Golf IV / Jetta IV :: ESP Light On After Driving 10 Miles - AC Stopped Blowing Cold Air
Jul 19, 2015
So my alternator went bad last week so I replaced it. Tested it yesterday and it was charging fine and drove it to work. I got the esp light on after driving 10 miles everytime I start it. So I go start it and it turns over slow but starts. Before I got to a friends house I was getting on it from a stop pretty hard and noticed the ac stopped blowing cold air. I go to leave a few hours later and it barely turns over and died shortly after moving. Took a while to jump it and the battery light blinked the whole way home. THEN, I go inside and hear something about 5 minutes later and my stereo is on! Also ABS light is on. Could a dead battery do all this?
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No AC... Its not the fuse box on top of the battery, I recently already changed that. The air coming out is not cold at all, so I checked the pressure, and it was even higher then it was supposed to. After letting some pressure out, still no cold air. What could the issue be? Should I maybe bleed the system?
Also, its a 2001 GLX so I have climatronic....
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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This is on a 06 GTI. Yesterday my AC just stopped blowing cold. I checked the fuses did not find any that were bad. Belts are new, compressor is spinning, not sure if the clutch is engaging, can't hear anything clicking etc. Upon further investigation it is doing some weird stuff. Fan speed works fine, blows air but no cold air however if I try and get hot air (the heater) there is no change in air temp. If I turn the "ECON" button on and off no change. If I turn on the front defrost then I get Hot air but that is the only way I can get any temp change hot or cold, nothing will make it blow cold just to clarify. Last odd thing is if I crank the heat up to max I get no airflow from anywhere!? What is going on?
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This morning my AC was working just fine, air blew cold and nothing seemed wrong. But then tonight when I went out it was cold outside so I decided to turn the heat on.. That's when a problem happened. Tried turning the AC on but no air came out the vents at all. Tried all the air settings, nothing at all, even when it's on "4". The only thing that seems to work is the re-cycilation button, it lights up and I can hear it working. So to sum it up, no air coming out the vents and the AC light won't turn on when I push it in.
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Well my a/c stopped blowing cold last week so I took it to an a/c shop and they said it was really low on freon. The guy recharged it and we noticed the driver side fan wasn't turning on. Said that it was causing to much pressure and it was blessing it off causing the loss of freon. So I came home and put it on the lift to check out the fans. I unplugged the fans from the bottom side below the fcm and the pass side fan comes on with a 12v source but when I put power to the other plug (drivers side fan) there's nothing across the high or low side. Guessing the fan is toast right? Just making sure before I order a new fan. What's all involved in replacing the fan? Also I've read the vw fans have a resistor that are known for burning out. Should I go with oem or a different brand from ecs?
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My battery died yesterday and after I got my car jump started the check transaxle light (exclamation point) came on and my A/C stopped blowing cold air. I checked all of the fuses and they are all fine. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2000 Jetta that doesn't blow cold AC. Here are the details:
- When the AC is turned on, air does blow through the vents. Each setting (1-4) does blow harder than the previous.
- Both front fans spin and are working
- The AC compressor clutch never engages
- All fuses (two inside the car and the one above the battery) have been replaced and test good.
- When the AC is on full blast, the voltage coming from the AC compressor wire shows ~9.3V for about 5 seconds, then jumps up to about ~11V for less than a second, this repeats over and over and the clutch never engages.
What the next logical troubleshooting step would be? I've read about this possibly being the fan control module (maybe) and also read about testing the AC compressor using an external 12V power supply, but am not sure where to go from here.
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I have a mk4 gli and the a/c is not blowing cold, or remotely cool. When I turn on the a/c the engine drops rpm's like it is engaging, or whatever, but doesn't get cold. I checked under the hook and it sounds like something is trying to come on every 10 seconds or so...it's like the engine jumps or something. The fan on the passenger side is coming on if that means anything but the driver side doesn't when a/c is turned on.
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'01 Jetta IV GLS AC not blowing cold air:
1. Blower works on all 1,2,3,4 settings
2. Cabin Air Filter Clean
3. When AC button pressed, I see the Compressor turns and noted the clutch also engaged.
4. AC Fan near Radiator comes on
5. Blend Door seems to be working fine - fixed the problem of spitting foam without opening up the heater box.
6. Since the above electrical parts seem to be working, I suppose it could not be a relay issue.
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having the issue where there aircon refuses to work even if the system is gassed up and leak free, and the compressor seems to be functional but not powering up. Before spending loads of cash on controller units, swtiches etc, your problem might be a dodgy connector under the battery tray.
