Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Cranks But Doesn't Start - Code P0322
Aug 31, 2016
My 01 Jetta 2.0 started having issues a few days ago. The engine would crank, but wouldn't start. Wait a few minutes and it would start right up. I go to start it the next day and it would crank, but not start at all. I pulled the P0322 code and replaced the crankshaft sensor along with a new fuel pump, and spark plugs just to be safe.
Next, I checked for fuel and spark, which I have both. The car still won't start and seems to lose a charge on the battery pretty quick. At this point, there are no codes showing up. Could the engine be flooded from trying to start it so much?
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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So I bought a project golf vr6, but the head and some of the components were off, I have all the parts but I just cannot figure out why it is not wanting to start, it cranks over but does not start...
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I have a 120k miles manual 2000 jetta vr6 12v. I was having check engine issues so i put in a reader and showed me problems at catalytic converter. I don't remember the code, and no longer have a reader...
I was told to replace the oxygen sensors in both banks as well which i did.
I opened up catalytic converter to inspect and now the car will get no spark, the engine turns, and the display shows engine stop.
I was also told to put the oxygen sensor further away with an extension cord but not sure if that plays a part.
Does the catalytic converter is causing it to not spark?
Could there be an issue with maybe a sensor at the crankshaft that checks for motion?
What the starting sequence and dependencies are or what failures I could have that prevent the spark?
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
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I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
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Last year I had an issue with starting my 1.8t Jetta Gli. Every couple of weeks, the car wouldn't start unless I keep trying or come back after a couple of hours. I then thought it was the cranks sensor and had it replaced. Unfortunately, the problem is back! The idle seems a little jumpy, car isn't as smooth as I'd like it to be. It also doesn't seem to have a strong start. I can't figure out what it exactly is, and I don't want to start changing random parts. I was debating on perhaps getting a new fuel pump, coilpacks...
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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Recently my 01 Jetta 1.8T has started to not start like it should. Say every 4th or 5th start it cranks and cranks, I see the tach eventually flick a couple of times and then it finally fires up. It's also stalled while I'm driving, say when I stop at a light but will usually start up again ok.
After the not so good start I get the impression the car is kind of surging while driving - like a fuel supply issue although maybe the fuel pump has nothing to do with supply after starting?
So anyway my thought is perhaps fuel pump issue? I decided to try and search for my issue or fuel pump issues but it talks about things that happen when you open the drivers door which in my case isn't working properly (i.e., I believe it is a DLM as my windows sometimes all go down and I don't get any chime or door light when the door opens).
So just wondering if based on what I'm experiencing if fuel pump sounds likely and perhaps what further tests I should run. My battery is new and the engine does crank pretty good if that eliminate it. I guess I should be thinking fuel filter perhaps also.
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My cousins car died. cranks but NO start. It was not very well taken care of, but it is her daily driver. Threw a code 12, which is SOMETHING with the ignition.
Have replaced the...
distributer/cap/rotor
spark plugs
wires
ignition coil
valve cover gasket [unrelated HUGE oil leak]
100a ALT fuse
Timing is correct as far as i can tell, 12 volts at both wires for the ignition coil
Battery is good, alt is good...
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So, the very first time it happened was the weekend after I installed my new motor mounts I am not sure if it is a coincidence or if there was something that I touched while installing that is causing the car to act this way. So I notice that it's more common on the wet days even though I have started to doubt this recently as well. The instrument cluster illuminates CEL and EPC for a brief second and the car feels like it looses all power and sometimes even stalls when at idle but then after that goes away it runs like a champ. Also ever since this started happening the car is really hard to start after it sits off for few minutes when at normal running temperature. Right, when it happened I tried to scan it and I thought it was the scanner that was not able to communicate with it but that wasn't it since I have tried over 10 different kinds now( that includes the ones that have scanned my car with no problem before). I did have the CEL to stay on once but I still couldn't scan it and it went away by itself or I have reset it by disconnecting the battery. Its really driving me crazy and I am stuck but not giving up on this car, I love it too much and it's been very faithful to me so far! I mean there was literally two days recently when the weather was dry when I drove the thing without the random occurrence of EPC and CEL but it still didn't want to start when warm. In fact, one time after work after it has been sunny all day it didn't want to start when the engine was still cold as well.
The things I have replaced or tried so far that have not repaired it are:
*New Camshaft Sensor
*New Crankshaft Position Sensor
*New Purge Valve
*New Coil Pack
*Took off and cleaned my Throttle Body
*Checked with and OHM meter as many grounds as i could find between battery and they all checked good(the main engine ground looks good)
*Cleaned MAF sensor
*New Coolant Temperature Sensor
*Checked that all fuses were good and seated
*Verified that the k-line is good.
*Able to scan the ABS module and radio through vag com so i know its something with the ECU communication
That's all that I can remember as of now. the car went through many stages but here is how it looks as of now.
[URL]
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2005 1.8t gti wont start. The other day I was driving on the highway when a thin plastic type wrapping got caught in my serpentine belt. The car immediately died and I hit the gas and nothing and with no power steering i pulled over to the side.
Timing belt was done with water pump and tensioners
Spark plugs and coils are brand new
What fuel line to disconnect to test if the fuel pump works? Like I said in the title I cant hear the fuel pump priming. The engine was running 100% before this 2 techs saw it and the vw dealer i workrd at looked it over.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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My car is an AUG 1.8t with 153K miles and it has been running great since the timing belt change last summer. It died while driving it earlier today. I pulled a P0322 code which looks like it's for a crankshaft position sensor. I cleared the code.
After the car sat for about an hour I was able to restart the car and drive the car two miles back to my house. On the way back I felt the engine shudder and got an Engine Workshop warning, no CEL. I scanned anyway and found a pending P0322. Once I shut the car off it cranks but will not start.
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I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
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So i just spent over $1700 at a vw service ctr having a sched 140k timing belt replaced with thermo and fuel filter. This was 3 days ago and when i picked it up it was slower to turn over then got worse and todsy it won't turn over at all even when jumped. It cranks and blows black smoke. Problem is i'm 160 miles from that svc center and it's sunday. There is a vw svc center 14 miles away but i feel like it needs to ho back to where the work was done because it ran great before taking it there.
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I bought my first VW about 3 months ago (so excited!) It's a 2003 Passat, 5 spd, 1.8t. I've had one thing happen so far (until yesterday). On 4 separate occasions when I'd go to start it, it would crank for a few seconds before it would start. Then once it was running the EPC light would turn on. It seemed to be running normally but I turned it off and restarted it and it started normally and the light extinguished (the first three times). The last time (about a week and a half ago) it kept doing it each time I started it, and upon starting probably the 4th time in a row the MIL came on. I drove it about a mile, turned it off for a few minutes, then turned it back on and it started normally with no malfunction lights on. It's been normal since then. Until yesterday...
Yesterday as I'm accelerating from a stop light (I think I was in 3rd) all of the sudden the engine started running really rough and the MIL came on. I turned around and drove about 2 miles back to where I started at about 20mph. The MIL would be steady while coasting and flash while pressing the accelerator. I got a hold of a diagnostic computer and it came up with 3 codes...
1) P0322 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
2) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
3) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected PENDING
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