Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Electronics Do Not Turn Off After Engine Has Stopped
May 27, 2015
So Ive been having really annoying electrical issues with my Jetta. Everything works fine when driving, but sometimes when I turn it off after driving for about 20 min, the car electronics will not turn off and the engine will continue to run for about 7 seconds with the key out of the ignition and then sputter to a stop. The electronics do not turn off after the engine has stopped. I ripped apart the interior to look at relays and the ignition switch. They all look fine and they look like they are grounding fine. Do you think it might just be a bad ignition switch?
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All of a sudden, the navigation system in my Prius c is no longer giving me turn-by-turn guidance. It will, when I set a route, give me directions, once, and will then remain silent unless I press the on screen volume button, or use the 'Repeat directions' voice command.
I've looked through all the options screens several times, but don't see anything that seems connected to turning voice guidance on or off.
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The issue I am now experiencing is my passenger headlight would only turn on once in a while . The driver side headlight would work just fine both high beam light also . Today I opened my hood I verified the cable had a poor ground to the headlight I noticed a burnt smell after checking the cables . I turned on my high beams both sides turn on . Then out of no where my turn signals both (Left - right - back and front stopped working. Including the Hazard lights both front and back). The cluster would not show neither turn signals turning on ( left-right ) I noticed that my headlight turn signal on the passenger side would turn on but not blink it would stay dim only when . I pushed the hazard light button . My cluster would show the right turn signal ( no clicking no flashing arrow ). The driver side would not work either. What can I do to fix the problem? I know that I will not be able to drive the car due to the issue.
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Last weekend my headlights, wipers, turn signals, AC, and horn stopped working. Through searching and another post I narrowed the issue down to my ignition switch. After taking apart my steering column and getting the switch out, I found this...
The house which is connected to the switch, with the one of the red wires obvious fried....
So I'm hoping this problem and I'm wondering who else has had this happen. When I took apart the ignition switch itself, nothing appeared to be damaged. No burns no broken pieces, etc. the metal post on the outside corresponding to the fried wire on the housing was corroded, but that was it.
I think I need to replace the housing since all that plastic melted and I chipped it away to get to the connector. I can't seem to get the connectors on the wire off of the metal connectors that are supposed to be in the housing.
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Yesterday my 2003 VW Golf TDI turn signals stopped working. The hazard/emergency lights do work. Also, when I push the signal lever forward the brights don't engage. Does this sound like a bad relay or blown fuse?
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Driving home the other day my right turn signal stopped working. Checked all lights when I got home and the front signal had a constant but low illumination and all the other lights were mostly out as well, very little was working actually.
Pulled the bumper and head lamp tonight. The plastic connector on the low beam was melted and the wires were burnt. The problem was the two brown wires that are sort of routed together. Third wire (grey or another shade of brown depending on headlight manufacturer) was OK.
Headlights are aftermarket, Volx Tuning, < 1 yr old. The rest of the harness inside the assembly looks good- certainly don't see any opportunities for a short.
I replaced the connector and bad section of wire and plugged it back in for a test. All lights were then 100% operational. I removed the assembly to find that the same lamp was smoking again. (I sort of expected this, but had to try.)
Clearly I've got a short somewhere but where do I start? The part of the vehicle's wiring harness that is visible behind the assembly is in good condition. The lamp itself (H7 I believe?) appears OK as well, I don't guess I get so so lucky as to hear those can develop an internal short in the base or something?
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I have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
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The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....
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I have a 2002 VW Golf, with 203,000 miles on it. The check engine light is already on because the cat has worn out. I'm saving to buy a new one. However this morning about 5 minutes into my trip to work my check engine light flashed a few times. After pulling over and turning around to go back home the flashing stopped and the check engine light went back to be solid. Could the worn out cat have caused that? The car seems to run like normal. I did feel a little something when the light started blinking, but then it went away. The dealership and my regular VW mechanic have both said that the car is safe to drive regarding the catalytic converter until this winter when I get my tax return back. I have very little money right now for a repair. I should have more in a couple of months. The only thing that has caused the check engine light to blink in the past was the ignition coil pack. The car is on its third one and I know that feeling, this wasn't it. Plus I just got a new coil pack in June 2014.
