Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Drip Spots Under Car - Condensation From The A/C System?
Jul 21, 2014
I have noticed that I have been getting some drip spots under my car whenever I am parked. This has only started happening in the summer. I got under there and dabbed my finger in the discharge and found it to be odorless, clear, and not viscous. Basically, I think it is just water. Could this just be condensation from the A/C system? It has been dripping under the passenger side right under the firewall.
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I just got my passat about 5 months ago and very recently had my coolant flushed and never used my A/C up until now. I'm just curious...am I supposed to be seeing it drip water after I turn my car off? I was expecting to have a puddle of water under my car after using it a couple times but there's nothing there. I don't think my evaporation hose is clogged because there's no water on my passenger side carpet.
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New to Hyundai, bought a 08 Santa Fe Ltd AWD. My first of three daughters just got her license and I decided to part ways with my BMW 530 for something more practical. That was a difficult day. So far, I'm really happy with the Fe and my daughter loves it, too.
Question: After driving, while car is parked in driveway, water will drip from underneath car for like an hour after the car has been turned off. I have collected some of it in a pan and it is crystal clear water, not any type of fluid. Now, this seems to be completely normal drip you'd seem from any car that has its AC on in the summer but this happens when the AC is NOT being used and temp is still in the 40s - 50s. The drip is located approx under the front passenger floor board. I suppose its good that whatever it is, it is draining away and not collecting and causing corrosion but just thought I'd ask the forum. Is this normal? Any other Fe owners notice this drip?
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So i noticed i am leaking oil, not much but enought that i will have to top it up before the next oil change. The drip comes from the drain bolt, and drips off the bottom of the oil pan right under it. I have replaced the bolt and it still continues to leak. What could be the cause of this?
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My Gti has been sitting in my driveway unused for a couple months now. The condensation in it has been unusually heavy when parked. The carpet is dry, doesn't smell damp inside, no coolant smell. Windshield was replaced 2year ago never had a prob with it so idk if it's that that's leaking, but what would the signs of that be? But what I really think it could be is that my recirculating flap is stuck closed. Could that be it?
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I have water in my Jetta's tail lights and its really annoying. I just had them both out on the weekend and checked out the foam gaskets and they were both fine but i replaced them with an older pair I had that looked in even better shape but basically the same condition...
Rained pretty hard last night and now there is like more water in them then before... I made sure I tightened them down good because they were not that tight when I originally took them off.
There is water condensation in my spare tire well and making my carpet wet and starting to fog up my rear windows..
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I have some condensation forming on the inside of the plastic cover over the HSI. Is there a way to remove the plastic cover to dry it off?
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I have an 09 f350 lariat with the factory 6 disc, sync system. Problem is the sunroof drain tube on the right front kinked and allowed water to overflow the drip tray on the sunroof and down the "A" pillar. The water then dripped onto the inertia fuel pump switch and then onto the sync module. I disassembled the module to dry and coat the circuit board with dielectric spray but one of the transistors is corroded and therefore the module is rendered useless. I have contacted the ford dealer for replacement module but no luck, even with the original part number on the sync module, or as ford calls it " Accessory Protocol Interface Module" My question is: can I get a module from another vehicle.
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I washed the R this past weekend and noticed that hey are covering my car from front to back, and even on the glass. I am looking to perform this work myself.
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I'm trying to delete the EVAP system on my 24v to clean up the bay. I tested the purge valve and it comes up as 25ohms so i was wondering if I could remove it and wire in a resistor to the connector in order to trick the car into thinking that it was still there.
Next question is in the picture listed below, would i be able to cap off # 11 and where the lines go into the intake manifold or would i have to delete the hoses going to #10 and #13 as well?
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I'm getting a remote start system for Christmas and I'm looking at how to do the install myself. I know you need a bypass and an extra programmed key for the system to work. This is my problem, My car only came with one switchblade key so I would have to get one made. Basically if I do an immo defeat on my ecu which is tuned (not sure which company a po did it), will I be able to do the remote start without having to use a bypass and spare. Essentially if I do an immo defeat, in order to start the car they key would not have to be programmed, just laser cut, correct? Is it possible to do an immo defeat with vagcom or do I have to get a tuning company to do it. The car is an 01' gti AWW for reference. I'm planning on going gonzo stage 2+ in the Spring so I'm thinking about just waiting until then and getting the immo defeated with that, if it works with the remote start.
