I have been having the dredded EPC light coming on and according to the vag scan its the throotle body. What I need to know is if one off a 2003 2.0 jetta will work on my 2004 2.0 jetta. The number on the side of mine 06A 133 062s is not the same number on the 03. I was told that they must match to work properly.
View 2 RepliesI decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
View 13 RepliesI have a customer that has a 2.0 mk4 with 260000 miles on it..about 20k miles ago we had 6 codes saying throttle body was not working and car was surging, so we ordered a vdo tb, installed it reset tb and it ran fine for 7 months and 20k miles. Again car is surging, so i tried a tb reset. tb was under guarantee so we took advantage and replaced it/reset it and it threw a code within 5 min of driving and hesitating/surging. He is original owner? possible ecu getting sleepy?
View 22 RepliesSo the other day I went to the mechanic for him to see what code(s) were causing my CEL. He simply told me that there was an issue with the throttle body and it didn't know what position to be in; he cleared the codes, clean the throttle body and said if the light came on again I needed a new tb. The CEL came back on, but his diagnosis doesn't make sense to me.
From what I've researched if the throttle body had this issue the car would run like crap; however, it runs fine. Smooth idle, good throttle response, accelerates smoothly through the rev range, and I'm still getting decent fuel economy. Given that, it doesn't seem like it's the TPS either, and the tb was just cleaned so I'm confused. Could it actually be the throttle body, or is there some sensor that has just gone bad? The car is a 2000 Golf with an AEG engine & 5-speed box.
And here are a couple pic for clicks of a stock-ish car.....
So starting with the specs: I have a Stage III+ Golf R with about 39k Miles on it. Stage III+ was added at 17k miles and has treated me pretty good. The car is driven about 3 days a week and has the oil change interval of 3k miles.
Things that I've checked or done recently:
- Cam Follower: Wasn't too bad but seemed like the outer coating was wearing off on it so I replaced it.
- Oil change: Changed the oil about 1 week ago but hadn't driven it since then until yesterday were we did about a 50 mile road trip. (No unusual things noticed)
When we came back home and parked in the garage, I noticed the sound when I turned the ignition off. It was pretty noticeable as you will see in the video. Could I possibly have a bad throttle body on my hands?
[URL] ....
I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
View 5 RepliesI have got a 5 door 2002 Golf 1.6l petrol, manual transmission with 190k kilometers on the clock. It has been playing up recently and the authorized VW garage is clueless, but still happy to charge for a miserable job...
The "symptoms" are always the same: I can start the car no problem. Plenty of water coming out of the exhaust and EPC light comes on, no power transmission (or very little). In this state, the engine runs irregular. Before all this happens, you can tell there will be a problem (this is not super obvious), as the car does not run smoothly in neutral, especially when it is at a a hill You might get away with another 50k but that's it.
Breakdown 1: Called out road side assistance and got it towed. Volkswagen dealer retrieved the error code P1564 and they replaced the throttle and some of the contacts of the throttle. (Costs 800 GBP)
Breakdown 2: However, 300 km later, same problem as before road side assistance retrieved error code P0638. The memory was reset and it did run perfectly fine for a short while (2000 km).
Breakdown 3: As before, error message P1564 was read. This time they thought there was a problem with the coil in cylinder 2 and replaced it (250 GBP) - also the one in cylinder 1 as "old". Picked up the car and it was not running smoothly in neutral and it eventually broke down after only 90 km.
What to get changed next? What is the real root of the problem here?
My 2005 elantra hvt 2.0 has oil leaking into the air filter coming through or near the throttle body, I've been told its an egr valve.
If it is...where is it and how much for a new one and is it an easy fix? If not what could be causing the leak?
So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
Obviously its not a good thing, but this seems a little severe for a truck that hasnt had any issues prior. The truck is a 1998 F150 4.6 and was running just fine until POP!! A puff of grey smoke coming from the throttle body and followed by (obviously) a rough idle. So basically, I know that any metal fragments were directly sucked into the intake and based on the size of the chipped area (roughly 1.5cm). I am wondering what type of internal damage this would (or already has) caused.