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I just posted how happy I have been with my 2004 GTI 1.8t, then something strange happened. I was coming up to a light at night, turned on my turn signal and hit the brakes. The engine stopped abruptly and then began running fine without a restart. It was only for a split second. The lights went out, car died and began to run again very quickly. I noticed later that the clock had changed to the wrong time. I have noticed that lately at night the headlights dim slightly when I brake. That's the only clue. New battery, Alternator checks out fine.
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So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
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1999 Jetta 2.0l Engine Will Not Turn Over. The Battery Is Not That Old. Lights,radio Work. Oddly Enough The Trunk Will Not Open. It Acts As If A Fuse Is Blown And Shut Ignition Down. Windows won't go up or down. and my trunk stays on.
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Car is a 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta GLS 2.0
I went to Discount Tire today to have my tires changed. Afterwards, my car wouldn't start or even turn over. My power windows wouldn't go up or down, the dome light wouldn't come on, the power door locks wouldn't work, and the trunk latch wouldn't work.
My gas door will open using the switch.
What happened was - I walked with the service tech out to my car, handed him my key, and he got in my car. Somehow he activated the alarm and deactivated it right away. He started the car and drove to the service bay. They did the tire change. Went I went to my car, I noticed the trunk was open and the trunk light was on as well as the radio (at low volume). I turned the radio off, tried to start the car, and all the dash lights came on but the car didn't turn over. Thats when I noticed that most of the aforementioned power features wouldn't work. They tried to give me a jump start, but it wouldn't turn over. They needed the service bay so they pushed the car out (with me in it) backwards and I was told to pop it into reverse to roll start it. That worked. I still could not operate any of the power features previously mentioned. When I got home I shut the car off and tried starting it again - no go.
So now I have a dead car with power features that wont work. I have a scanner tool and I'm going to scan for fault codes, but would like some input. The scanner is not a Rosstech.
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I'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
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I have an odd problem. My AC will not activate until the engine gets hot enough that the radiator fans turn on. Once they do, the engine RPMs drop, the clutch kicks in, and I get frosty cold air with no problems. I already replaced my FCM and checked all fuses. It worked consistently all last summer and considering the AC is nice and cold once it kicks in, I don't think this is a pressure issue and it was recharged at the beginning of last summer by a good shop.
I changed my coolant flange a few months ago, same temp sensor. Didn't try AC back then as it was cool outside still. Could this have something to do with it? I have proper readout on my dash. Maybe it's the ambient temp sensor?
2.0 Getta GL AEG 230,000 miles.
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When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
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My car Mk4 Gti has not been starting recently, showing all the symptoms of a dead battery. When I try to start it clicks or sometimes if there's more juice the engine attempts to turn over once or twice.
The weird thing is this started happening in conjunction with my monsoon head unit randomly dying. The radio was dead for a while and my battery would randomly die. Then I fixed the radio by reseating the fuse on the back and the problem went away.
Just today I started my car and everything was fine sitting in my driveway. Then I noticed that the battery light was on, and then my head unit died. I turned my car off to try and fix the radio issue and then it wouldn't start back up. Not sure what the issue is.....
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I have an 03 2.0 jetta manual shifter. Never had issues before this morning. Got in car and sounded like it wanted to turn but wouldnt turn over. After a few attempts the turning sound stopped and I heard an electric pop. Now engine won't even try turning when I turn key it just clicks and engine makes a high pitch noise. Took starter and battery out got both tested and they are fine...
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After running to operating temp, if the car is turned off then restarted (like you would at a gas station, which is where I notice this) the engine will turn and turn and turn but not fire. I have noticed that stomping on the acceleration will cough it into life during this procedure. This doesn't happen every time and I have recently run high octane gas during a long distance trip.
106K miles...
Recent p0441 fault codes and gas cap warning light...
No other problems or codes...
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So, my dad's 2000? B5 V6 Tiptronic won't start reliably. He says that when he turns the key, all the electronics come on, but the engine does not turn over. It sounds to me like the starter motor is dead. Does that sound right?
I looked around Vortex but I couldn't find any DIY for this. Does one exist? Or is it so straight forwards that I should just go for it in the driveway? I changed one in my 96' Jetta 2.0 and one of the bolts went into the motor mount, the engine almost fell on me.
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I know that if you hit the engine button without the brake pedal pressed when you get in the car you can turn on electronics (radio, navigation etc) without turning on the engine. I want to know if it's possible to go from the engine being on directly to electronics on mode without turning the car off and then turning them on.
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