Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Skips When Adjust The Steering Column
Nov 1, 2014
I picked up a golf mk4 with low miles on it and have been working out the bugs - so far I changed out the dreaded power steering rack starter crank position sensor - dam theses cars are tough to work on but I actually enjoy it and could not have been successful without vwvortexx guiding me through- got a ton of suspension parts waiting for me to put in but I have this problem that's dogging me - searched like crazy couldn't find anything ...
When I adjust the steering column the engine "skips" and when I push the wheel in and out (as opposed to up and down) I can actually get the engine to cut out completely. (I should also mention that according to dealership receipts the PRNDL switch has been replaced along with repairs of wiring harness)...
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My V10's steering column has lost the ability to adjust up and down. In and out is still fine though and the position memory works, just for in and out too. I was thinking that a fuse may have gone but I can't see a fuse dedicated to this in the manual. No doubt it'll be something much more complicated than that though.
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I just changed the clutch on my jetta and my car is in gear I don't know how to adjust the gears
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Is it possible to increase the steering boost, so that the wheel is easier to turn -- like with VAG-COM? I'm not a big fan of the heavy steering.
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Just on my way home during the last few turns down the underground parking, I found the steering wheel column making some squeak noise. Is there anything I should check before bringing it back to the dealership?
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[URL] ..... Lately this clicking has been happening every time I turn the temp dial all the way to the heat setting.
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So yesterday I was on my way home from work, and I had smelled a little burning and then I saw smoke from the steering column???? i pulled over and it had stopped no lights came up? the car is fine now..? I don't know whats going on?
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I was driving yesterday evening when my car started to cut out, it kept restarting as I was doing 70 on the motorway. So I decided to pull over.
I restated the engine and all seemed fine. Until another few miles down the road To my driveway where it again cut out.
As it stands now it will start but cuts out after a minute or so and will not re start unless I take the key out and keep trying.
I had the car scanned by a mobile mechanic who told me my steering column was the only thing that scanned up. Which made sense because a few days ago an airbag warning came up and stayed up.
I have read up a bit about the steering column on the passats which have the exact same symptoms of cutting out the engine. Could this be the same with the phaeton?
The car is a petrol 3.2 litre that also has an lpg conversion. I don't know if this makes any difference?
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I have a 2000 Jetta GLX VR6, automatic, that I have been going over for my son. The passenger side mirror doesn't adjust when I shift into reverse. I moved up,(towards the top of the housing) a little. Shifted to park and then back to reverse and it moved up again and doesn't return. I have changed the mirror switch, the mirror motors, and have dis-connected all the electrical plugs on the transmission. I figured the plugs needed to be plugged and re-plugged to clean the terminals, but no luck. Is there a switch or sensor that needs to be replaced on the transmission? All the fuses are good. What needs to be done?
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I am getting an electric sounding click coming from the steering column, ECU area. It does not happen all the time. I heard it when I first got the car and it just started up again.
I am thinking the Unitronics chip I just got is having the ECU relearn everything and that is causing the clicking.
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My car is 2 months old. About one week ago, I began hearing a subtle clicking sound when turning the steering wheel fatter than 45 degree on either side. At first I thought it came from the turning signal mechanism doing "double clicks" since it sounded merely the same albeit being a bit quieter, but now I think it emanates from just behind the steering wheel.
Since then the problem got worse, not louder but more frequent. Maybe its just me being more aware and looking for it, I don't know. Also this weekend I changed my set of wheels for 18" with low profile tires, coming from the stock 16" vw mags. May not be related since the problem started before I changed the wheels, but since it got worse.
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I am working on a salvage car that I bought recently. It was stolen, they cut the wire harness to the GPS system and messed up the steering column. I replaced the steering column with a 2012 GTI steering column and steering wheel. I bought a RNS 315 but I dont have any luck finding a wiring connector for it. After I installed the steering column, when I turn the ignition key nothing comes on in the gauge cluster. I know the car wont start till the key is programmed. My question is do I need to fix the wire harness so that when I turn the key ON the cluster will light up? Where I can find the connector for RNS 315. Regarding the airbag, will a GTI airbag work on a Golf TDI?
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2008 R32 with 17k ... What might be causing this sound which is just a faint clicking clicking sound that happens intermittently when driving.
I have an appointment at VW dealer tomorrow but they do not want to take ownership as I have replaced the head unit and have steering wheel controls for my Alpine IVA 505.
