Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Exhaust Keeps Leaking - Fumes Coming Out Of Engine Bay On Cold Starts
Jan 20, 2016
Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
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Well got back home for the weekend and after a 200 mile drive I shut the engine down and step outside and notice fumes comimg from the front of the car. After popping the hood and looking and smelling around. Well I drive to my parents house (30 miles) and notice smoke, I'm angry now and call Lexus to drop it off.
After 2 hours they still haven't figured it out and give me a loaner anyways they did confirm a transmission leak. We'll see what happens Monday. By the way just bought new struts, plugs, K&N filter, Winter tires what a waste. Look for it on classifides. So to date Water pump, Alternator, Valve springs etc, transmission. Odometer is at 103000 now. 2007 GS 350 RWD.
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I've had my car for 6 months and have noticed that when I start my car with the vent on blowing air I can smell exhaust fumes. It doesn't seem to happen every time and if I start the car with the air off I don't smell anything. I can turn the air on after ten minutes of driving and the smell is there at first then seems to go away, either that or I get used to the smell. My closest dealership is 60 miles away
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I'm pretty sure I have a blown head gasket. I have white smoke coming out of exhaust and the oil is brownish in color indicating radiator fluid is leaking into engine. The car has over 200K on it. I purchased Steel Seal. The guy I talked to from Steel Seal said if radiator fluid is dirty (which it is)than I should flush radiator before using product. I don't have money to replace the gasket and I don't have money for a new car right now. Can this be a fix that gets me through a couple months?
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My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
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I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
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I've noticed that when I start my car and its cold oil comes out from the exhaust and leaves little splotches on the floor I was wondering if this is normal or if I should be worried; I have an mk4 jetta with the 1.8t engine and a 3 inch turbo back exhaust if that matters?
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So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
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So after I start my car in the morning (it's garaged in AZ, probably 60 degrees) about 1 minute after leaving the house there is a real odd noise in the back passenger side of the car. It almost sounds like it's coming from the fuel door area.
Click Click Click Click pause Click Click.
Click Click Click Click pause Click Click
Click Click Click Click pause Click Click
Happens for about 45 seconds, and then it's gone and doesn't happen again. It's not correlated to the engine speed or whether the car is moving or not.
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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Have problem with Golf IV 1998 1.6 74KW.
Ignition is troublesome, takes few seconds to start. RPM stays still at 800 idle but when pressing down gas pedal it takes few seconds to accelerate to 2000+. While driving engine starts to sputter under 1500-2000, happens after every gear shift. 2000+ does not sputter much but car still feels very weak.
Everything works fine at the morning or several hours after last ride. Problem starts when car hasn't run in 15min - ~1hour, problem seems to go away only in several hours.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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2005 jetta. On the highway when I hit about 75mph I hear this loud humming coming from either the engine or the exhaust, I'm not sure. It disappears immediately once I cross about 82mph. What could this be? Why such a specific range?
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I was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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I have a 2002 GTI 1.8T with the AWP engine and tiptronic. There is a fuse in the picture below that blows as soon as the car is started. It is located next to the brake booster on the firewall. It does not blow when the ignition is turned on, just when the engine actually starts. I'm not throwing a check engine light, pulling a scanner code or noticing any of my electronics not working. I took a 20 AMP fuse out and replaced with another 20.....and have since blown 5 of them trying to diagnose the problem.
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2001 vw cabrio 2.0 .. The car starts and stalls BUT only if you give it gas. I replaced the throttle body and did the throttle body alignment using vas-pc , no problems at idle but as soon as i give i gas it dies, and it seems to die quicker at higher temperatures. When it dies i get codes P0121 and P1570 i clear the code , do the alignment , and same thing happens over again. I also replaced distributor , crank sensor, maf sensor , spark plugs, wires , rotor, tried different pcm reprogrammed, no vacuum leaks, the only thing i can think of now is the ecm relay? but its missing so is it using the fuel pump relay ?
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A little background on my Prius, I have an 08 that has around 179k miles on it and have never had any major mechanical problem. I have always kept up with routine maintenance. I use Synthetic oil and change it about every 6500 miles.
So, two weeks ago, it was time to change the spark plugs again. Carefully, I took out the old spark plugs and installed the new spark plugs. On the second spark plug wire and spark plug, I noticed a little bit of oil, so I wiped it off with a shop towel, installed the new plug, and kept going.
Interestingly enough, now I have a problem where when I first start my car (and only when I first start it) and I just have the interior fan running (not with the A/C on) I get some serious extreme exhaust fumes through my A/C vents and that wasn't happening before I changed the spark plugs.
Now my first thought was, "Shoot, what the hell did I do to my car?!"
Here's the weird part, once the ICE has warmed up and shut off for regular "ready" mode, I don't smell it ever again even if the ICE activates as I'm driving. Note that at this point, I haven't made any changes to what fan speed or setting the climate is on.
As soon as I turn my car back off, then back on again by pushing the power button, out comes the awful exhaust fumes again.
So, here's where the testing stage comes into play. I have tried everything I can think of. Yesterday, my father take the air box off and we made sure all of the hoses were attached and the recirculation hose didn't have a clamp. We replaced the clamp and resecured all of the hoses in the engine thinking that there might of been a loose hose with the exhaust recirculation.
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I have been getting exhaust in my car cabin since last fall. It is worst when I first start up the engine. Once I get driving, it's not so bad. Switching off the heat or recirculating the air does nothing to change things. I used a CO detector in the cabin and the alarm didn't go off, but it still worries me that I might be breathing in carbon monoxide. And none of the shops have been able to diagnose it, let alone fix it. The first shop installed a new 'flex pipe'. The dealer thinks it's coming from a gasket near the flex pipe. The exhaust manifold is not cracked. A muffler shop said there was no leak. Is it possible that exhaust is somehow getting mixed into the air via a faulty valve or vent?
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After I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
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About two years ago, I noticed the smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin of my 2000 Honda Civic any time the vents were set to pull air from outside the cabin. Switching the vents to recirculate would prevent the fumes. Looking under the hood, I found the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I replaced it along with the catalyic converter (actually one piece in this model) and two O2 sensors. Since the replacement, the problem with exhaust fumes remains. I have asked my mechanic to look at this a couple of times, and he could not find the cause. What to try next to diagnose the problem. We use the car frequently, and just have to leave the vents set on recirculate. This becomes an issue on rainy, humid days when recirculate causes the windows to fog.
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