Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Sounded Like There Was A Hole In Exhaust At Highway Speed
Jan 3, 2016
I was driving to work last night and too many things went wrong simultaneously leaving my MK4 stranded.
2000 Jetta 2.0
185,000
Automatic
No check engine lights or warnings
-The engine sounded like there was a hole in the exhaust at highway speed. There wasn't because it's a new system
-Low coolant light came on. The flange connector at the firewall was torn off resulting in a stream of coolant pouring out
-It was dark but the engine almost seemed cockeyed by a degree or two
-Upon parking, the motor. sounded "clunky". Driving forward seemed OK. When shifting into reverse there was a pronounced clunk and the drivetrain wasn't happy.
-I turned the ignition off and that was the last time the car started. It turns over now but will not fire up. The video I attached is my last attempt at starting it before giving up.
My car is my job and I'm at a total loss on how to proceed???
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I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
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I did the flapper mod on the exhaust... pulled the hole out, put a screw in at the end of the hose and then capped off the inlet where the hose would plug into. So have doing that I honestly could not tell a difference. The car sounded amazing when turned on after sitting awhile b/c it was idling just above 1K before it went below and sounded normal.
Also, having my car next to a MK4 R32 with the flapper, the Mk4 sounded much better and louder with the same mod done to stock systems. It is very simple and to the point and with not really hearing much of a difference with it done and then a MK4 sounding 10x better got me thinking and I wanted to ask
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I have a 2006 Camry (manual transmission) w 165K miles.
Within the last year or so, it has gotten louder, more noticeable at higher speeds. Almost sounds like a hole in the exhaust. However, shifting into lower or higher gears doesn't change the tone of the noise. Taking it out of gear completely doesn't have an effect. However driving faster does. So I'm pretty sure it is drive train related .
Does this sound like a wheel bearing issue?
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If i speed onto the highway from 3rd gear it turns on ASR light and wont turn off until i turn car off. I just replaced MAF month or so ago with a cheap ebay one. If that has anything to do with it. 2003 MkIV 1.8T ...
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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I've recently started having a problem where the car will die/engine stall when going highway speed (60-70mph), but only when it is wet/raining outside. I retain electrics/radio, but it seems that the engine just turns off. I get no response from the throttle, the rpms just drop and drop. The last instance, it died on me when I started to apply throttle to speed up from coasting at 60mph in 6th.
If I try to restart the car, it will fire up every time, but will die on the rpm downswing after it first fires up. However, if I give the car revs and maintain them (4-5k rpm) when starting, it stays alive and I can drive away. I've even done this during the last instance where the car died and I restarted while coasting at 40mph. I gave it gas on the restart and drove away and the car resumed completely normal operation.
I got codes relating to the throttle body, misfires, and even a bad ECM! However, the next day when things dried up, it ran completely normal, and continues to every day it is dry.
Again, this only happens when its wet/raining out. I popped open the hood and the top of the engine and ecu/raintray seem dry. However, I do not have a belly pan. Also, the car is VF Stage 2 with the air filter in the passenger bumper area, but it is running the plastic shroud around it.
I will try troubleshooting by having the car at idle and spraying water in different spots in/around/under the engine bay to see if I can reproduce the issue.
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Was cruising on the freeway and all of a sudden my exhaust sounded like it has a leak!!! I gave it some gas and it got louder but the car didn't pull like normal??? No check engine light or anything crazy. I don't think the inter cooler pipes blew off because the engine didn't shut down and I was on cruise mode.
Its sounds like the turbo wants to spool but cant hold boost, can this be the diverter valve leaking or its blown?? I haven't had the chance to check which diverter PN# I have but Im pretty sure its the stock OLD version. I am the 3rd owner. 07 Passat FSi variant with 36K miles.
I hear the 07 FSi are know to have bad or weak Diverters.... I know I needed to go with a stonger TSi Diverter which I hope is the problem here....
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2005 jetta. On the highway when I hit about 75mph I hear this loud humming coming from either the engine or the exhaust, I'm not sure. It disappears immediately once I cross about 82mph. What could this be? Why such a specific range?
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Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
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Well lately I haven't driven my truck much. Usually only on the weekends if Im lucky. Well I drove it today and I noticed this weird noise on acceleration. I have the cam phaser tick and have had that for about 50k miles or so. I started to think I was getting a manifold leak and that's what I thought this noise was until when I pulled over and put it in park and revved it up I did not hear the noise again.