View 3 RepliesStarted my car this morning to warm it up, idled for ~ 20min. weather conditions. I returned to my car, and it was misfiring and threw the p1545 throttle body code. There was a mk5 tsb for a similar problem involving wiring. 49k miles, stock tune, w CTS catted dp.
View 8 RepliesThe inter cooler to throttle body hose and it seems to have coolant all over it.
View 12 RepliesSo i have been hearing a whistle under acceleration for some time. Normally comes at 1/2 to full throttle. I also have had check engine light for a bad o2 sensor for about the same amount of time(2months). Fast forward to last week. finally replaced sensor. Check engine is gone. Open her up a little on and on ramp, Whistle is still there and the CEL comes back. Have it scanned, and it come back load calculation cross check 17551. I need an sticker so i rest the ecu (no light) and drove it like a grandma 50miles to get the sticker. No CEL. Get sticker. Just to make sure i wasn't crazy i gave her some gas on the way out of the inspection lot, and there is the CEL.
In conclusion, Between the whistle, CEL, and the fact that i drove it 50 miles with out the CEL coming back under very light throttle, and i just replaced the MAF with a new Bosch 2 months ago, i am pretty sure it is some kind of vac leak.
I have a new TB gasket in the mail, but my question is, Is there other places where such a vac leak is common in these cars? Other info on car.
UM tune
evoms intake
HPA downpipes (whistle started after these where installed)
Flapper
no res
74k on the clock
Mk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 1.8t Jetta with 97000 mile that seems to run fine. Every once in a while when I hammer the throttle a huge cloud of light bluish smoke comes from the back of the car and seems to lose its power until it hits second gear and then all is fine. It doesn't happen all the time but freaks me out when it does. I don't get any warnings on the dash. I just bought this car 3 weeks ago and of course this didn't happen when I drove it.
View 8 RepliesI brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
View 8 Replies1999 Jetta 2.0L manual trans
One day out of the blue the car would not crank or start. Checked and found that fuse #14 was blown and would blow the instant another fuse was inserted. Checked all the typical locations for wiring issues usually associated with the comfort module because it had all the symptoms of a faulty module (the power windows did not work and the fuel pump didn't pressurize the system when the driver door was opened, the alarm didn't set, automatic door locks also inoperable).
I checked the dome light, trunk hinges, rubber boot between doors and body and found nothing. Put a jumper wire into the neutral start relay and was able to crank the car. I then replaced clutch safety switch, neutral start relay and installed new (junkyard) comfort module and the car cranked up, started and everything was working normally again...for about 3 weeks. Then it did the exact same thing again. Fuse #14 was blown again and would blow the new fuse as soon as it touched the terminals in the fuse box.
I reinstalled the jumper wire in the start relay in order to be able to drive the car for the last week, and then last night out of the blue the car would crank, but not start. I turned the engine over several times and could hear the fuel pump pumping and even smell fuel, but no start. 3-5 minutes later after random tries to start, the car stumbles to life as if it wasn't getting fuel, and then drove 10 miles home with no issues. I returned the 'faulty' comfort module Monday and got another one but haven't installed it yet because I fear the same thing happening with this one as the other one.
Last night after I got the car home, I plugged in the comfort module and everything worked like it was supposed to. Can a faulty fuel pump damage the control module? I'm trying to get to the bottom of this and fix the problem and not the symptoms so I'm looking into anything that could potentially cause the problem.
Every time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
I have this rattling noise. i have gotten under the car, and resecured the heat shield its starting to rust around the mounting points but that's not the issue, on the driver side near one of the large rubber plugs i hit around it with a hammer and there is something inside of it that is rattling starts around 1900rpm and stops around 2500 rpm how do I get in there to get the damn thing out? Its not the cat nor the exhaust etc.
View 3 RepliesI got an 02 gti automatic. My low coolant light has been coming on often lately. I checked my coolant level and it was real low. I added coolant and the light didn't come back on. After a few weeks the light came back on. Again I had to add a lot of coolant..I have no leaks though. Where could all this coolant I add be going? I am not over heating or anything. Its like my car is literally drinking this and peeing it out, I have to add some almost every week now for the light to stay off.
View 24 Replies