Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Downpipe Stud Broken And Code Is P0420?
Jan 23, 2016
So I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
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I keep getting the error code P0420. Cat below threshold.
I have replace both the front and rear O2 sensors and we reset the check engine light. While driving through the cycles to reset the sensors for them to be ready for DEQ, the check engine light came on again.
I am about ready to buy the Cat Converter, but it is really expensive and if there are any other things that I can try before replacing the Cat I would like to try that first. Any other issues associated with that code, or should I just replace the Cat Converter as my next step.
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MK4 GTi - My check engine light came on a few days ago and when I checked it, it pulled code P0420.
Just this morning, the check engine light went away.
Is this a common issue? Or should I go get it checked just in case?
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I just bought a 03 2.0 and ive been trying to fix her back up, she is almost there, just waiting on my first gear getter from diesel geeks and trying to figure out why these codes (p0420 and p0141) keep coming back on. Originally it was just a p0420 code so i took out the upstream sensor and cleaned it, then i took out the backstream and after examining it figured it should be replaced.
I went and bought a new one and replaced it, within the next 2 days the check engine light came back on throwing the original p0420 code along with p0141 this time. So i took out the new down stream 02 sensor and took it back to autozone and they swapped it out with a new one for me free of charge. So i put the newest 02 sensor in and then within 2 days, both codes p0420 & p0141 came back on. Two 02 sensor heating wires being bad i feel is a pretty slim chance. What is possibly the cause for these two codes repeatedly being thrown?
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2001 Jetta 2.0, manual trans
I've been having problems with intermittent P0420 cat below efficiency code. Everything else is fine, no codes, runs great. I tried spacing the post cat sensor back w/ extender bung (after replacing post cat sensor..) and still get the code. I don't hear any rattling or anything to make me think cat is bad physically. I was told by dealer that a code update might resolve for $200 - which got me thinking that that if that was so, it should should be a problem which Feds should be aware.
I searched safercar.gov and found this NHTSA ID Number: 10054864
It's a service bulletin saying that VW made the limits too sensitive and it seems there was a customer satisfaction campaign to update code - pdf on site CSC-10054864-8736
It says:
May 2007
Subject: Emissions Service Action N7
1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI with VR6 Engine
Update Electronic Control Module (ECM) Software for Catalytic Converter Monitoring System Dear Volkswagen Owner: We are writing to inform you of an emissions service action on some 1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI VR6 engine vehicles. Our records show that you are the owner of one of these vehicles.
What Is The Problem? The electronic control module (ECM) software for the catalytic converter monitoring system is too sensitive. This can cause the MIL to come on, and some vehicles may exceed Federal and/or California emissions standards. Also, in some cases this leads to unnecessary catalytic converter replacement. What Will Volkswagen Do? Dealers will update the ECM software.
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I bought my Jetta almost a year ago, and I've been constantly replacing parts. Unfortunately, my engine misfired twice and the CEL has come on for P0420 which is inefficient catalyst. This is the only code being thrown. I've cleared it like 10 times, but it keeps popping up.
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On my 2002 (AVH) 2.0L 4cyl Jetta I have a persistent P0420 error code: "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold"
I changed the oil, cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor, replaced the coolant, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor. But it's still showing up.
OBDII says it could still be:
A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S)
Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe
Retarded spark timing
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings
Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure
Cylinder misfire Oil contamination
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when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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2003 Golf GTI Turbo... New to VW, I'm a jeep guy and bought a GTI for my wife to try rally cross in. It had some problems that I knew about when I bought it, had to replace CV shafts, control arms, fix broken trans mount, etc. I'm on to the last piece of the puzzle now.
The expansion joint on the downpipe from the turbo is basically exploded. Not a big deal, just buy a new downpipe and biky everything together right? Not so much. Bought one the other day, it showed up and has 3 bolts on turbo side, mine has 4.
When I look at the other stock turbo downpipes, it looks like they have 3 bolts as well. What's going on? Did the previous owner put a different turbo on this? I just need the damn downpipe, but can't figure out which one to order.