It only does it when you hit the gas until you get to a steady rpm. I only drove 5 miles or so. So I couldn't do much testing cause its late and I got to get up in 4 hours. I don't even know how to explain the noise. It kinda sounded like an exhaust leak but it was more of like a lite thud noise I guess. Like I said it only does it when I hit the gas when its in drive but not in park. I tried to explain it the best I could. I just hope its not phaser problems cause I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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I was recently experiencing problems with my front brakes. It sounded like it was grinding on something (it doesn't screech) whenever the speed reaches below 15 mph. I called up my dealer to take a look and upon investigation they told me that i needed to do the front brakes job but they could save the rotor (they charged me around $300). Is this common ? It is a daily driven car and i mostly drive on highways. I drive the 2014 RWD IS-350 F-sport model and just recently hit 17.8K miles.
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is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
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I just got a Walker SoundFX muffler and there is no drain hole for condensation. Should I make one?
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I travel highway daily at 70+mph and it's pretty annoying, nothing the radio won't fix but sometimes I like to have a conversation with passengers and find myself talking over it.
I have a 2DR Base, MFD 04/12.
I've tried the vinyl tubing thing and that did nothing. Had the dealer look at it when it was in for the service and they said it was "within spec", I stopped up there today and tried looking up any TSB's with the service advisor and most of the ones we found were for the GTI. My issue starts about 60-70 mph and gets worse the faster you go. The noise sounds like it's coming from the top of the window - almost like the window is cracked about 1/8".
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My DSG Autobahn 4 dr with 4800 miles has developed a humming and vibration at highway speeds and my dealer and I are stumped as to what it is. I don't really hear the humming until 60mph+ but then its a 1 second pulsing hum coming from the front of the car and I can feel some vibration through the pedals and floor board.
The dealer has checked all wheel bearings and actually replaced the passenger side front bearing. They have also rotated all the tires and one rim that was slightly bent was swapped with another wheel but this did nothing to eliminate the sound. I'm waiting for my dealer to get back to me of when a VW engineer would be available to have go at it.
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I have a 2000 Suburu Forester the has a hole in the exhaust. I noticed today, the car became very loud during acceleration.
I plan on getting a new car in the next few months, but I was wondering if I could temporarily fix this problem with a sealant or something like that for the time being?? I included a picture of the leak.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon with 190k. The exhaust(original) has a tiny hole in a pipe that looks like Y and splits to the two mufflers.
Can some thing like this get repaired or do you have to replace the entire exhaust?
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1994 celica GT 2.2L
Just happened last night, i was driving on the highway when i noticed my temp needle was reading about a 1/4 of an inch higher than normal. That's never happened before. It's always been rock steady right in the middle. I was doing about 80 miles an hour. i slowed down to about 65 and the needle went back to the middle. I sped up to 70 and the needle went back up again. So i slowed down again and it went back down.
Tonight i was on the highway again, but due to the freezing rain and hail, i was doing between 40 and 60. Tonight the Gauge never moved from the middle. It was steady all the way until i got on the off ramp at the light, Then it went up and came back down by itself. I didn't hear the fans come on. I went to a local parking lot to do some tests. I parked the car (gauge was in the middle), and reved the engine to raise the temperature. It went up and then came down. Fans did not come on. Strange. I them went back to my house. parked the car, put the hood up and tried to make the fans some on. Here's where it gets interesting...
while in my drive way, the needle goes up, both fans come on high speed, needle drops. I then tried to do it again. Reved the engine for a second, i hear both fans come on high speed, but the needle is in the middle. It did the same thing again with the needle in middle again.
There are no external leaks. engine oil is full. Both fans work, but on high. There is no debris covering the radiator. I replaced the thermostat around april 2011,( it was not a genuine toyota part and didn't have jiggle valve. is that ok? it's been fine all this time.) Timing belt and water pump have not been replaced (so i've been told).
Tomorrow i will check the coolant in the radiator, ignition timing, and check the radiator cap. What are the odds of it being the cooling fan switch or a relay? i only ask because it hasn't come on low speed since this happened. Will warm car up in drive way and see tomorrow.
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My fathers truck starts, runs, idles fine but once on the highway at constant speed, the engine misfires or hesitates causing a small buck or jerk but continues on down the road. The SES light is on. He took it to O'Reilly and they put some kind of computer on it and (I think) it said misfire in a cylinder. He replaced one of four O2 sensors, pickup in the distributor (not sure what this is called), wires, and plugs with no cure. This problem is very strange as again, it only does it a constant speed; truck runs fine at idle, acceleration, deceleration, startup, etc. There may be a slight sulfur smell during idle and there is a decrease in gas mileage.
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