As I have bought another Golf that appeared to have this issue, I took some photos this evening while I fixed it, hopefully this will be of use to people?
To start with, I had a look at my old Golf, which I knew had already been repaired. under the battery tray I found the repair. I put new tape on as the old tape was showing its age, so it shows up quite nicely - it's the blue tape!:
and a bit of a close up:
So now I knew what I was looking for, I had a look at my new Golf:
Which, I cut out, soldered the ends together, heat-shrink wrapped, then covered with some more trusty blue tape and zip tied it all up to try to minimise further chafing (the blue tape on the left is another part of the loom that looked like it needed a bit of tidying up):
A drive around this evening shows the aircon is now blowing a lot colder than before (previously it was blowing hot air after 5 minutes). I'll be testing it properly on a hot day, but I'm 90% certain I've nailed it.
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I am trying to narrow down what could be the issue to my 2002 vw Jetta VR6 air conditioning. It is blowing air but the air is not cold. If I need to add refrigerant, where I can find the low pressure valve so I can do this on my own with one of those store bought cans.
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2004 GTI VR6 24V Manual trans. My son's GTI has an intermittent problem that I think will be hard to pinpoint because it is intermittent. I will hopefully have more info this afternoon. Three time now after driving about 20 miles the car will cut off. Usually while slowing down to a stop or to make a turn. So far it has run great at highway speeds.
It has some random symptoms. I drove it to work and it happened to me. The first time I had slowed to about 20 to make a turn and it cut off. I made the turn and let out the clutch and it bump started and I made it to my work parking lot. While turning into the lot it cut off again so I coasted into a parking spot. This part has me puzzled it would not crank the starter. I moved the gear selector to every gear and nothing. I put it in reverse and the starter would crank but would not start.
Came back about an hour later and it started fine and acted like nothing wrong. Drove it home and again about 20 miles and it cut off again. This time it would crank in all gears but would not start. This time the EPC light came on. Left the car and came back later that night and it started fine, EPC light off and drove the last two mile home no problem. I am borrowing a friend from work computer with the VAGCOM software and hopefully will have more info.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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My ac stopped blowing cold. The compressor turns on when I turn the ac on. When I pressure tested the low line port, it showed it was too high to add any recharge. 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t....
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The AC on my car (2002 Jetta 1.8t) quit blowing cold. Did some troubleshooting and...
1. Checked Freon- level was ok
2. Noticed cooling fans were not coming on with AC button pressed and ignition on. Fans also not coming on when car up to temperature, but gauge never went above normal. Seems strange considering I live in Houston and it was 95+ out.
3. tested fans with direct power and both high and low are fine.
4. jumped terminals 1,2 and 2,3 on plug for cooling fan switch and fans turn on high and low...so thought must be bad cooling fan switch.
5. Replaced cooling fan switch and still no fans or ac when AC button is pressed and ignition on.
6. replaced Fan control module. Still no fans.
7. Checked Freon once more...and although it was in the ok range decided to add a little more. (was in the middle of ok range, and a cheap gauge)
8. Compressor kicks on, along with cooling fan. End up using the 1 can I had and now have cold air and fans that come on when hitting the AC button with ignition set to on position.
I thought the mkiv cars would always turn on the fans when AC button is pressed with ignition on? Or does the compressor also need to be charged?
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I have a question about my Golf MK4 1998 - 1.6
I was out driving to work today, and when i cam to a roundabout, the engine stopped. The battery light was lighting as if the ignition only was on, and the steering wheel was extremely hard to use. The gal pedal didn't even work either. After a few(2-3-4) seconds, the car automatic started again, and i could gas and steer normally.
What could this be due to? I know i have some problems with the starter on the car(when i start it sometimes it gives me this loud elephant noise), but it should not have anything to do with it..
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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Truck has heat when driving but when stopped blows cold air. Replaced thermostat. still blows cold when stopped.
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My 06 Mitsubishi Galant's A/C quits blowing air after approximately 50 miles of driving. The fan is running normally but the ducts don't have much air coming from them. I let the car set for a period of time and it starts working again. It acts like the coils are freezing up. I had a mechanic check it, the freon is ok, there is no cabin filter and they replaced a relay hoping to fix it. So far, no luck.
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Issue I have with my 2012 Prius I bought about 9 months ago. The air stopped blowing completely. No hot air blowing, no cold air blowing. It is starting to get warm out now and need some AC. Is it the blower motor under the glove box that has gone out? Seems odd.
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