Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Driver Side Rear Door Just Came Open
Aug 8, 2014
I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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When I open the driver's door, the car does not register that the door is open: the dome light and other interior lights don't come on, the red alert light inside the door itself doesn't come on, and sometimes my alarm will go off when I start the car because it does not know that the door has been activated properly. When the passenger door is open, all the lights function properly. I'm thinking this is a fuse? Hopefully a simple fix?
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At some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
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Learning how to operate my newly acquired 2004 V8 Phaeton...not too mention convincing me to purchase one. I think I even like its occassional quirkiness, such as TPMS faults - its like it has a personality.
Anyway, I have not found an answer to a problem which started yesterday:
- Rear driver-side door won't operate using outside handle
- Confirmed its unlocked, can open from inside & child locks (not that those should affect it) are off
- No problem opening passenger side rear door
- I think I hear a mechanism in the door moving when I pull the outside handle on the working side, don't hear it on the non-working door
I believe there is a cable which is attached to the door handle which may have come loose. I do have a VW Real Driver Warranty (10 Years)...and although door handles are specifically excluded, I don't think this is likely a "door handle" problem, but rather something inside the door which has broken.
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I Have a 2000 vw jetta 2.0 that will not start with drivers side door open, no problems with other doors. I checked and cleaned the ground wires.
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Driver side rear door will not open by key, key fob or internal handle, 2007 model. Also is there an Haynes manual for this model....
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So far I have not been able to get the rear door open on the driver side. I was able to remove the plastic panel so I could see inside. The cable is attached to the handle, but not the latch mechanism at the bottom of the door. I have searched this and other sites and looked for pics on the internet...no luck yet.
Looking for an image of the latch mechanism for the driver barn door ... something that will hopefully show where the cable attaches and/or how I can manually (no cable attached) open the door.
Also, I am having issues with the door ajar light. I am almost certain that this is from the rear of the truck. Is the sensor for door ajar on the hatch, driver barn door, passenger barn door, more than one?
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If I unlock the car with the fob - two clicks - all doors unlock. However the rear drivers side passenger door always needs two pulls on the handle to open it. Both passenger side doors open from the outside on first pull, as does the drivers door, but the back door on the passenger side needs two pulls.
As far as I can tell all doors behave the same inside - one pull to open, unless the car is centrally locked, in which case two pulls.
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The drivers side rear door on our 2004 T'reg is stuck shut. Neither the interior or exterior door handle will open the door. I tried locking/unlocking it a few times, both with the remote and with the interior button. Is this a simple fix, or is it off to the dealership with me?
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My driver door got stuck, couldn't open from the outside but could open from inside. I went and read a few forums and they told me to adjust the plastic lug that has a wire connected to it that is attached to the module. It might be tight so I had to loosen it a bit, In the process it fell inside the door and not only did it not fix the problem but I cant seem to find any other way to get inside to find it.
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I drive a 2013 Elantra Limited. I cannot open the Driver side rear door from inside. I am hoping its a quick thing to enable this?
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I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 as my winter vehicle. The car only has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove it, and it seems to run great! The only issue (visibly) with the car is that the rear drivers side door is stuck. There is a dent below the door handle, and the door will not open from the inside of the car, or from the outside. The dent does not look major, and it seems to me that if I can get the door open, I could repair the latch/locking mechanism.
I don't want to buy the car if the only way to repair the door is to spend a ton of money at a body shop. Below are the pictures of the outside of the door. Hopefully the image links work.
I think it is the locking mechanism that is broken. The dent isn't causing the door to be stuck. The power door locks work, and I can manually lock/unlock the rear door. However, even when unlocked, the door will not open from inside or outside the vehicle. It's as though the door is "stuck" because the lock doesn't disengage.
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After sorting out a bunch of other things and basically rebuilding my engine, I'm down to 1 pesky problem. My engine won't run if the driver door is open...
With the door closed and engine on, its great. AFRs are high 13s to mid 14s, 19-ish vac, smooth and steady idle. But when I open the driver door the engine cuts off. I can pull the lever and hold the door close, its fine. When I release the door and it gets past a certain point, the engine stops.
I get a bunch of short to ground codes BUT only after scanning after the engine cuts off via the door. If I clear them and scan it before said occurrence, I only get an engine speed sensor code.
I can roll the windows up and down, door locks, mirrors, passenger door, sun roof, open the hatch, hood and gas door with killing the engine. Its ONLY when I open the driver door...
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I purchased this vehicle brand new this is the first real issue besides the poor paint quality. Ilove my Santa Fe! how can I fix this??
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99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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I heard this noise on my mkIV GTI as well. When I unlock and open the car in the AM I hear a strange "whirring" sound. It sounds like a cell phone vibrating on a hard surface. I don't think anything is broken since it has done this on two different cars. I just want to know what it is. The sound happens as soon as I open the driver-side door.
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Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
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My trunk doesn't seem to open electrically any more - that is, the button on the driver's side nor the button on the key fob will open the trunk. All I hear when I attempt either of these methods is a click near the fuse box. I do not hear the actuator at all. It worked intermittently for a few months, but now it seems to be completely dead. My google searches led me down two paths - either the actuator itself is broken or the wiring going from the latch to the actuator is messed up.
I removed the actuator from the trunk and tested it using a different power supply. It seems to work fine when I apply 12v through the leads. I also connected my multimeter to the connector that plugs into the actuator (the connector is hooked up to the wires coming from the front of the car). When I push the trunk button on my key, it spikes to 11v, then drops back to 0. To me, this indicates that there is no flaw in the wiring.
I even re-soldered the wires where it tends to kink on the drivers side in the trunk (It looks like they have been previously DIYed so I thought something may have come loose there), but that doesn't seem to have worked. As far as I can tell, the wires seem to be working fine by testing through the multimeter, and the actuator seems to be fine by testing from an alternate supply.
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My key when I press the button will lock all of the doors except the drivers door, I can still lock the drivers door, but only if i put my key in the lock and do it manually. I know on my brothers 02 golf gls it would lock all of the doors with the button on the key.
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So last night, I went to close my car door and it just "Bounced" when I went to shut it. It did this a few times and then I got it closed. So I left it until this morning and now it won't close at all and just bounces. I believe the latch is broken. Any quick fixes to this?
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