Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Stopped Abruptly And Then Began Running Fine Without A Restart
Aug 23, 2014
I just posted how happy I have been with my 2004 GTI 1.8t, then something strange happened. I was coming up to a light at night, turned on my turn signal and hit the brakes. The engine stopped abruptly and then began running fine without a restart. It was only for a split second. The lights went out, car died and began to run again very quickly. I noticed later that the clock had changed to the wrong time. I have noticed that lately at night the headlights dim slightly when I brake. That's the only clue. New battery, Alternator checks out fine.
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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Today my check engine light turned on, not sure why car is still running perfectly fine ( from what i can tell ) .
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So I was driving my 2001 1.8t last night and put the pedal to the floor to make a yellow light and the check engine light began to blink and the engine started running very rough ever since. It idles very rough and it seems like I have lost a lot of the power.
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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I have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
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So Ive been having really annoying electrical issues with my Jetta. Everything works fine when driving, but sometimes when I turn it off after driving for about 20 min, the car electronics will not turn off and the engine will continue to run for about 7 seconds with the key out of the ignition and then sputter to a stop. The electronics do not turn off after the engine has stopped. I ripped apart the interior to look at relays and the ignition switch. They all look fine and they look like they are grounding fine. Do you think it might just be a bad ignition switch?
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The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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I have a 2002 VW Golf, with 203,000 miles on it. The check engine light is already on because the cat has worn out. I'm saving to buy a new one. However this morning about 5 minutes into my trip to work my check engine light flashed a few times. After pulling over and turning around to go back home the flashing stopped and the check engine light went back to be solid. Could the worn out cat have caused that? The car seems to run like normal. I did feel a little something when the light started blinking, but then it went away. The dealership and my regular VW mechanic have both said that the car is safe to drive regarding the catalytic converter until this winter when I get my tax return back. I have very little money right now for a repair. I should have more in a couple of months. The only thing that has caused the check engine light to blink in the past was the ignition coil pack. The car is on its third one and I know that feeling, this wasn't it. Plus I just got a new coil pack in June 2014.
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My 1999 Subaru Legacy (with a manual transmission) has almost 200,000 miles on it, and has been almost entirely problem free. Until today. As I drove up a steep hill (which I drive every day), the car didn't feel quite right--as if it was struggling a bit. Then, after reaching the top and driving on for about 4 more blocks, I suddenly heard an extremely loud and heavy clank, at which point the car abruptly stopped. I could turn on the engine, but that was all. The car wouldn't budge; in fact it could not even be pushed to the side of the road if it was put in neutral.The tow truck driver thought it was probably the transmission, but he wasn't sure and also said he had never encountered anything quite like this.
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Starts right up, runs fine. No CEL. No warning. No symptoms. It just stops running. It may or may not start right back up, but when it does start back it runs as fine as it was running before it quit.
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I have a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T manual transmission... I just purchased it...upon starting it up, it runs fine... After I have run it for a while, it gets a distinctive, constant, pretty fast ticking sound near the engine...
It's hard to pinpoint where it is coming from, but it seems to be coming from the right side of the engine or from an EGR valve?
It only makes the ticking sound AFTER it has fully warmed up and i have driven it awhile...and only at idle...if i rev up the engine, it goes away instantly...but starts again when it idles...
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01 jetta vr6 5 speed. Alright so earlier today I pulled out the driveway. (Hard) was in 1st gear around 3 or 4 grand and I stomped it. Got to 6 grand and hit 2nd. Took 2nd to 6 grand and let of around 60 mph. After that I short shifted into 3rd, 4th, then 5th. I noticed going into fith was hard. Had kinda rev match to get it. I stayed in 5th till I got to my destination roughly 4 miles. When I came back out to leave I had a hell of a time getting it into reverse. On my way home it was extremely hard to shift and now when the car is running I cant get it into any gear. This is what I did.
Car shifts fine with car off.
Car will not shift with engine running.
When started in gear with clutch depressed I can still let the clutch out and stall the car.
When starting car while in gear with the clutch NOT DEPRESSED the car jumps forward.
I can figure it out ove tried re adjusting the linkage. Nothing.
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Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
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[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
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Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
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So my temp light comes on in my 2002 gti 1.8t. The light comes on with the engine cold and not running, just keys in. I replaced the temp sender and the fan switch. I already checked the fuses, still good. The only thing i can think of now is the relay. There is plenty of coolant in the system as well. And I am not getting any CEL.
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Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine is off?
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I bought my 2001 Jetty w/2.0 only yesterday. While I was looking under the hood this morning, I noticed there was no fans running while engine was going so I took a trip to local auto parts store. O'Reilly's hooked up my Jetty and told me there was four error codes but they weren't sure what they meant. Here are the codes: P0302, P0301, P1128,and P1580. I have no clue of what these errors mean. I am not familiar with Volkswagen at all and there are no volkswagen dealerships close.
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I've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
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Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine os off?
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I came to a stop at a stop sign and the car just quit. Its a 02 12v vr6 5 speed...
So I tried restarting it and it will only crank...
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