Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Driver Door Controls Not Working - Loud Knocking Noise In Right Rear
Nov 20, 2015
I have never seen a car with more electrical problems in my entire life. Everything is wrong with this thing. Driver door controls don't work. The only way to get the driver door to roll down is if i take the positive of my battery and put it back on, boom window rolls up and down for 10 mins and than stops working. It literally seems like if i take the positive off my battery it solves all my issues and everything works. The car wont even start in 15 degree weather. I don't even want to know how long it will take me to start this thing in -30 weather. Its got a very loud knocking noise in the right rear. I Haven't been able to go to school for a week cause the thing is stuck in my driveway.
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Just bought a mk4 gti 1.8 20v and theres a loud knocking noise coming from the rear and it feels like the back end isn't attached ! Is this a common fault ? And what should i be investigating and fixing b4 the bk end does come off !!?
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WRD Coilovers on my MK4 GTI. I finished my install this evening, and on my first test drive I noticed a knocking noise in the rear. I believe it is the springs sitting a little loose. The front of the car is sitting a bit lower than the rear, so I believe most of the weight is shifted towards the front, therefore making the springs kinda free float? I jacked her up after the drive and kinda gave the springs a wiggle and they have a tiny bit of play, enough to hear the spring kinda TING against the perch. I suppose I'm going to raise the front a bit to try and distribute the weight more evenly.
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So yesterday, I posted this thread [URL] ... and I reprogrammed my keyfob successfully. The keyless entry works now, but I my driver door does not lock. I can't even lock it with the key. The only time it locks, is if I'm riving and it auto-locks, but right after I get out, can't get it to lock again. The red light on the door is flashing, my keyfob works, every other door locks. What I can do? It's a 2004 Jetta Wagon.
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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I recently found out when I open the door to my mk4 jetta it starts to make this loud ticking noise. It happen when I open only three doors the two front and the rear passenger. I have no clue what it is i even asked my mechanic who has been working on volkswagens for years and he said hes never heard anything like it.
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I noticed a clunking noise in the rear of my car (drivers side more specifically). After doing some investigating, I noticed that the bushing in the rear shock absorber is completely shot. It is practically falling out and this is what is causing my noise. My question is, is it possible to be able to just replace the bushing in the shock? If not, I assume I could just replace the rear shocks without having to get a whole new set of coilovers? Can I replace the rear shocks with a different aftermarket brand or do I have to stick with raceland?
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My wife just handed me her 2001 BMW X5(165,000 miles...new engine at 97,000) because they offered only $2000 on a trade-in. It still looks great - better than my Tundra with numerous whiskey blisters delivered by misbehaving cows. The Beemer tires are in good shape BUT the car has developed a loud knocking noise in rear end when you accelerate from a full stop (scares the heck out of you because it sounds like the backend is going to fall off). If you accelerate slowly it doesn't always knock, but other drivers try to run over you. Just had the air levelers repaired. My local mechanic thinks it is the drive shaft but not sure and won't touch it until something breaks or falls off. My question is - if it is the drive shaft and it falls off while driving - is this going to be a dangerous problem? Our mechanic doesn't seem too concerned and just doesn't want to tear it apart to check the noise. If possible (financially) I would like to repair it but will have to drive it to a bigger town to have it done. Or should we just throw in the towel and donate it to NPR?
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More times than not now, when making a sharp left turn and sometimes a left turn in general, a loud popping/clanking/knocking noise comes from the rear of my truck. I can feel it in the steering when it's about to do it. The steering wheel will become stiff when turning left and when I straighten up it will pull to the right (just got the truck aligned so I don't think that's a problem). Rear left tire will spin like its struggling to spin. After all that I can make a hard turn right and "pop" everything will seem to go back to normal. 1999 Silverado Z71 5.3l ....
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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There is a knocking sound in the rear passenger side area. Cannot diagnose the cause, what it could be. I checked the bushings for the anti sway Bar but that was not it.
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I know there's a normal humming/buzzing that occurs when you open the driver's door after the car has been sitting for a while (fuel pump/starter/something -- apparently allows the car to start easily?). I realize that's normal. But I've noticed that over the last few days I'm now getting what sounds like a loud clack (almost as if the seat belt buckle is hitting some other piece of metal). It only happens in conjunction with the humming/buzzing after the car has been sitting for a while. What it might be? I'm trying to avoid going in for service until my 5k or until something major happens. I have a lot of these will come back, "No problem found", so I'd rather not waste my time.
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just notice my interior door lights of driver rear and passenger front aren't working well . Driver front and passenger rear is working.
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Whenever I let off the gas there's a rubbing/knocking noise under the car, the sound will slow down as the car slows down but as soon as i press the gas pedal it starts again, it also doesn't do it if I am stopped and in neutral and rev the engine not sure what this could be?
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I have an 03 Passat and the controls on the drivers door work only on that door, it is seemingly not connected to the other doors. For instance, only the drivers window will operate with the switch, but the others will operate with their individual switches. The door lock will only lock the drivers door as well, but if you use the passenger lock/unlock it works the other 3 doors only as well. The mirror control does not work either.
I checked all the fuses and everything seems fine.
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Okay just installed a newer 24v into my existing 24v VR6 GTI both with 135k. I have heard the motor run before it was pulled and sold to which sounded fine. Upon receiving the motor I put new timing chains, guides, headgasket and new gaskets all around. The timing was right on the mark and I tightened everything up to torque spec and I'm getting this noise which sounds like it's from the timing cover area. A code just popped on which I'm going to scan as soon as I get my hands on one. The car was running great for about 20 minute and I shut it off then turned it back on about 5 minutes later and experiencing these scary noises. I tried pulling each individual coil with no results to get the noise away. What could this be?
[URL] .....
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When I hit unlock on the key fob it unlocks the driver door. If I hit it twice, I still only unlocks the driver door. It won't unlock the other three doors. If I manually unlock the doors with their handles and then hit lock on the fob it locks them all.
When I got the car it worked fine. Two clicks of unlock on the fob unlocked all doors. Recently, I did replace the key fob battery.
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I have a MK4 Jetta, I've owned it for about 1 year. I've never had a problem with the key, but in the last few days, it only opens the driver door? No matter how many times I hit the button it won't unlock the rest of the doors?
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I cannot control the windows, locks, trunk or gas release from my 2001 Aurora. The fuses are under the back seat, which I took out. I checked the Drivers door module and the fuse is fine.
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Top mount noise? I'm starting to get a rumbling/knocking noise on my front driver's side but only at certain speeds (most noticeable 25-40 mph) and on certain roads. Even smooth ones.
It's definitely not a groan or squeak. It almost sounds like the wheel is rubbing on something but the frequency/pitch doesn't change with speed.
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2001 vr6 manual... I have a popping noise that comes from my suspension. it is in the front, and it has gradually gotten worse over the last month or so. It used to happen when i back out of my drive way only, but now it happens when accelerating from a stop, quickly braking or turning at low speeds. Recently its getting worse and i can start to feel it in my steering wheel sometimes. It doesn't feel like a wheel bearing. Is it bushings? Tie rod? CV Joints? Strut Mount?
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