Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Door Ajar Light Stayed On - Can't Figure Which Door Open?
Jan 14, 2015
So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
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Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
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My Dome lights don't work when you open the door. I can manually turn them on though. Also door ajar light is on. Are these issues caused by the door latch switch? Also have no fog lights I replaced the switch and bulbs. I have a 2003 F250.....
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The door ajar symbol came on when I started my car after work, I checked all the doors, trunk and hood and all were closed correctly. It didn't go off and I kept driving, as I was driving it would go on and off intermittently and stay on for brief periods of time. None of the interior lights go on when this occurs. I have manual locks, no central no power.
It did rain heavy yesterday, and a bit today, if the front doors are like the back (metal piece on door slides into slot on car to ensure it is closed. Could it be a water issue? I looked on my front doors and don't see the metal piece like the back, for some reason I suspect it is the driver door causing issue. The driver door is the only door I have taken the plastic panel off, but I doubt I messed anything up and that its even related to this with manual locking.
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My door open light is on all the time. Doors are closed and no interior lights on.
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Electrical issue that I have been unable to resolve following other threads on here. Door ajar (to turn off radio and turn on interior lights) not functioning. My son has to lock the driver door from the outside when exiting to turn off radio. Alarm does sound and red light starts flashing indicating that part is functioning. Same thing when entering vehicle, the interior lights do not come on when opening the door. All other window switches and door locks function from driver door panel, except right rear door lock does not, he has to unlock by using the interior handle. Last one but unsure if related is the anti-slip (ASR) dummy light stays on in the instrument cluster, and doesn't change when pushing the button. I have gone through the driver door switch, cleaned/lubed/etc, but no luck. If it's a ground issue, where should I concentrate our efforts?
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Having issues with the rear tailgate door unlocking. Seems like mine on occasion is only making a noise but not unlocking completely and showing the door ajar light with the beep. When it happens, its a pain to get it to stop and close completely, or even open. I have to push hard on the door to get it to stop.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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It was working fine then I drove on a 2 hour highway trip and now it will not open. This is the Xtra cab where you open the front door and then the rear from the inside. The door ajar switch is out. I suspect one of the latches is stuck. There is one on the top and one on the bottom of the door.
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My driver door got stuck, couldn't open from the outside but could open from inside. I went and read a few forums and they told me to adjust the plastic lug that has a wire connected to it that is attached to the module. It might be tight so I had to loosen it a bit, In the process it fell inside the door and not only did it not fix the problem but I cant seem to find any other way to get inside to find it.
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My left side, rear door I have to pull the handle two times to open the door.
1st time: opens 1/4 inch
2nd time: fully opens
I checked the problem a bit, saw the same problem on a MKV where they opened the handle and they had to adjust a little thingy ?
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So I noticed my door wouldn't open from the outside when my friend was trying to get in the backseat. It opened from the inside, and like an idiot I turned the child safety lock. So now the door will not open from the inside or the outside.
Is there any possible way I can get to the cable to get the door open from the interior or exterior?? Can I take the door panel off without the door being open?? It's a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8t...
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After sorting out a bunch of other things and basically rebuilding my engine, I'm down to 1 pesky problem. My engine won't run if the driver door is open...
With the door closed and engine on, its great. AFRs are high 13s to mid 14s, 19-ish vac, smooth and steady idle. But when I open the driver door the engine cuts off. I can pull the lever and hold the door close, its fine. When I release the door and it gets past a certain point, the engine stops.
I get a bunch of short to ground codes BUT only after scanning after the engine cuts off via the door. If I clear them and scan it before said occurrence, I only get an engine speed sensor code.
I can roll the windows up and down, door locks, mirrors, passenger door, sun roof, open the hatch, hood and gas door with killing the engine. Its ONLY when I open the driver door...
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I finally got rid of my 2.0 and upgraded to the Vr6 5-speed. The other day my driver side rear door just came open. I tried closing it but it just bounce back open. I tried those methods of YouTube to see if that works but still nothing. Now i had to tie my door shut and experience my car not being locked completely. My alarm would go off and everytime i drive my car, i have to deal with that annoying ding the car makes when the doors are open.
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I hit a pillar with the driver side door and it bent a bit and now the open door alarm stays on while I drive and its even worse when the lights are turned on, how do I disconnect the door open alarm?
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when unlocking the car, half of the time the passenger front and back door do not open from the outside even though the little door opening/closing pin has jumped up into the open position. then i need to give the door a good push near the lock , i can hear a little click and then the door opens.
how to fix this?
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I am having issues with the door lock module.
I cannot open it with the remote or manually with the key. So i took the whole door apart and took out the actuator module thing and pulled it apart and checked all switches and solder joints and fixed them all and put back together to test and it still doesn't work. It doesn't seem like there is any power going to the module. I just plugged in the connector into the module and tried to test it and nothing.
I activate the micro switch for the door and the interior lights don't go on or off. They are off. Also when i put the key in ignition there is no noise and turning headlights on there is no noise. The last time i was working on the car was when everything was working and that was last Saturday. I opened the hood and shut the door and it locked itself but when i shut the hood the alarm went off and was a solid noise not a chirp or pulsation alarm noise. So i hit the unlock button on my remote and that fixed it.
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Mk IV Jetta. Central locking works fine. All other CCM functions are fine. Replaced CCM recently serial numbers match. When I hit the switch on the door nothing at all happens. When I use the key button the lights flash twice but no other activity. No broken wires between the body and the trunk lid. Actuator works when tested with a 9v battery.
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