Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Sputters For A Couple Of Seconds When Started In The Morning
Jul 28, 2014
I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
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Am I correct in thinking that Toyota recommend changing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles on the gen II?
The reason I ask is because on a couple of occasions the ICE ran rough for a couple of seconds when it first started up like it didn't have a spark or something on one of the plugs. Also I've noticed an slight drop in mpg, not just due to the time of year either. In winter I normally average 48-50mpg (UK) but I'm struggling to get mid 40's ATM. My pri has covered 75,000 miles so was thinking of changing them now to see if it improves?
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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2002 Sante Fe, 2.7L Belt squeals for about 10 seconds when the vehicle is first started up (engine cold) in the morning. Doesn't do it any other time until next morning. I had this problem 6 months ago and replaced the belt (OEM) and Dayco Tensioner. Now I have same issue again! What gives?
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I had the engine out of my truck (7.3 with e4od) to do manifolds. Anyway, I got it back in and started it up. Since there was air in th fuel lines it had to crank a couple seconds but started up. I looked and now fluid coming out, then it sat for a few minutes running and I took it for a drive. While sitting in the driveway it wa smoking a bit. But I thought it's from the oil I got in the exhaust while drilling two of the manifold bolts and soaking the bolts with ATF/acetone. After about half a mile I thought that maybe it's more oil then that would cause... So I went back. I looked and the inside of the exhaust is covered with oil, and the rear of the engine is also.
When it was out I capped all of the open ports so I could pressure wash the grease off. Also, I flipped the CCV so I could do the delete. During instal, I missed the cap on the CCV and it was not able to breath. I think that maybe it built up pressure and blew the valve cover gasket? It looks like it's coming from the right cover on the backside; I had not taken this cover off while the engine was out. How much pressure does it build? Is it possible that it could have blown the gasket out? I have done the oil cap trick to test blowby and it always passed the test. What it could be? For the leak on the engine and why it's in the exhaust?
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I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
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So this morning on my way to work, open highway, late for work... I did what most chewbaccas would do. Turn of ESP, and punch it! Well that quickly become an issue. My CEL started flashing for a couple seconds. As soon as it happened I let off of the accelerator, turned ESP back on, and coasted... lil bit loud in the back, but it normally is. (HFC, 3inch EIP Comp exhaust) The CEL went away.. but I'm nervous about what could have happened. I just replaced my Haldex Pump a couple months ago, and the rear diff was replaced 3-4 years ago. I haven't scanned it yet, I'll do that when I get home tonight... I tried to do a quick search in the forums but didn't come up with anything significant .
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I'm not sure if this qualifies for a "cold start" but my 1.8T sounds imperfect when I start it for the first time of the day. It'll rev around 1200 RPM, instead of the normal 800RPM idle if I start it after it had recently been turned off for a short period.
It sounds almost like my old car that had an exhaust leak, but not as obnoxious. When it settles back down to 800RPM it really purrs and sounds great. Is this normal?
2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T, not sure if I wrote that in my profile yet. 41k miles and recently serviced for 40k milage. Has sounded this way before and after the service.
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
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It was pretty warm this afternoon, had the AC on full blast. Drove into a left turn lane and stopped for the red arrow, the engine began spurring for a couple seconds. Then it caught itself but afterward felt the whole car shake for like a minute, drove off once it was a green arrow and nothing else happened. Has any one else had this or a similar experience happened to them? My Camry just hit 30k miles, I wonder if it just had a "spaz" (or whatever you want to call it) attack.
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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Sounds like a squirrel knocking on the rear hatch for a few seconds. Is this the fuel pump by any chance??
What i have noticed is that the relay clicking in the CECM is no longer clicking, yet now i hear this knocking in the rear hatch area when i start it up after it sits overnight.
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I have a 07 Passat, manual 2.0T, 90 kmiles.
There was a recall for some faulty circuit in the steering column, which got replaced in September. Ever since the replacement, about once a week (with a daily commute of 40 miles each way, mostly congested highway), the following happens:
First the engine revs up for a couple of seconds when I change gears, to 4-5kRPM. Then within 5 minutes, I get a "Parking Brake Fault" message, together with the yellow P light staying on. If I stop the engine, I cannot restart it for 30 minutes or so, there's a message that says "depress clutch first".
When I finally manage to restart, I won't have a problem for about a week. Is this common?
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I have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?
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I have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
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I have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
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I own a 2000 Ford F-250 5.4 Automatic. It tows my 5th wheel trailer very good. On our last trip it suddenly experienced the "check engine light" effect.
The light turns on randomly and either goes of after a couple of seconds or it doesn't go on when I restart the engine.It is mainly annoying, but when in towing it really hurts, because the engine switches into an emergency mode and stalls.
I read that the engine uses only 4 cylinders. I read many articles on the web about that light, but I couldn't find a solution. The thing is I brought the car to several repair shops but none read a code from the computer.
I think it's not a real fault but a misreading or maybe a cable that's grounding? The problem is, I can't bring the car to a repair shop, because there is nothing wrong with the car. How can I find the source of the problem?
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2007 ES350. Recently, I noticed when I turn on my engine in the mornings it makes a whistle/squeak-like noise. It the sound continues and eventually fades away as I drive after a mile or two.
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12v vr6 in my 2000 jetta. 174,000 miles, just recently got it, has cel and couple other lights, and the obd2 scanner I have will not work on it. Car wants to die after a big rev, and sometimes while driving. Not sure what the problem could be.
Will be taking it to autozone to see if the scanner works.
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I'm driving a 03 1.8 jetta with no mods. Whenever my Jetta sits for more than 24hrs, I have a hard time starting it. It turns over just fine but sputters to a stall once it fires. I do this 3 times before it revs high and stabilizes.
I changed out the coil packs, fuel filter and spark plugs. I can hear the fuel pump prime before starting so I assume that is working fine.
I dont notice any issues while driving either. Its just the start up. It particularly acts up in cooler temps and higher humidity (raining days too).
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