip. No wetness around any other hoses, thermostat housing, temp sensor, turbo lines. But that's all from the top view. No time yet this week to get it up on stands to pull the bumper/splash shields for a closer look either.
I am little concerned tho as there's some wetness around the valve cover and when I pulled the oil cap my eyes suggested a bit of fluorescence under the cap and inside the valve cover. I'm a little worried oil and coolant may be meeting up somewhere... And to think... I was just in the process of getting geared up to do brakes and plugs before getting a modest tune (stage 1).
I have a 2000 1.8L that's great. I have seen a reference to Vacuum leak diagnosis. I have a check engine light on and it has been for a while. the car still runs well and gets fine gas mileage. Coed is 1136. Is there a specific hose I should check?
View 7 RepliesI popped a code this morning PO442 emission control evap [small leak]. Would this be a vacuum hose leak? I did both heads about a month ago. Any way to narrow down the troubleshooting on this problem?
View 6 RepliesI'm working on a 2003 Jetta GLI 1.8t (MT and 140,000m if it matters). The CEL has been on for a couple of weeks because of an exhaust leak throwing a catalyst efficiency code. After I make this post I'm going to run down to the advance auto I used to work at & see if I can borrow the scanner to see if there's anything new, but as of right now I don't know. I'll update the thread if I find anything.
The car started yesterday AM perfectly fine. Started again when I left work around noon. No problems with the start, idle, acceleration.. it's all good.
3 hours later I tried to start it to go pick up my kid from school but it just cranked without firing and would not start. I took care of business with the kiddo and then started trying to pin down the problem.
1. Opened the door & listened for the fuel pump to prime.. No sound.
2. Noticed the dome light is on.
3. Checked ALL of the fuses on the side of the dash.. All are fine. Turned key to listen for secondary prime.. no sound.
4. Bought Fuel pump relay & replaced.. no change.
5. Cursed.. a lot
6. Bought fuel pump.. replaced.. no change.
7. Cursed a lot more.. and cried a little too.
8. Noticed the fuel pump was now priming with the key being turned, but still not when I open the door.. Dash indicates the known CEL, but now I notice that the EPC light is on too (this could be from all the fruitless cranking drawing down the battery charge)
9. Figured I'd throw in a new crank angle sensor cuz of the EPC.. no change.
10. Shot starting fluid down the intake.. didn't hit a lick.
I feel like I'm at a dead end.. It's acting like a bad ignition control module, but there's no such thing on a vw 1.8t.
so my girls car is throwing an evap code (P0442) small leak detected. I bought a new oem gas cap and replaced the purge valve solenoid under the hood. that didn't work, CEL still comes on about 100mi after clearing the code.
I have checked the rubber hoses that were attached to the purge valve solenoid when i replaced it and they are fresh, no dry rot or cracks that i can see. The hose on one side goes to a hard line that runs under the car to the back, the hose on the other side of the solenoid runs under the intake to the throttle body. That hose was fine as well. Connections were tight and i even put better clamps on the hose ends that attach to the solenoid. So I have ruled out that portion of the system (under the hood).
I also removed the rear seat to access the fuel pump. All those connections seem nice and tight, I don't smell any strong gas fumes indicating a leak so i don't think the fuel pump gasket is the problem either. Finally, i checked out the hard lines running under the car front to back and I see no apparent or obvious damage. I assume my next step is to pull off the rear passenger wheel well liner and asses the charcoal canister and the LDP connections, correct??
The last thing I will mention is, Idid notice the 2 fuel lines that attach to the fuel regulator are in pretty rough shape, however not leaking any fuel. Are both of these lines actual liquid fuel lines? I am thinking one of them is a vapor return which may be part of the EVAP system. If it's dry-rotted and leaking vapors could that be the culprit??
I own a cirrus 2000 which lately have been giving me trouble. I took it to a mechanic for tune up and ended up having a lot of issues. At the moment I am having a lot of rattle or hard driving. The car shakes alot and recently I took it for a diagnostic and the result was P0303 and P0305 and vacuum leak. What causes this problem and how can I get it fixed?
