so it started like a month ago my door light would occasionally come on for no reason now it's to the point where my door light is always on and it constantly dings, i know its the door lock module but is there any way to tell which door? it might be the trunk and also is there a way to temporarily fix it soi don't drive my car into a tree from being so annoyed.
View 4 RepliesAfter being all over the map, MK4 to MK5 to MK6 to Corrado to MK2 to MK6 and now back to the MK4 I am back! Long ago, almost 10 years I built a 2001 GTI VR6 turbo that I absolutely loved, but college funds forced that sale. Driving just about everything I have always wanted another 12v to play with, but they are getting harder to find that are not totally molested.
Anyways, I came across a 2001 Jetta VR6, one owner car, 100% un touched, all maintenance records, and only 79,000 miles! I had to buy it. Only a couple minor dings in the passenger door I will mend out down the road, otherwise the car is darn near mint condition.
Engine Plans:
Kinetic Manifold
Precision 6262 T4 .81
C2 # 630cc fueling
9:1
Flipside Short runner
FX400
Interior:
Full R32 seating, steering wheel, pedals (I saved this in storage in case I were to buy another MK4, glad I did!)
Maybe suede headliner/pillars
Exterior:
Bora-R front, GLI side skirts, Votex rear if I can find a nice OEM one somewhere
Undecided on Brakes/wheels/suspension, I want the car drivable, to go enjoy some canyon ripping up here in the Rocky Mountains. This car will not be slammed down just to destroy the geometry and make for a poor handling car while ruining fenders and body work
Anyways, some quick pictures for me to reference where it all started, nothing special, again only 79k on the ODO, she is CLEAN
I started the car one morning after it snowed. the red "BRAKE" light is constantly on and while the car is moving it beeps which is extremely annoying.. I have tried:
-Topping off brake fluid
- another ebrake sensor (under the center console)
- brake pads have plenty of meat on them
- brake light are working
Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
View 9 RepliesI've had cars that will 'ding' if you try to lock the door while the lights are on, key is in the ignition, etc so I'm familiar with the sound. My 98 'dings' at me when I try to lock the door by using the button on the door. I can't find any reason behind it, no lights on, keys out, etc.
View 3 RepliesIt only does it when I get in. It dings 1 time. It just started this. Its like if you left the lights on or keys in. But none of that is true. I get out every night and lock door with the remote. Then in morning I unlock and get in, as soon as I open the door "ding". Then it stops, only 1 ding..
I know the car is trying to tell me something, BUT what???
The door lock light will flash constantly when are locked, it don't matter how i lock the doors e.g., key fob, front doors or rear door. i have verified that all doors are locked and the car beeps once when i lock the doors. how can i turn the door lock light off, permanently if need be.
View 2 RepliesI've decided the first issue w/ my new-to-me jetta I want to focus on is the cooling fan constantly running. I suspect this is potentially related to the temp gauge not reading anything, which I suspect might be because of the coolant temp sensor.
So basically, when I turn the key to on (I'm pretty sure it's on, not start), one of the cooling can comes on. It's the fan on the right side as if you are sitting in the driver seat. I've been looking at the wiring diagram for this issue as well, and the only other thing I can think of that isn't a computer involving issue would be the thermo switch. But it seems like both fans should be coming on in that case, and it's definitely only the one fan that is coming on.
I bought a certified pre-owned VW Jetta 2012 in August of 2013 that had 4,500k miles on it.. I currently have 60,000 miles on it. (I drive a ton)... but ever since I bought it my engine makes this jolting feeling when I slow down. it comes and goes and gets worse when I am due for an oil change. I have taken it to the dealer several times about this issue and they say that german engineering...I think differently. My engine light constantly comes on and my problem is still not fixed. What the issue is??? I am clueless about cars.
View 12 RepliesI just recently replaced all timing chains on a 2000 VR6 jetta, all is working great but now I have an ABS, traction control on and ebrake on (flashing) constantly. Did I miss a ground somewhere? the only one I know of was from battery
View 3 RepliesNow I've had this constant problem with this code that I just cannot get rid of. I've read many threads on here but nothing seems to be working. I currently am on the third maf that I've been able to test out, still throws the code. Connector is all clean, nothing wrong there. It is clean every time I just can't figure it out.
View 3 Replies2000 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine with 220k miles, recently started intermittently stalling (about 15-20 minutes into my trip) while driving mostly on city streets but has also stalled on the freeway at 65mph. Fuel level is always > half full, verified against my tripometer. When it stalls, engine completely cuts off, all dashboard lights are all lit, and no power steering.
