Golf IV / Jetta IV :: EPC Light Came On, Idle Went Up To 1200 Rpm's
May 26, 2016
After about a 45 minute drive yesterday the EPC light came on, idle went up to 1200 rpm's and when I turned off the car it wouldn't turn on, just leaving the ignition for about 5-7 seconds is when the car finally started.
Today, again after a 45 minute drive the EPC light came on again, same symptoms, except that the car stalled and I had to turn the ignition again about 5-7 seconds for it to start. No other light is on, and the car would start fine after about half an hour rest with no EPC light.
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Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
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I have a 1.8t jetta that has a weird idle issue when starting and engine is cold it like to idle at 1200 rpm then will eventually work its way down to 800 rpm
I have no cel codes and have looked for vacuum leaks (but may have missed one) ,but if i start the car and it idles at 1200 rpm then i shut it down and start it right after it will idle at 800 rpm as normal.
Its a 1.8t unitronic stage 1 stock everything except e type coils with plugs at .032, Also does not have much pull after 4000 rpm, not to worried but just may be part of the issue....
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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Vehicle: 2006 Mk IV Golf 2.0 GLS With 82766 mi
Back story: I purchased the vehicle from my dad who did regular maintenance except that somehow spark plugs and wires slipped through the cracks until now. A few months ago (while I was in training) it apparently started showing CEL but the few times it came on, my wife said it just disappeared. Two weeks ago, it came on again and I had the code read which came back as P0420. I took it in and they replaced the rear cat after which it ran well for a few days. Then the CEL came on again but went off before I could get out in the shop. This weekend I went ahead and changed the oil and may have over filled it slightly. The next day I went to change the spark plugs and after changing 4, 1, 3 it started to miss fire in 4 and 1. I reset both spark plugs and got 4 firing again, but 1 remained bad. With a friend I determined there was a weak spark in 1 and changed the wire but no change.
Current situation: As it stands now, it's still miss firing. The worst seems to be between 1200- 1800 rpm and if I keep it above there the light will stop flashing and even turn off on some cases. I've read that heart mixed with moisture(I just moved from AZ to WA) can lead to a cracked coil pack or that the injectors can go bad. Should I just take it to vw specialist?
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I have a 2003 golf 1.8t and the car shakes when launching from a stop. it shakes as long as the rpm is below about 1200. i have an o2 b1 s1 error. also the car is not performing well and seems like it doesn't have enough boost although the boost is reaching its max amount. the car is mapped at 1.3 bar. so does the o2 sensor cause such issues or is it something else ??
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So recently my water pump failed so i did the pump, timing belt, and thermostat. While putting the alternator back in a may have broken a few fins on the alt. case. Anyways I was ripping it a bit today only a day after stuff done and the battery light came on. The car is warmed up and the idle drop a few hundred rpm and then back up. The headlights dim as well. and come back up with rpm. Even when I hod the pedal steady at 2k rpm itll still dip and come back up...thinking its an alt but is that really a symptom of a bad alt? I was also thinking I didn't tighten the alt bolt down alt the way or fuses or something so checking that but I am almost positive it's all tight down.
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2002 GTI 1.8t (No Tune) 95k
Car becomes harder to start before the problem starts occurring. When the car is started, the idle will rise above what it normally does (750rpm) to 1200-1300rpms and drop back down and raise back up again. Its like its constantly revving itself, this continues the whole time the gas is not being applied. With this comes the EPC light, the Traction Control light and a hardness to the brake pedal (as if the brake booster hose is disconnected or its not getting its vacuum assist, very hard to brake when rpms are at idle). Sometimes im able to boost but most of the time, i am not able to exceed 2lbs of boost. Limp Mode? This has happened before about 5k ago.
I sacked up and got it diagnosed and it turned out to be the Throttle Body, Crankshaft position sensor and the brake booster hose. All at the same time, which is weird. But all those items were replaced by me and the car ran fantastic. until now. This will be the 3rd throttle body put in since the car came off the line. it seems like thats the problem since the brake booster hose is fed vacuum to the throttle body? But i would love second or third opinion before money is spent. If it is the throttle body, what could make this unit go out so systematically and slowly? If it was wiring then you would thing itd kill the part quicker than 5-10k miles. I will post the CEL codes when i can get one to come on.
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New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
[URL] .....
It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.