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So I have a 12v vr6 jetta and I really want a better exhaust with a nice clean and loud growl. My friend has a mk5 with a full Apr exhaust that sounds absolutely amazing and I want it to sound like that and I am willing to change my rear valance to the later mk4 jetta style if needed.
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Mk4 GTI 1.8BT 034 Standalone Issues. I'm working on trying to finish up my big turbo project. I am running 034 iic standalone system. I started the car and got it to idle but timing seems off and I know I have an exhaust manifold leak. How to alter the timing and such so I can get this thing running.
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About two weeks ago I changed the haldex fluid at 61K. I just drained the fluid and then filled it with the new stuff from the tube. I did not open the check plug. (I changed the fluid and filter at 40k and didn't open the check plug then either.)
Early this week I noticed a wet spot on the garage floor. There was a fluid drip coming out of the rubber stopper near the rear driver side jacking point. Last night I pulled the rubber plug and cleaned the fluid residue as much as possible. Today, I drove the car to work and put a clean white frisbee under the car to catch any drips. There were just a few drips in the frisbee at the end of the day. I compared the drip to the haldex fluid that was drained out a couple of weeks ago. It appears to be the same, but I'm not sure.
I'm dreading what it might mean if the haldex system is leaking, and I don't want to drive the car with low fluid. So I jacked the car up on all four corners, opened the check plug and a 1-2 ounces of fluid drizzled out. From what I can tell by the wet spots on the garage floor, less than an ounce has dripped out so far. (Also, I started the car and put it into 1st gear and all four wheels spun...so at least I know the haldex is still working.)
If the system had too much fluid, could it have blown a seal someplace..
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so the car was taken to the dealer TWICE for the exact same symptoms. Few drops of oil on garage floor after day of driving and sitting overnight. The first time they retorqued the drain plug which was loose and the second time they retorqued the oil pan bolts, which were loose. There was some residual oil on the undercarriage tray after the first time that they cleaned off the second time. But today I noticed the small holes in the undercarriage tray on the passenger side of vehicle to be wet with oil substance, and a drop of oil on the floor. The car has 2700 miles and had proper break in.
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So the car broke down on my wife while on the way to work again. This time the coolant is completely drained from the system. It is all over inside the engine compartment so it's impossible to tell where the leak actually is. Within the last year we have replaced the pump and thermostat so I am going on the assumption that neither of those are an issue at this point.
Although I figure a stuck Tstat might cause too much pressure to build up and blow a line. Ill cross that bridge when the time comes. I also assume there should be nothing wrong with just putting water in there just to find the leak and then of course draining and putting the proper fluids in. Is this a wise course of action to take? You never know with these German things. I would of course use the same type of water that is used to mix with the coolant already.
My wife also stated that she did not see any smoke coming out of the tailpipe and only the engine. This means the engine itself should be safe and no gasket blew inside.
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Like the title states, I've got P2181 (coolant system performance) CEL on again. I've had this code before and finally had everything serviced. It was off for 5k miles! I've spent a lot of time diagnosing this on the previous occurrences, and was 99% certain it was the thermostat due to the coolant temp dropping a notch or so when engine braking* on the interstate for more than a few seconds.
The current issue is mainly that the car will not heat up quite as fast, but it will not go lower from engine braking for a good chunk of time. I'm getting fairly poor MPG compared to what I was getting a month or two ago. The major changes are winter fuel blends and winter tires, which I'm sure affect the MPG a little, but I would hope not as much as I am seeing. Old average was around 27mpg combined and 30 or so for mostly highway, now I'm getting 24 tops. This is likely due to engine temps not being up to allow for most efficient fuel burning.
First plan is to change the CTS and see if that will fix it. If the code comes back after that, I'll have to check the thermostat and coolant mixture, but I wouldn't expect it to last only 5k miles.
Current: 105k
Thermostat and coolant changed at 100k
Water pump at 80k
CTS sometime around 70k
Engine braking lowering temp due to no fuel being ignited and coolant still circulating through the system if thermostat open.
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Alrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
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Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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My car shudders (headlights flicker, dash lights flicker, and car feels like it's choking/almost stalling) when I sit at an idle. Today it got super bad and the abs light flickered on and off when ever it would "shudder".
Live in so-cal where we just had heavy rain the last 2 days so I'm thinking it may be a wet ground somewhere but I'm not an electrician so I wouldn't know for sure.
Car info: 2.0 golf
Nothing done to it except straight pipe and intake...
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