View 5 RepliesI had my fuel system cleaned by the dealership last weekend and I feel like I gained 50hp+ ... Now its throwing a P0171 about a week and a half later. My computer also listed P0174 under the pending codes or whatever the section was.
2003 F150 5.4L ... I cleaned the MAF sensor a couple weeks back which stopped a rough idle and I have put some 300+ miles on it since. about 200 miles since the fuel system cleaning.
I got home and popped the hood and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner. Guess it is a vacuum leak. I might need to stop using this ford house. I swear this is the second time there was a vacuum leak(I think, first time they said it was spark gap issue). I'll be heading back in the morning now.
Where I can find a good description of the 2.0 (engine code AVH) PCV system?
This may not be a source of many problems since I find so little on it. My son has a 2003 Golf 2.0. From the little, pretty non-definitive, info that I find it appears that there may not be a problem with its crankcase vent system but it would be nice to be able to find something to understand it better. It's leaking from the rear main seal. We're gonna fix that but don't want to have it reoccur because we didn't fix a potential cause of it.
I've found a couple of references that are observation based:
(1) Loosen the oil filler cap. If it bounces/pulses up and down then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(2) Remove the oil filler cap. If the engine starts idling like it has a vacuum leak the the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(3) Remove/loosen the oil dupstick. If the engine starts to idle rough then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
There seems to be nothing but a couple of hoses involved in the particular engine's PCV system. Not much to trace and nowhere is there any kind of valve, diaphram, etc. that I would expect to find. Can someone either explain this particular version of VW's PCV systems or point me toward a good source?
I have a 2005 1.8 TJetta GLI owned for about 2 months now. Gas cap warning pops up then goes away when I turn off the car then check engine light comes on. I've change the gas cap to new oem one changed the purge valve [URL] .... After a couple of weeks same issues again brought it to my mechanic he ran a leak detector and told me that there are Evap leaks. I read somewhere that I might need a need charcoal canister and a fuel tank.
View 12 RepliesGot 2006 Explorer back fron trans rebuild and probably unrelated but started getting P1405 (Large vacuum leak) and alternating "replace gas cap" errors. When I installed a new gas cap, error went from large vacuum leak -which I checked for on engine and found none using smoke test- to loose gas cap. So next, I changed the emission system valve which is right up front on rt. side of engine looking into engine bay. Now, error has returned to large vacuum leak. So new gas cap and valve. Error does not come back immediately after clearing. Takes about a week and then either get SES light and large vacuum leak error or just picture of gas cap on dash error. Note that when I remove gas cap, I no longer hear the "whooosh" of releasing a vacuum. Assume now it is in back by spare tire where I need to be looking. I note on emission valve that there is a schrader valve for testing vacuum....
View 6 RepliesI'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat 1.8T. When I start it up in the morning I hear a loud obnoxious noise like a vacuum leak from the engine compartment. It lasts for about 1.5 minutes then runs normally. After about a minute it starts up again and only last for about 7 seconds...ish. When I drive it afterwards, less that a half block or so, the CEL light goes on after 1 beep. Also, at that time I get a messages from the instrument panel that says "Emissions Workshop 1". I've read that it could be a simple damaged vacuum hose to the secondary air pump. Definitely a huge price difference to repair.
This morning is was colder outside than usual and the dash kept beeping and flashing the "Emissions Workshop 1" code intermittently.
I have 2 issues and wonder if they are related. I don't have a CEL but I'm getting a P0442 DTC with my code reader - EVAP system leak detected
Also, my ESOF doesn't work. The hubs will lock manually. Can this be related?
I've already cleared the code and it came back. My ESOF hasn't been working for a while but I just haven't had the time or motivation to look into it until now.
I tried the HVAC Test and there may be a slow leak in the system. I can get the vents to switch from defrost to face vents but it switches halfway back to defrost, both are on at the same time for 20 seconds, then it recovers and goes back to the face vents.
My 4wd relays seem to work as well.