Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Movement Pointing That Motor Mounts Going Bad
Sep 7, 2015
I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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So ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
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So I had been noticing a bit of wheel hop in third gear before my UM flash. Just got the flash a few days ago, and I love it. But since then two things have arisen:
- When sitting at idle, the car vibrates. I can feel it through the brake/gas pedals and steering wheel. I didn't notice it prior to the UM tune. It's like an undulating feeling even more than a vibration.
- When upshifting, I now seem to get a clanging sound/feeling if I upshift anywhere less than about 3200 RPMs. It doesn't always happen, and it won't happen if I'm really fast with engaging the clutch after taking my foot off the gas. But it is disconcerting.
Prior to the tune, I had gotten used to the sort of bucking and whatnot when you let off the gas and learned how to shift to minimize it. But now it isn't as easy to do a mellow, smooth upshift under 3000 RPM's...i.e. if I just want to pull away slowly from a stop. My question is, do these sound like symptoms of bad motor mounts? The car has just under 25k miles on it. The mounts are all stock. I was wondering if the UM tune was just enough extra power to put one or more of them over the edge.
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2002 Subaru Forester I took my car to the Auto Zone to read a check engine code. It came back as being a "knock sensor". Besides that I needed a battery, and when the guy was putting it in he said my engine was moving too much and that I probably needed motor mounts.
I was looking at a discussion back in 2010 and the Subaru specialist told the person needing motor mounts is rare for a Subaru, is that true? I'm taking it to a mechanic, what should I expect? how many motor mounts does a subaru have?
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Are the bolt and nut holding the strut to the wheel bearing housing the only things that need to be replaced when removing the strut? Anything else I should change while I'm in there? So far I'm just doing 034 strut mounts and bearings.
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Just noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
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So I just installed brand new coilovers and I quickly noticed a this problem. On the passenger side, when the wheel is lifted, I can feel a little bit of movement from the coilover and it really seems like it is the top bushing that is moving. I can see the metal top plate moving a little also. Everything is we tighten andI did the same thing as the driver's side but only this one does this. When the car is on the ground I can feel there is a bit of play in the wheel if I bang on it with my hand. Also, I know the gap on the top plates is normal, specially when lowered but again the passenger side looks weird and is much higher then the other side. What I'm I missing here ? Both side top bushing and bearing are also brand new.
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I have a problem with my golf 4 window. RR after washing it the window wouldn't go up again it just made a grinding noise inside but no movement when you press the switch, I watched a few videos on how to open the panel and I did and found this wire lying around like this I don't know what to do from here as the car must go for a test for registration and they check the windows. do i need to buy the entire back panel?
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000. My motor mounts have been slowly going bad for a few months now and they are now to the point where when I am slowing down as it is shifting down into third, it feels like I am being rear ended. My question is, is this doing damage to my engine and tranny or is it more of an annoyance.
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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I have a little vibration from the motor mounts which disappears with an extra soft touch on the gas pedal at idle. If I would keep the car I would change the mounts, but there are a lot of new parts already....I cleaned inside the plenum.....
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I am feeling more vibration at idle than I believe I've felt in the past. I can feel it in the seat more than I remember before. Granted, it's not like the car is shaking or anything, but I can feel it more than I think I should. Could this be the motor mounts?
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I had my motor mounts replaced about 2 weeks ago with APR ones and noticed that vibrates more than before at idle. is this normal? One guy told me that it takes about a month for the new motor mounts to adjust and then it will not vibrate that much. after two weeks no changes. Also I noticed that they did not put the rubber cover on the left motor mount (passenger side) could this missing rubber cover bring any issues on the short term?
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After the very hard runs up in the mountains at SoWo, I've began to experience some engine movement when the car shifts at low speeds, i.e. stop and go traffic. At its worst, I've experienced a clicking or almost grinding-like sound sound when said engine movement (during the low speed shifting/accelerating/stopping) takes place. These noises tend to come and go. They were really bad at one point on the ride home - when an accident in Atlanta brought traffic to an almost standstill and we were stuck in bumper to bumper traffic. Today however, no noise at all.
I took a quick look under the car and my HPA core mount (which I thought may have completely fallen out for some reason ) is still there. I haven't jacked the car up yet to get under it or put it up on a lift but considering the symptoms, I have reason to believe my OEM pendulum mount may be damaged, or that the pendulum bolts may have come loose after the very spirited driving in Helen.
At high speeds, there is no sound and no (apparent or noticeable) increase in engine movement.
[URL] .... This thread in the MKIV R forum is closest to the symptoms I'm experiencing.
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I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
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I have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
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I suspect I have an oil leak where the oil pump mounts to the motor.
It looks fairly simple to replace, but I was reading in the Haynes manual something about the timing chain?
So I don't know if it's more involved than I think.
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I replaced the motor mounts, and now there is a vibration at speed (70 or so). I've taken it to Michigan and back, so it is probably broken in. Can these things be put in improperly?
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A quick question, currently an observation.. but a concern. we purchased our 2012v used at 55k miles.. She's running great, MPG's are above rated expectations. (ave 47.2 so far) We are currently @ ~59400 miles.. So, all seems OK w/the exception of this strange noise.. I'm familiar with the typical prox pulse sound at low EV speeds.. and this noise is not that one.
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