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I purchased a 2001 Jetta and it ran alright for a few days then all these problems started arising. The engine would not idle correctly and then a week later my EPC light started coming on. After all of that I have replaced the Throttle body ( Bosch) the MAF ( after market) and gas pedal ( after market). It ran fine for a day and then same issues. I had a mechanic relearn the throttle which had the Engine light go away for about a day. Now all the issues have came back. Here are the main problems.
1. Randomly lose throttle ( up hill, down hill, highway does not matter)
2. I randomly get stuck in park and cannot shift at all.
This is extremely troublesome since every time I lose throttle i have to put the car in park, shut her off and turn her back on to be able to drive. I keep getting the Throttle and MAF codes. I also checked on the recalled parts and they have already been replaced. I have read many reasons as to what would cause this but even the mechanic doesn't even know and I cant pay for him to check the electric. Also when driving if it is raining my car will not start or when it does it chugs. I was running through a puddle and after the water splashed the car basically would no longer run.
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On my way to work, my check engine light started blinking and car was sputtering (real bad on idle). I ran the code and it came back with misfires codes. I changed the coils/plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump last year. Can the coils be bad already? When I clear the codes the car will run fine for a little while. But after a couple miles CEL will blink and the car will run roughly again.
Car : 2004 Golf 2.0
Codes:
16684: random multiple misfires
16648: fuel injector #2 short to ground
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So here's my problem; my 05 Excursion has a v10 and now it does not idle correctly. At a stop sign and in gear it idles anywhere between 900 to 1200 rpms. Normally it should be idling around 750. I just noticed this as I had to apply more brake pressure to keep from driving through an intersection. Since this has happened I have changed the air filter and fuel filter. Do you think I need a computer reset, or something else?
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My Auto 2.4 850 SE (38600miles) does this lately:
- idles at about 1200 rpm, and takes long to settle to its 850 position, even when warm;
- when I engage Drive, idle drops to very low, car vibrates as if engine wants to switch off, then rises again as I give gas and pull away.
Why this is the case, and what I could do to remedy this? (About 2 months ago, idling was going really nuts! I removed the flame trap and fresh air hose: it was full of oily gunk and I gave all components a good clean up with carb cleaner and then replaced them, and then idling all fine after that).
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I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
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Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
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I just picked up an 02 Hyundai elantra manual trans that needed a transmission. ran fine before I replaced transmission but after putting it all back together the car now how has an erratic idle. it will rev from 2-4000 rpms. I tried spraying for vacuum leaks idle didn't pick up any higher. replaced tps and iac and didn't make a difference. the only thing that did make any difference is unplugging map sensor. dropped idle to about 1200 rpm but ran rough. could this affect the idle.
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Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
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Engine is a late 60's 390 with a C6 auto in good shape with a purported rebuild of about 10-15K miles on it. I picked up a nice condition Autolite 4100 and rebuilt it. Original tag states "C5AF AV" and below that in smaller font: "A 5AC" The base is stamped 1.12. It has the auto choke and auto tranny kickdown.
Truck has been sitting for 4 years so I drained the gas, primed the oil and added 5 fresh gallons. Started up on the second try!! But it won't idle and wants to die unless I feather the gas until it warms up. Also has a bog when accelerating up past 1200 RPM. I've been checking for vacuum leaks but none so far found.
I have a number of questions. But one of the areas I believe I need to correctly adjust is the float level, and here is where I can't get a clear answer or clear explanation of the correct procedures. What is the correct float level? My Sorensen rebuild kit actually had multiple values and the one that looked best had different primary and secondary values. I tried setting it "dry" by the upside down check with the cardboard supplied gauge. Good news is that it is not overflowing so needles and floats seem to be working correctly.
However, how do you do a more accurate wet setting? Appears to be two methods - one is the float setting and the other is the fuel depth. One good thread seems to state that both wet floats should be at 11/16". An engine builder locally said they should both be about level/parallel. Autozone says the primary should be 20/32" and the secondary should be 1 1/16". My rear wet float is almost level and it measures about 15/32". NONE of the data I've been able to find agree on the right setting nor do they explain in detail the correct way to measure using the wet float method.
I've got more questions like the choke settings and the vacuum port for hot air intake (currently open) and only getting 14 inches vacuum (I believe it should be 18 inches) etc., but I'd like to get the floats right before tackling them.
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I noticed a slightly higher RPM at idle (1100-1200) with outside temps in the mid 50's after a 15 mile trip. I dont recall what it usually is, it just seemed to revving higher. What would say normal RPM's are on a warm engine.
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I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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