Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Temperature Rises When Heat Is Turned Off / Hard Pull
Sep 2, 2014
I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
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2003 1.8t gti ... Today when I got in my car...it fired up perfectly normal but when I got in it from leaving school it took 5min to fire up. The engine turned over but wouldn't fire all the time as if the spark plugs were bad. So I bought new NGK spark plugs and had the same issue just a little bit ago.
I know the obvious thing would be to change the ignition coils but they're out of stock everywhere so I have to have them shipped. My question is is the ignition coils the problem? They looked a bit worn but nothing serious.
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I have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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Our B5.5. wagon with 1.8t and automatic just went in for recall work. Embarrassingly, I don't even know what the recall was for, I only remember something about cars catching on fire.
Since we picked it up the AC only works for maybe 10 minutes at a time and then switches off. The engine temp gets really high and then cools back rather quickly. Occasionally the temp warning goes off. We scheduled an appointment to take it back in to the dealer but of course they can't take it till next week.
In the mean time, have any of you experienced something similar? Perhaps the AC goes off because of the engine temp sensor? Better to overheat the passengers than the motor? If so then the problem is the temp or the temp sensory?
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I have a 2010 chevy silverado. No matter where I turn the blower selector switch, it always comes out of the vents. Also no matter where I turn the temperature selector knob, it's always cold. It's a company truck that I can't get fixed soon because of downtime and I'm not supposed to take it to get fixed on my own time. It was 37 degrees this morning on my drive into work.
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I only see this issue after I've been driving a while and I've just topped off. I don't always use the same octane, (I'll use higher octane on long drives) so I may be mixing octanes on these occurrences. But I will have a problem getting the car turned over after filling up. I hold the starter on and pump the gas to get it started (maybe 5-10 seconds).
2.slow BEV engine
2004 GL
107K miles
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I have a 2003 Jetta 2.0L. I've noticed for the last few days that my engine temperature has been getting pretty high. We're going through a pretty intense heat wave where I live and that surely part of the problem but I've also noticed that two large fans at front of my car don't start up right away when I start the car. Is it supposed to be this way? Do they only kick in when the engine reaches a certain temperature?
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About 4500 miles ago, I had the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and all the accessory belts replaced and now, the water temp gauge sometimes rises rapidly from "normal" all the way to the "red" and back within about 15 seconds! This is on a 2006 Elantra GT
Should I replace the "coolant temp sensor" or do I have a real problem that needs repair?
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My 2006 Audi TT 3.2 is making a noise that sounds like a chicken. It rises with revs too.
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I have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connecter and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning. I've searched and searched without being able to narrow down a solution.
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Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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2001 Jetta GL, 2.0L, 170k miles.... It won't start and it's not likely the fuel pump. After the car has sat for a while, I hear the fuel pump spin up when I open the door. It turns over just fine. I pulled a spark plug, attached it back to the wire, held it close to the head, and when the engine turned over, no spark. Is that still a valid test for spark? I haven't had to diagnose a spark issue for so many years, I don't know whether that has changed.
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I have 2002 2.0 Jetta that I totaled. I found a 2000 2.0 Jetta that had no engine or tran. I swapped the entire wiring harness with the engine and trans from 2002 into 2000. I even swapped the doors. The cluster, steering column and all. I am still in the process of getting a few parts to finish it up. At this point, the only thing not hooked up is the headlights and the radiator. I hooked up a battery and tried to get it to turn over today. I turned the key to the on position and the cluster did not do anything. The engine turned over very slowly in the start position.
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Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine is off?
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I have seen a few thread about this on many VW sites. People with doors that when you unlock doors don't open from outside until you open from inside or you have to give the door a slight push closed and then it will click and open with 1 pull of outside handle. The problem is the door latch/striker whatever you wanna call it that mounts to the car body itself. It needs to be adjusted up or down just a bit. My pass door would not open with first pull then I read somewhere about people pushing door and then pulling on handle for it to open. So I went and played with latch. Moved it up about 3/16" and door works perfect.
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Mk4 Golf City*, 2008, gas, manual, sunroof. Canadian budget-model.
Mysterious noise like WOMMMMM, WOMMMM itinerantly: Noise is only when air conditioning is on and the engine is warm. I can feel vibrations in the brake pedal. *You can't hear the noise under the hood*. It is quite loud in the cab, though, definitely coming from under the dashboard.
I have stuck my nose in. I removed the glove box and listened to the blower motor, it seemed to be coming from further toward the driver's side. It will be like wmmmmOMMMMM WOMMMMM pause WOMMMM like something is vibrating too close to something else and the friction causes it to go back to where it was.
I hit a speed bump going a bit fast. I broke the small cooling fan somehow so it was just loose hanging on its hub. I had that repaired but the noise hasn't gone away. It seems to be getting more frequent but so far there isn't any indication of the car suffering. This is the second summer it has made the noise.It haunts my sleep.
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Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine os off?
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My left side, rear door I have to pull the handle two times to open the door.
1st time: opens 1/4 inch
2nd time: fully opens
I checked the problem a bit, saw the same problem on a MKV where they opened the handle and they had to adjust a little thingy ?
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On occasion the heat on my mk6 golf will start to blow cold when turned to the max click. Turning it back one click will cause it to start to blow hot again.
Friend at the dealer said he thought there was a software update for the hvac controls ....
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