Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Driver Door Will Remain Unlocked When Using Key Fob
Feb 12, 2016
Having some seemingly intermittent issues with my driver's door locking. I will use the key fob to lock the door, and the driver's door will remain unlocked. I have noticed this a few times, but haven't done many trial and error tests. I believe it does lock most of the time, but I forget to look since I'm at a distance when locking or unlocking typically.
I've read up on the solder joint cracking issue, and that's what I believe it may be. Are there any other thing to check on if that does not turn out to be the case?
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As the title states, my alarm horn chirps when opening the unlocked passenger door in my '03 Golf. Asked the master tech about it and we sat there scratching our heads for a while. Nothing he's ever seen or heard before. What set of conditions would create this?
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2008 Camry: The remote will lock all doors but the driver's side;BUT; the remote will unlock all 4 doors.
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Have started seeing an issue on my 2012 about few months already and the dealer could not even diagnose it because it is intermittent.
Sometimes when I arm the alarm, I can hear the actuators/solenoids cycle, but there is no single beep and the driver's door invariably remains unlocked. Repeated press of the arm button on the fob would not change, i.e. vehicle remains unarmed and driver's door remains unlocked. All the other doors are unaffected.
I can cycle through by pressing unlock once or twice, then the next relocking press would work. This is worrisome if I didn't pay attention to the beep and thought the vehicle is locked while in fact it was not, this could also happen when the vehicle is at the dealership as the porter would think pressing the button would have locked the vehicle.
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I have been noticing this problem more frequently. It's been about 2 months that I noticed the car is doing this.
I would typically touch the door handle to lock the car, (hear the beep) and sometimes I use the remote at a distance to make sure I did not forget to lock it. But after I return to the car, I usually go to the trunk, to put away my briefcase, (without pressing any button). After closing the trunk, and going to the driver side passenger door(its unlocked) (no beeping sound or anything)
I have made sure several times (clicking the button several times) that I indeed locked the car. but it's unlocked. I have tested the auto lock feature on my car (locking, then unlocking without opening doors, yes it automatically locks the doors after 60 seconds).
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My brake fluid is fine and fuses 5 & 9 are good. Brake lever is all the way down as well. Have read that for some simply replacing the cap worked. Car is a 2000 w/170K. BTW, A/C does not work, clutch not spinning, fuses ok there as well. I've made sure a/c button is not on nor is recirc button. Some have said probe can be related to this but that also can show up with a bad fuse # 5, but mine is good.
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When I hit unlock on the key fob it unlocks the driver door. If I hit it twice, I still only unlocks the driver door. It won't unlock the other three doors. If I manually unlock the doors with their handles and then hit lock on the fob it locks them all.
When I got the car it worked fine. Two clicks of unlock on the fob unlocked all doors. Recently, I did replace the key fob battery.
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I have a MK4 Jetta, I've owned it for about 1 year. I've never had a problem with the key, but in the last few days, it only opens the driver door? No matter how many times I hit the button it won't unlock the rest of the doors?
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My driver door got stuck, couldn't open from the outside but could open from inside. I went and read a few forums and they told me to adjust the plastic lug that has a wire connected to it that is attached to the module. It might be tight so I had to loosen it a bit, In the process it fell inside the door and not only did it not fix the problem but I cant seem to find any other way to get inside to find it.
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After sorting out a bunch of other things and basically rebuilding my engine, I'm down to 1 pesky problem. My engine won't run if the driver door is open...
With the door closed and engine on, its great. AFRs are high 13s to mid 14s, 19-ish vac, smooth and steady idle. But when I open the driver door the engine cuts off. I can pull the lever and hold the door close, its fine. When I release the door and it gets past a certain point, the engine stops.
I get a bunch of short to ground codes BUT only after scanning after the engine cuts off via the door. If I clear them and scan it before said occurrence, I only get an engine speed sensor code.
I can roll the windows up and down, door locks, mirrors, passenger door, sun roof, open the hatch, hood and gas door with killing the engine. Its ONLY when I open the driver door...
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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So yesterday, I posted this thread [URL] ... and I reprogrammed my keyfob successfully. The keyless entry works now, but I my driver door does not lock. I can't even lock it with the key. The only time it locks, is if I'm riving and it auto-locks, but right after I get out, can't get it to lock again. The red light on the door is flashing, my keyfob works, every other door locks. What I can do? It's a 2004 Jetta Wagon.
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When I open the driver's door, the car does not register that the door is open: the dome light and other interior lights don't come on, the red alert light inside the door itself doesn't come on, and sometimes my alarm will go off when I start the car because it does not know that the door has been activated properly. When the passenger door is open, all the lights function properly. I'm thinking this is a fuse? Hopefully a simple fix?
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My key when I press the button will lock all of the doors except the drivers door, I can still lock the drivers door, but only if i put my key in the lock and do it manually. I know on my brothers 02 golf gls it would lock all of the doors with the button on the key.
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So last night, I went to close my car door and it just "Bounced" when I went to shut it. It did this a few times and then I got it closed. So I left it until this morning and now it won't close at all and just bounces. I believe the latch is broken. Any quick fixes to this?
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Like the title says, the door lock cylinder does not work on my driver's side door. I removed it and the doors lock unlock with a screw driver so it's only the lock cylinder that is bad. Is there a way to "rebuild" it or fix it without having to get a new one? All 3 of my keys don't work for the trunk or drivers door.
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So I have an 03 wolfsburg, when my car is on and I open either the front driver or front passenger door the lights on the interior don't come on. Is this normal? I could have sworn they did before and on my 01 1.8t GLS, but if I open the any of the rear doors the lights come on...
I just got an LED interior kit, but haven't got it in the mail yet, so it is still on the stock bulbs from the factory, is it a dual filament bulb that just needs replacing?
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When opening driver side door, engine dies.Cannot access the convenience control module with VAGcom.
Swapped in another CCM, same behavior. Have not tried yet to access the swap module with VAGcom.
What might cause the 'engine kill' when door is opened? How to further troubleshoot?
Quick fix: disable 'door contact' (not sure, but assume it is integrated into the door lock/actuator (as a microswitch likely?).
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At some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
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I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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I have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
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