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I just had a new downpipe installed and now I am getting a horrible scrapping noise when coming off a dead stop. I got under the car and looks like the downpipe is touching subframe heat shield. My question is should i take it back and have them make some clearance or is there a quicker solution. New downpipe and subframe heat shield.
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2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
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This is for a Pontiac Vibe. I broke one of the bolts that connects the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Need to get some type of nut/bolt/spring that I could use to fix it. The bolt is sticking out of the flange about 3/4" if I had a long nut to screw onto that?...........
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I went to a big box store to have new tires put on the rear of my 2002 Nissan Altima. They told me I had a stud broken from the inside of the wheel. The lug nut is still attached, and they can't get the wheel off. Both the stud and the nut turn freely within the socket. Is there any way to get this off without having to pay the $70 a tire place will charge me to fix it? I don't know how long its been like this. I currently have three new tires and one old.
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I have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
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I recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
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I broke one of my rear studs off today when I was putting my wheel back on. The rest seem okay, but I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace them? Is it as simple as hammering the broken one out and replacing it with a new one? I don't have to take the drum off, right?
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I broke one of the wheel/hub studs on my 2006 Ford Focus, when I tried to take the wheel off. So, this car lived through 7 winters in Boston metropolitan area, and it has about 90,000 miles on it.
I bought the car used last summer, so I don't know what the previous owner did, but I have always torqued my wheels since I bought it. But one of them broke off anyway, when I tried to take the wheel off. I took off the brake caliper and the disc to see the condition of the broken stud. The hub and the stud seemed to have rusted together. I recently moved from California via Oregon, so I am not used to seeing a lot of rust on anything. So, I can't tell whether that is a lot of rust or just normal run-of-the-mill rust I shouldn't have to worry too much about.
I checked online and found that if a bolt/stud is rusted, and if I cannot get it loose by banging it with a hammer, I should torch it and let it cool before trying to loosen it again.
I would like to hear some anecdotes about loosening wheel studs. I went to Harbor Freight today to get a hammer. One guy told me I should get the 8 pounder with a long handle (looked to be 3 feet or longer), so it will be easier to aim and provide steady force. He said it would be like putting a golf ball. I was also looking to get a torch, and he said that I need to heat it until it glowed, so small propane bottle torch would not be enough. But he said for a relatively newer car like mine, a few taps with an 8-pound sledge hammer should be enough.
I am also concerned that I might end up breaking more stuff and have to replace the entire hub, which would be a costly proposition. How much would it cost if I took it to a mechanic?
Also, seeing that some of the other nuts didn't go in smoothly, would it do any good to replace all the lug nuts?
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I have the CBFA motor, and i am getting getting the p0420 error code. I have read two related threads here and here about p0420 codes and different downpipes. It seems the AWE and Nuespeed seem to be better for getting around CEL without additional flashes. I currently have purchased and installed one RAI straight O2 spacer (after the cat) and have tried both the medium and smallest insert but after clearing the CEL it has returned both times with the same code. Do i need two O2 spacers, one installed with the smallest insert and another with a different size? Trying to make sense of all the posts.
I am unitronic stage 1, before going stage two i want to have the CEL under control so i can downgrade the flash and not trip CEL for smog.
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I've had both the engine and DSG flash from UM for over a year. The other day I got a cel and a p0420 code. I still have stock dp and oem cats (only Borla cat back). I know the cats are still under warranty (8years 80,000mile). My question is if I bring the car to the dealership for cat warranty will they be able to detect the um flash and use it against me to fix the cat problem?
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I just picked up a MK4 gls 1.8t jetta for a project car.... I wanted to keep the miles off my MK6 gti.... The jetta has 92k miles and the first thing I had done was the timing belt service done as well as a new alternator clutch pulley and oil change... 1 day after I got the car i was driving to work and the CEL came on took it to auto parts store... 2 codes came up
P0420: catalyst system. efficiency below threshold bank1
P2181 cooling system performance
I have the green sensor and I think its time to change the thermostat... My question is is it just a coincidence that both codes came up at the same time or is i possible it is a sign for something else... i just had the thermostat changed 10 min ago...CEL light is gone so i will wait to see if the cat code comes back.
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Does this mean the DPF is shot? I believe its integral with the cat. whats worth checking first?
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