It appears the Engine By fuel line connectors are broken. I searched for DIY'ers on how to fix, but so far I only see those related to fixing other sections on the fuel line, not this upper section. It's on the passenger side. How to fix it?
View 3 RepliesSo Iv a couple weeks ago I bought a 1998 f150 and today I was gonna do the fuel filter and saw the line goin to the engine was broken and they put a rubber hose in line. The hose is only about 6inchs and I work at ford so I got the price on the whole fuel line running up to the engine. I was just wondering if any repairs that work for metal fuel lines.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
View 1 RepliesI need to replace the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail, it is old and corroding and drips out gas when I dry so I need to replace it. I have the new fuel line for it but how would I go about taking it off and the clamps? Just wanna make sure I am doing it right.
View 1 Replies1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.
I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.
I recently dropped my tank and one of the connector clips broke taking it off. How can I find anther connector or clip, I have looked at the ford dealer, napa and oriellys with not luck. It seems as if they don't exist. The ford dealer wants me to buy a new fuel line. Also I did something that now I know is not good but I cut the connector out to take to the parts stores and they said that it can not be put back together. Is this true?
View 8 RepliesJust dropped off my 2 door GTI for the fuel line rattle, dealer said they havent heard of this issue on the two doors, but we will find out..
View 1 RepliesI was changing the fuel filter and I got it all done, started the car and heard a pop and the car died. the line that goes from the tank to the filter keeps popping off the filter... i can pull it off with my hands.. the other one is fine but the fuel line to the fuel filter isnt grabbing that barb on the filter. its not the filters problem cause it now does it with my old one too...
View 23 RepliesAs some may remember, I had a new engine put into my B6 about 2 weeks ago. Everything had been great since, no rattles, squeaks, or check engine lights, until tonight.
About half an hour after I get home from work, my wife heads out to a meeting. She opens the door to the garage and is about knocked over with the smell of fresh gas. NOT GOOD.
I tell her to get in her car and go, I grab the flashlight and pop the hood on the B6. Low and behold, the middle gas line of the 3 lines on the front right of the engine had come completely off! It was leaking gas everywhere and directly on to the alternator. On closer inspection, I notice that the tech. when he put in the new engine, he NEVER PUT THE 3 HOSE CLAMPS ON THE GAS LINES!
They were still on the hoses, just backed off from the ends a couple of inches. Needless to say I fixed the situation, but the Service Manager will be getting a call in the morning. This could have been a very very bad situation. I didn't smell any gas on the way home. I hate to think what could have happened.
Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine is off?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connecter and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning. I've searched and searched without being able to narrow down a solution.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 mk4 gli and the other morning I went out to start my car for work and all I got was crank no start. I then realized my fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the driver door. After work I came back and checked the fuel pump fuse and swapped the relay with another I had, still nothing. A buddy of mine came to me and decided to check the connector at the fuel pump for power, using a power probe I believe he hit all or the majority of the wires with 12v of negative and/or positive power. He then unplugged the connector and plugged it back in and the car fired right up. But I noticed that my fuel gauge, engine temp gauge, and outside air temp readout were all not functioning.
View 1 RepliesYesterday , my feed fuel line was dry rotting and leaking gas so I bought 516 fuel injection hose and replaced them. Pulled fuse 28 , started the car and let it die to release pressure , fixed the hoses and put the fuse back in and now it just cranks forever. I have spark , and I'm getting fuel just not sure if it's adequate pressure. When I open the door the pump did sound a little funny when it primed. I'm gonna pull it out and check it later but right now I'm completely stumped. I did this last night around 8pm and it's 4:30 am the next morning and still not start.
View 6 RepliesSo I bought two tail lights there good it's just on one of the taillights all the thread to secure them in are broken off. So i have no way of getting it to stay. The trunk is the only thing holding it together. I have a 2004 vw golf.
View 1 RepliesLow ac line is cold
Fans kick on
Compressor clutch kicks on and spins with pulley till I turn ac button off
Added r134
Changed pressure switch
Changed ambient temp sensor
Car is just manual ac control and car blows at 80 degrees.what else could it be?cars 02 gti 1.8t
I am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
Experiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine os off?
View 8 RepliesAfter finally getting some issues sorted this weekend (needed a transmission flush) I was driving around a bit to make sure everything was good. On the way back to my house, the car started overheating. I replaced the thermostat this winter (~4-5 months ago) because it was stuck open making things run a little cool.
I was thinking the water pump is probably shot but not 100% sure. the radiator fans both work and when I turn on the heater, it blows hot. Any good way to check if the water pump is dead? I have a little point and shoot infrared thermometer and one side of the coolant line was way hot and the other was fine (cold ~90 deg F).
I have a leak in my rear wiper fluid line on my GTI. When I use the rear washer, I get a pool of fluid in the driver side taillight and under the rear seats. I'm getting some fluid in the rear driver side headliner as well so the break must be there. First step is to pull the headliner.
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased 2003 gti with a broken timing belt i bought a reman cylinder head did the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. I read the service manual and many forums before setting the timing. I got it all set and back together it runs great at the low end but it feels like when it starts to build boost pressure it stops making power. Would i throw a check engine light if the timing was any off? Would it run well on the low end and then lose power if the timing was off or should i be looking in a diffrent direction? I just want to make sure timing is not an issue.
View 1 Replies