Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Error Codes P 1137, P1297, P1171 Diagnosed
Oct 25, 2014
So my car has been running a little rough for a while(about 6-8 months now) and the CEL has been going off sporadically. The clutch went out last week and has been replaced fixing a large part of the issue, however the car still feels kind of rough in the 3k rpm range and up. I feel a strong vibration when I step on the throttle and the car hesitates to build power. On cold starts the car also has a rough idle where the rpms are hovering above 1k for a few minutes.
I recently took the car over to AU Tuning where they gave me a free diagnostic(Pacific German was charging me $100 just for a diagnostic!?). They told me the throttle body might need a cleaning but I was better off replacing the whole unit. They also discovered my air intake hose torn near the diverter valve and a 5 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator that was pressed in for added pressure.
Given that I just replaced the clutch, funds are tight and I don't have the money to replace everything right away
I should mention VAG-Com reported the following codes:
P1137 Fuel Trim: Bank 1 - System too Rich,
P1297 Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1171 Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator(G188) Implausible Signal
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I have a '10 tiguan awd wolfs. The other day I was stuck in traffic and the temp started to run away. Got home and a few checks. No coolant leaks and the 40A fan fuse is ok.
I did a scan and vcds found this:
006470 - Control Module 1 for Coolant Fan
P1946 - 000 - Defective
From what I've found the new(er) style control module is no longer a small brick; it's located within the main fan motor. I dropped the rad assembly, installed the new one and cleared the dtc code in the engine control module. Immediately the code comes back and the fans never kick on.
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I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side.
So I had them perform the coolant flushes. After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again.
SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues !
The check engine light came back on the next day. The service person invited me back and did not charge me this time because it was the same issue. I told them that I am not in the business of randomly changing parts on my car unless I am absolutely sure I know exactly what the problem is. HOWEVER, this time they kept my vehicle for a good week or two. Running it through various diagnostics tests overnight here and there.
They finally came out and said that they feel that I have a coolant system leak coming from my engine and that I need to replace my head gasket which is responsible for sealing the engine.
During my 1st visit, the codes were P0117 and P1150
During the 2nd and 3rd visits , in addition to those, there was one additional one that came up that I will post as soon as I find it !
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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I recently bought this golf and well gotta say very happy with it, W reg so 2000 model and it the 1.9 TDI SE variant, 29,000 miles and only one owner from new. But like many before me I have a air con issue.
So here's what I have looked at. Done the climatronic test with two error codes
04B6 Standing Time Signal
0318 Air Conditioner Pressure Switch
The blower works inside etc, but only blows warm air. I can hear the engine rev's change when I push the Econ button. So car is pretty mint but 15 years old, where should I start looking.
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I'm having some problems with my 05 1.8T GTI. I've had a check engine light for about 3 months and finally got a diagnostic tool (VAG V-checker). Right now I have one code 17748.P1340 Camshaft position sensor-G40/engine speed sensor -G28: incorrect allocation.
I researched a little bit and talked with some of the guys at the local VW dealership. From what I learned this could be related to (obviously) faulty camshaft position sensor and/or faulty engine speed sensor. So I've replaced both of these sensors and even cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor.
I cleared the code and after driving about 5 minutes the code came back. Also I recently had a P0300 and P0304 cylinder 4 misfire default code. So I've changed all of the ignition coils too since I heard they were recalled a while back.
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Just used Carista to switch to a single beep when reversing. Whilst I was in the app, just out of curiosity, I checked for error codes. B1423 appeared. I didn't expect to see anything as the car is brand new.
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2006 Toyota Avalon 72000 miles
Plugs and coil have been switched between Banks 1,3,5 with 2,4,6 code P0355 shows the same cylinder 5 after the switch. What's the difference between a PCM and ECU and which one do I have.
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Car was perfectly fine. Parked it in a parking spot, turned it off for a minute, started it back up, and BAM, Master Indicator Light is illuminated(not blinking), along with check engine light. (yellow, not blinking)
Code reader gives me these two codes: P0ac0 and P0afa
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A few months back, my wife (2007 Prius) was telling me that she had some stuff going on with it. I found the diagnostic test for the 12 v battery and it failed. So I replaced the 12v and everything was fine until about two weeks ago. Two weeks ago, she got a check engine light. Then she stopped the car and when she fired back up again, the light was extinguished. So, I figured no big deal. Yesterday, she went to leave and the car was lit up like a Christmas tree. So she took my truck to work and left me a note about this. She figured I would drive my garage queen Vette... but I chose to drive the Prius to see if I could figure out some things, which I did.
Here is everything that I noticed thus far:
First, I will start with lights. Brake System Warning light is on, Check engine malfunction indicator is on, Red triangle with exclamation point Master warning light is on, VSC Vehicle stability control system warning light is on. Then on the tv screen panel, the Hybrid system warning light is on. I ran down to O'Reilly's to see what codes it pulled, and this is what I have: C0200 Right VSS, C0205 Left VSS, C1259 Regenerative Malfunction, C1310 Malfunction H/V System, P1121 Coolant flow control, X2 Valve Sensor Circuit stack, P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack, P3015 Battery Block 5 Becomes Weak, P3016 Battery Block 6 becomes weak, and then a few more repeats.