It is not electronic as the controls are solid state and the can bus adapter is behind the head unit. It seems mechanical but what could it be? I definitely notice that at a stop when rocking the brake that create the start of the clicking sound .
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I have a 2008 Pontiac G6 GT. I loved my card until I had to replace the rotors and changed to an all-weather tire. Now, I can feel a vibration in the steering column; a vibration in the seat and floor; there is a noise in the front of the engine when I am going over bumpy or icy roads; and the car pulls to the left when I have been stopped at a light or an intersection. Oh - When re-starting on a slightly icy or gravel-y road, I also get a sound that sounds like gears grinding -- not like the traction control is kicking in.Frustratingly enough -- the car can go from feeling like it is driving "tight" -- like the power steering is out -- to driving "loose" like the steering wheel is ready to fall off the car and vibrates like it never has before. No one notices the vibration but me (which is frustrating because I have driven my car over 30,000 miles, and what seems "normal" to others, is not "normal" to me).
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I have a issue with my golf 1.9tdi when i start the engine it shakes really bad and feels very rough when sitting in the cab steering wheel vibrates really Bad and engine looks like its going to fly out of the car but when i apply throttle the vibrations go only happens when idling.
What it could be i have done a Diesel Purge, changed the fuel filter, cleaner the EGR Valve, changed the coolant temp sensor, checked the injector loom for continuity and resistance everything was fine, checked resistance on injectors readings was all the same, flywheel seems fine when running (no movement) and no change when i dip the clutch, engine mounts i changed the right hand side one all the rest are fine and not penetrated.
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So this just started randomly about three days ago. I was listening to music through the ipod adapter and all of a sudden the song changed, then a few seconds later my song changed again. it continues to happen but is completely random. Sometimes songs will play all the way through and sometimes it skips.
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Have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4WD with around 230K miles. Recently, it has been 'skipping'. When we are driving or idling, it's like the engine sputters out and jerks along but it never stalls and always starts. Had it to dealer and another mechanic - plugged it in said it was catalytic converter and 02 sensor. We changed those, along with: plugs, wires, air filter, oil. That did not fix it. What this could be. Where else to start to look for this vehicle. It's been the greatest little truck.
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First of all, its 5.7L V8, it's been very well maintained, I've had my fair share of problems but nothing that has been that serious, except for the "check engine" light for the O2 sensor.
For about the last 4 months i've had the problem of the truck sometimes jerking while on the road. Once i started to speed up it seemed to not speed up which when it did, it jerked a bit. That was in the beginning.
AS OF NOW, the jerking has stopped but every now and then when i pull out of the garage and start to turn onto road it turns off, but all the status lights are left on. & when turn the key to turn it off and restart it starts again every time. Ive noticed that i was better off with the "check engine" light on then now because every time it is off it has these problems.
Also, when I barely start to tap the brake, again not all the time, sound skips on the radio. & this always happens when i tap on the brake & this happens more frequently when the "check engine" light is off.
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have had many problems with my 2003 Accent. I am not a mechanic, but I suspect the problems are related. My engine sometimes stalls when I sit at a red light. I drive about twenty miles to work. On a good day it will just sputter occasionally. On a bad day it will stall as many as three times. It also frequently "skips" a little while driving. It's like a split second hiccup in engine power.
I also used to have a really hard time filling the gas tank. It would take about fifteen minutes when close to empty. I have had it worked on three times over the past three weeks. First they replaced the timing belt (which I already knew needed to be replaced). Then they replaced something called a charcoal canister and blew out all the vapor vents(?) ( Again, I am not a mechanic). After that the car ran ok for about two days, and I can now fill the tank in about two minutes. But, it began stalling again, just as bad as before. So, they replaced something called a MAP sensor (MAFF?).
It has been a couple of days and the car hasn't stalled . . . yet. However, it still skips occasionally while driving, and my engine light has come on again. The mechanic says the code has something to do with a barometric pressure problem. what might be wrong with it?
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My check engine light is flashing and motor skips like a fouled plug. When I tried to change plugs the last plug to the right was pulled down so I couldn't get a wrench on it and covered in oil. How bad is this? Head or engine?
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My W12 Steering wheel seems to no longer adjust in the up/down range when I use the button on the side of the steering column. It does move in/out. Is there a way to reinitialize or calibrate the steering wheel.
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