Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Door Latches But Not Fully Closed
Sep 11, 2014
My 2 door Golf has an issue.
Door closes, latches, door switch is activated (no chime, no interior lights on, all seems normal.)
From the outside it is not sitting flush to the body. From the inside I can hear a lot of road noise.
I inspected the hinges, weather stripping, door jamb, no obvious problems. I have slammed the door and pressed very firmly. At best I can get it closed, but I can pull it back 'open' very easily.
Sounds like I have a faulty door latch but need to confirm this before I start tearing into it??
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Are MK4, MK5, and New Beetles door latches interchangeable?
Looking at replacing my front passenger side latch.
The Mk4 part number is: 3B1837016CF.
The Mk5 and all New Beetles part number is: 3B1837016CG, the only difference being the G at the end.
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I noticed today that my hood is not actually latched in the fully closed position - Hood sits like it's closed, but I can simply lift it up to the popped position without pulling the hood release. Secondary latch is still fine so it stays closed, but I'm in a bind:
So first question -If I cannot fix it, is it safe to drive as is 3.5 hours back home?
Second question - is there a way to get it to latch even temporarily, keeping in mind that the only tools I have are standard screwdrivers and a pair of pliers?
Latch appears to be functioning fine and I can lock a screwdriver in it no problem. I read some threads implying the latch might need to be raised, but as far as I can tell it's already positioned all the way up.
Pictures .....
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My son has been offered a '99 Honda Passport by his Grandmother. All four outside door latches are non-functional.
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I have found the source of the problem....although it was not like this before....when the windows are fully closed and up....the noise happens ...when they are down...the noise is totally gone...what is up ?
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I just shaved my hatch on my gti I am using a gas door popper to open the hatch and it works good my question is that when the hatch is closed I have the light on the dash saying the hatch is open how do I get rid of it what do I have to do.
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Have a sunroof that rattles when closed while going over bumps? I use my fingers to lift up on it and its barely budging, also floors are soaked....
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When I close the passenger door with the window down the glass of the window makes a noise like it is hitting metal. The noise is the loudest when the window is all the way down and becomes less loud gradually the further the window is up when the door is closed. It does not make the noise at all when the window is all the way up.
Found a few websites that illustrates how to remove the door panel but that seems to give you access to the window motor not the window itself.
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Just picked up my 2012 GTI this morning and noticed the little door on the console storage tray (under the a/c controls) wont stay closed. Any tricks I should know about to close it? Or should I just not worry about it and leave it open....
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So after the long saga of trying to get my 03gti VR6 running, I have come across the STRANGEST behavior I have ever seen in a car. Here's a little background. Two weeks ago driving in a snowstorm my car started sputtering and then died. Left me stranded on the side of the road. Towed it to my buddies house (he's a master tech for Lexus) and tried to figure out what was going on. It wasn't throwing any codes. I replaced the fuel pump relay and that didn't fix anything. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming when I opened the door. So I replaced the fuel pump. Now it primes when you open the door. Got it started, but it wouldn't stay running for more than 10 seconds, it was acting like it was running out of gas. Even tried disconnectig the battery and touched the pos and neg together. Still to no avail.
After a week of trying to figure it out, I tried starting it with the door closed. Now the damn thing runs. BUT. Here's the strange thing. It will only run if the drivers door is closed. If you open the door, it kills the power to the fuel pump. If you leave the door open, it'll eventually die after roughly 10'secs. If you get out and close the door, it'll stay running. I'm guessing when you close the door it starts sending power to the fuel pump again. Everything else works. Power windows, door locks, mirrors, ect. The local vw shop in town said it might be a bad door switch or the CCM. But the lights come on when you open the door and go off when you shut it. Fuel pump primes when you open the door.
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I just installed my brand new coil overs. I went to drop the car from the jack and as it lowered I noticed my strut mount fully popped out of the strut mount housing. I can't even close my hood. Did I do something wrong?
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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This seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
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The door ejar light stays on, on my moms 02 passat. I checked the latch to see if it opens and closes all the way, the light is still on when the door is closed all the way (it sits flush with the rear door) and there is a small whistle once in a while when driving. and sometimes, she says, the luggage compartment light comes on like the trunk is open but its closed.
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Just replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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So my partner got out of the car today and SLAMMED the door behind him (something I've gotten after him about many many times!) This time though the seatbelt managed to get stuck between the door. This has caused a nick on the inside door panel thingy (close to where the latch is) obviously this cannot be seen unless you open the door and look at it. Is there any action I should take for this or just leave it alone?
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So I was heading to the airport and needed gas and was in a bit of a hurry to get my flight. I pressed on the gas door as usual expecting it to pop open a bit it didn't! It only pressed in more but did not pop out. I started to panic as I was low on gas and did not have a lot of time to get my flight. I looked in the trunk for some type of emergency release but did not see anything.
I locked and unlocked my door a few times in the hopes it would release somehow but it did not change and I did not notice the usual click from the gas door area. Finally I was able to force the door open with my fingers and get gas. Now when closing the door again it does not sit flush but is sitting in a slightly open position. I'm scared to mess with it more in case it locks shut again and I can't get gas.
I'm shocked this part would stop working the car is only two years old, 2013 with luxury package.
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I have a door closed indicator that is malfunctioning. The rub is I am leaving for a trip tomorrow and will be over warranty by the time I return. I have 49600 miles now and will add 800 over the WE. I have call VWOA and they are non-committal as to whether they will cover or not. I can show the dealer but they will not be able to look at until next week.
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