I have VCDS but know only enough to be dangerous My mechanic has no answers and I don't want to randomly throw new parts at this the car, hoping to resolve the problem. It's becoming seriously dangerous to drive, knowing it will die at least once on every trip. What's the chance the oxygen sensors need to be replaced ?
Symptoms
(1) Most of the time the engine just turns off, as if I turned off the ignition. Other times, I can catch the engine RPMs drop to ~300 and just hit the gas, which sometimes saves car from stalling.
(2) Immediately after it stalls, there is is rotten egg smell.
(3) Once stalled, the engine won't start back up again for at least 5 minutes. (turns over, but doesn't start)
(4) Confirmed error codes from VDCS: misfires on all cylinders and random
(5) Took it to my mechanic for diagnosis. They were unable to duplicate on a road test. Smoke test showed no vacuum leaks, road test monitoring data did not capture any additional faults, and found no faults running it heat soaked and parked. They captured sensor signal data and found no abnormal patterns. They feel replacing the O2 sensors is an expensive guess.
(6) Replaced the crankshaft position sensor after the car would not start at all, one morning. (discovered that the CPS tested at a faulty ~50k ohms). Bought a new one, installed it and it turned over immediately but the stall issue continues)
Fault Codes
Code:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-10 - No Activity - Intermittent
seen separately
Code:
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 35-10 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
Note that I have been ignoring the ABS-related errors for 4+ years. (not a concern or priority). On the short list are ignition coil or crankshaft sensor. Both of which require my mechanic to replace, I think.
So in my 05 gti , the door ajar light stays on and when it does go off it will randomly blink ! I'm guessing there must be a loose connection somewhere ? Also all of a sudden my alarm will randomly go off . It's annoying . I'm not sure how to fix it .
View 1 RepliesMy door open light is on all the time. Doors are closed and no interior lights on.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 20k+ miles on it. Purchased it about a week ago & had no issues until about now. About an hour ago, my check engine light came on & air from the driver side right vent started blowing even though the fan is off. What the issue might be? Also, my fuel door constantly pops open by itself. While driving, when I close my doors, and when I close my trunk it always pops open. Is there any way to fix this type of issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 GTI 1.8T with the AWP engine and tiptronic. There is a fuse in the picture below that blows as soon as the car is started. It is located next to the brake booster on the firewall. It does not blow when the ignition is turned on, just when the engine actually starts. I'm not throwing a check engine light, pulling a scanner code or noticing any of my electronics not working. I took a 20 AMP fuse out and replaced with another 20.....and have since blown 5 of them trying to diagnose the problem.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 Chev Avalanche. Several times recently my check engine light comes on, the truck dings 3 times at me and a dash script tells me to tighten my fuel cap. I do and the light goes out within a few hours or the next day. I have changed fuel caps twice. This week the light came on, has not gone off and at least 3 time it has told me to tighten the fuel cap which I have done.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx that randomly dings and shows me the battery light.
It usually happens when going uphill or during really hard accelerations.
It is also showing OBDII code P0621.
The car has no other issues. Always starts, always runs well.
What causes this problem? Where should I start looking? I'm thinking it's probably a bad connection somewhere.
I recently got a mk6 Gti and was wondering, if I put new wheels on it will the tire pressure light be on constantly? And is there something I can do to make the new wheels compatible with the pressure monitor system?
View 13 RepliesI was driving home from work on Tuesday and I saw a message flash across the MFD saying that I needed to check coolant and consult owner's manual. Also the coolant light was constantly flashing. I was quarter mile from my house so I just drove home, checking the temp to make sure it was ok. I got home and opened the hood to see no coolant in the reservoir, but there was some in the hose. I was like "ok cool I just bought this car 3 months ago but not a big deal." I also looked on the ground under my car quickly and there wasn't a leak. I happen to live about 500' from a VW dealership so called them up and they said bring it over.
When I got there the SA came out and took a look and said to give him 5 to fill it up and I'd be on my way. As I'm waiting in the lounge, I notice a puddle on the ground under my car. I told him about it and he confirmed coolant leak. But because I didn't buy the car from them, they wouldn't give me a loaner, so I had them fill it up and I took a ride to where I bought the car (30 mins away). Now I'm driving a new Jetta. I got the call from Balise yesterday (the dealership I bought it from) and they said my radiator core was defective internally, they overnighted a part and they started fixing it yesterday morning. Since it's such an involved job, only a master tech can do it and there might not be one there today (which I have to check on around noon) so I might not get it back until Tuesday. But I really can't complain (other than the fact that it's a brand new car), I have a car to drive and it's being fixed properly.
It probably was that damn lowerthanzimmy sticker. I realize defective parts are made, they can't catch all of them before they're installed.