What I have looked at and what I have noticed/experienced thus far; At the beginning of the day yesterday, when stopped at a light, the engine would turn on and then shut off frequently (approx every 20 seconds). A lot more than normal. As of today, the engine just stays on constantly... even after the battery indicator shows full, it stays running. The battery cooling fan stays running. Sometimes the car lacks power at start out, When slowing down, I tried selecting the "B" as I know that it would normally work as a trans brake and regenerate power, it doesn't seem to be doing that and it seems as though the tranny doesn't know exactly what to do. I checked the 12v battery again through the diagnostic and it says it was at 12.2v so that should be good. I noticed that the battery indicator will show full and then just drop down to one bar and then go back up to full and stay at full for a while. Lastly, I saw the inverter check and I did that by turning the car on (ready on) and I can see the fluid moving around and I can feel it in the tube and the fluid level is good.
It sounds to me as if the ECM/ECU may be bad. Or maybe the HV battery. I was leaning towards the ECM/ECU just because of all of the different fluctuations, but with electrical stuff, it could very well be the battery.
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Upon turning on my car and driving a few feet I had the Red Triangle of Death, Yellow VSC, Yellow (!) Indicator, and check engine light and I'm trying to figure out where I should start working on the issue.
The Codes were as Follows:
P3000 (subcode 123)
C0200
C1241
C1300
C1310
C1259
A little history:
About 3 months ago I had an issue with the hybrid battery and replaced a battery cell which stopped all issues. About 2 weeks ago I replaced the coolant inverter pump and until today there has been no errors, CELs, or any negative performance.
This is a Gen II, 2007 prius with almost 200k miles.
Unfortunately I had plans that I could not reschedule and made the drive to the location and drove back. I had serious battery drain and it was almost always at 1 bar of battery, sometime reaching up to 2 bars. There is also the sound of a fan coming from the back seat, which I assume is the HV Battery fan, but it is on regardless of if I have air conditioning or not. A/C is working fine. When I returned home the battery charged almost up to full bars, but when I came to a stop the battery drained in about 10 seconds leaving me with very low power to keep moving. After that whenever I slowed down the teal arrows showing a recharge of the battery were gone and the battery seemed to refuse to recharge.
Steps taken so far:
I topped off my engine coolant in the front reservoir as it seemed a little low, but I didn't add much before it was full. The other reservoir near the engine was just about full and taking off the other cap showed coolant filled to the top.
I tested the 12v battery with my voltmeter which came back reading 12.7.
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Here is my situation- back in 2014 I had a local mechanic replace my HV battery and 12V battery after the Red Triangle of Death. Well yesterday that triangle reared its ugly head again! (and cruise control stopped working) Since this mechanic has 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty on all parts and labor, I figured this should be covered. I drove my wife's car to work today, then after work drove the Prius over there to find them closed until Friday!
So I had the guys at Advanced Auto read the codes for me and got P3006, C1213, and C1259. I have done extensive reading and researching, much of it on this site on these codes, but my main question is this:
I commute about 20 miles one way, and on certain days my wife commutes 10 to 22 miles the opposite direction. There are 3 days we go opposite ways this week, and at least one that is completely unmanageable without 2 cars.
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I just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
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I'm reaching out to see if any other MQB platform owners who had DCC/Magride are experiencing suspension errors after upgrading to coilovers while employing a delete kit. Some of us S3 owners have been running into this issue after such an upgrade and using this kit by KW. I can throw a suspension error on demand in my S3 by taking a turn/curve at 40mph+ (highway on/off ramps work perfectly for this). A bumpy road or hard braking can also cause an error to be thrown.
Aside from the error being annoying sounding and looking it also re-enabled traction control. You cannot turn traction control back off until you've power cycled the car. This is a pretty annoying side effect that could also be pretty dangerous under the right circumstances. KW seems to think their kit is operating correctly and that the height sensors are out of range due to lowering the car. Currently there's no way to adjust where the height sensors sit so in my personal opinion this seems like a massive oversight on KWs part and their product is not working correctly.
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Add a few codes come up today ... P2187 & P218. Bank 1 & 2 running lean at idle
Haven't been able to find a definite answer..
Replace purge valve?? (P/N?)
MAF??
Fuel filter??
I keep getting engine codes and 265 miles per tank.
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Any LED I can throw in the footwells / license plate area that won't throw a code? I'm using the ones from superbrightleds.
They worked everywhere except the license plate and the footwells. Everytime I get in my car I have to see (check license plate lights!) and a bulb out icon.
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I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
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So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
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CDP ERROR 3. I have the OEM Premium CD player on my 2002 GTI and it is holding my CD hostage. What do I have to do to get the CD out, and once I do, will it continue doing this, or is it just some random malfunction? i want my CD back...
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So finally got past the smog cert issue and a bad map sensor in the intercooler. However, during the smog test, I was informed I am getting low air pressure in the intake! What causes this? A bad MAF? a leak? I have replaced the EGR, and all rubber that connects hard pipes. The only piece not changed out during the rebuild is the plastic flex line from the airfilter box to the turbo intake.
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When checking my check engine light , I got P0021 a cam timing error, but my mk4 Gti runs perfectly ??
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